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Old 08-02-2015, 03:52 PM   #85
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You may not notice the difference between OEM height and using a lift kit, but you aren't riding in the trailer to tell, and anyway, it is too subjective to know (if you were riding in the trailer before and after). Of course, you could ride in the trailer to make a judgment, even though you would be violating laws in probably every state and province.

And most of the time, it wouldn't make a difference. But I remember driving in a snowstorm on I-70 in the Colorado plains with a 40 mph crosswind and the trailer never wavered while big trucks were parked on the shoulder because they couldn't drive in the weather. If the trailer were several inches higher, maybe it would have made a nasty difference. No way to know that without a testing lab doing the testing, but simple physics says higher means a higher center of gravity, thus it is easier for the trailer to tip and sway.

In the realm of silliness, you could lift the trailer so it was over the truck and bolt it to the truck roof—then the whole thing could tip over until you went (partially) under a bridge. And, not so good for the truck suspension. Silly, yes, but think about how tippy a truck with trailer bolted to the roof—about 16' or more in the air. You know that would be awful, but lifting the trailer several inches does the same thing, but less, much less, though it still increases potential problems. Or, think of how tippy you would be if your head weighed 75 lbs. (the visual on that is not appealing, but gives definition to the term, "he's got a big head").

Gene
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:15 PM   #86
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Going from stock 15" tires and wheels on the Classic to the 16" Michelin and SenDel wheels raised it just over a half inch.

Going from stock 14" tires and wheels to the same 15" Michelins I installed on our 25FB along with the same appearance as the Classic wheels and correct bolt pattern and wheel size 15" SenDel wheels brought the 23D to the same elevation as the 25FB.

The same Hensley and Mercedes were used on the 23D with no elevation adjustments required.

It stands to reason that turning the trailing arm suspension downtown to 38 from 23 would require different rubber torsion rods which could adversely impact the trailer's ride on secondary roads.

It would seem prudent to ask around for any negative experiences before making the switch.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:21 PM   #87
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How to gain more clearance

Opting for larger wheels and tires is okay if there is room. The original sized tires (27.88" diameter) damaged the lead edge of the wheel wells on mine. So I replaced the 7.00x15s with smaller tires.

Another option is a lift kit, 2-5/8" - 3" lift here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...it-102393.html
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:43 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guskmg View Post
Has anyone done the lift kit mod to a 35' Classic. It would sure help when backing up on to a high crown road at an intersection or, when boon docking, for that matter. All I know is that when you drag a rear frame a quarter panel repair job costs $6,000. And, that doesn't help. The LT tires are one inch taller so a lower kit might be better. If that is the case. I would think with the right metal they could be locally fabricated. Sounds like a simple spacer to me. Is it?
A rear quarter panel replacement costs less than $ 2000.00.

Extending the "drag" plates below the rear of the frame, will subtract from the clearance without dragging.

If the dragging the rear end, slowly, seldom does damage occur. BUT, when a sudden bang happens to the rear end skid plates, the damage to a quarter panel, is almost guaranteed.

Raising the trailer clearance, can be done by simply using some steel tubilng as the spacer.

As an example, if you used 6 inch channel steel, you would raise the trailer 6 inches. BUT, remember that the axle tubing height will remain the same, no matter how much you raise the shell.

Yes, adding 16 inch tires will raise the trailer 1/2 inch, but, if the axles are old, those 16 inch tires may then rub on the exterior plastic wheel well cover. That has been known to cause a fire.

Best way to add height is to increase the distance between the trailer frame, and the axle mounting plate.

A word of caution however, make sure that the axles are placed with respect to the original mounting holes in the axle mounting plate, in the exact same place VERTICALLY.

Andy
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Old 01-26-2016, 11:39 PM   #89
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I'm glad I found this thread, it's been very helpful. Many thanks to those who have done the lift and posted pics and experiences.

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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
You can also extend the frame downward using rectangular tubing and the welding the axle bracket to that tubing, making sure that the axle alignment is correct.

Then you can add, within reason, several more inches of clearance.
This is exactly what we plan on doing. We've seen a few SOBs lifted this way, and it almost looked factory.

Yes, I'm aware of the dangers of raising the COG, and I'm not worried.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:06 PM   #90
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i agree !!

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For me there was no down side.

What If a person wants to leave their trailer stock height?

I think that is great!

What if a person wants to raise their trailer up?

I think that is great too!

Is it possible that raising a trailer three inches might adversely affect trailer handling? While it is not my experience at all, I suppose lots of things are possible.

I have posted on lots of forums, I have never posted on a forum with so many people who want to make any statement that disagrees with their personal opinion controversial.

If I and others think that our stock trailers are too low, why do you disparage the action of raising them up when you have never even pulled my trailer that you call ill handling?

1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow

The older AS's look cool being so low but when you can't get in & out of gas stations that's just not practical! ... not to mention damaging for the rear end , no ?
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Old 03-25-2016, 05:20 PM   #91
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I have a new 2016 serenety 23'. Has anyone actually done this on a 23? I see several talk about it but if they have done it please respond to this thread.

Can't park in my own driveway. Too steep. Thanks, Dave
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Old 03-25-2016, 07:36 PM   #92
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If you really have to address this, you want to fix the driveway. The normal approach is to bridge it with lumber if the problem is a street to driveway transition issue. We considered several options and currently store at a covered facility that does not have access issues.

To help with trailer clearance, you want to go 15 in wheels and Michelin tires. Spend some time investigating the tire threads. There are other alternatives as well.

The 23 is quite low, so a bit of extra clearance helps. Raising the trailer considerably is really a mistake IMHO. It negatively impacts the normally excellent towing characteristics of the 23. The exception is when you plan to regularly go off road, but there really are better off road RV solutions.

My apology that this does not answer your specific question.

Good luck with your investigation. Pat
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:31 AM   #93
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I just finished installing the 3" dexter lift on my 2010 30FC. I haven't driven it yet, but I really like the clearance it gave me. Install video coming in a week or two.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:55 AM   #94
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I forgot to mention that going from the stock 14" GYM ST215/75R14C tires with a diameter of 26.7" and stock 14" wheels to the 15" Michelin LTX (P) 235/75R15 XL tires with a diameter of 28.9" on SenDel T03-56545T wheels raised the 23D about 1.1" which created more ground clearance.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:49 PM   #95
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I did the wheel and tire upgrade but did not give me enough clearance. I still think that raising it a couple of inches can not hurt the handling much and will solve the drive way problem.

I will try the lumber yard fix but not sure if I want to drag out 2 x 10s and plywood as a ramp ever time I want to move the trailer.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:35 AM   #96
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Stability

Since the Airstream already has a very low center of gravity and one of the most stable towing campers if not the best, I wouldn't give a second thought to raising it 3 inches. I for one am going to do this. As an added benefit I can finally get it to ride level without using such a drop on my hitch.
If your really concerned about unbalance look at how they test rail cars and track curvature speeds. That should answer any misgivings you have.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:01 PM   #97
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^ I agree 100%. Everything in life is a tradeoff. I'm willing to trade a little ease in towing for more ground clearance. I put a good 80 miles on my lifted airstream yesterday, and I was able to tackle steep gas station and parking lots with ease. Two weeks ago I would have scraped considerably there. It removes so much stress from driving.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:23 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by explore more View Post
^ I agree 100%. Everything in life is a tradeoff. I'm willing to trade a little ease in towing for more ground clearance. I put a good 80 miles on my lifted airstream yesterday, and I was able to tackle steep gas station and parking lots with ease. Two weeks ago I would have scraped considerably there. It removes so much stress from driving.

good to hear, I'm about to do the same thing ... steep driveway, easy access in & out gas stations and off grid campsites ... I'm willing to "take the chance" ..
by how much did you raise ? I'm installing new axles so can add another couple of inches here but was thinking about a small spacer too, so about 4" or maybe even 5" total ...
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