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Old 07-21-2009, 11:20 AM   #29
Rivet Master
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

On the ground all axles are almost dead even with the mount channel and all dropped to the same angle when jacked, again a good sign..I think.

One question, if I have about 3"s rebound, do I also have 3 of compression? If it's not too hectic around here when we leave, I'll try for some photo's when we are loaded and see how much angle I've lost.

So all, what do 'ya think?

The 3 inches of travel is good.

The problem is bottoming out.

When the torsion arms are almost parallel to the ground, with no pay load, then when the pay load is added, it's wise to check the position of the arms again.

There is a built in "stop", which will cause bottoming out, when hitting some bumps. When the arms are parallel when loaded then the trailer is about at it's limit.

If the arms are going up hill when the trailer is loaded, then bottoming out will happen.

Bottoming out, lack of proper running gear balance, excessive rated hitch bars and super heavy duty tow vehicles, all contribute to damaging the trailer, in one way or another.

Was your ever Airstream parked for an extended period of time? If so, then that's the likely cause of the problem.

The rubber rods in the axle housings, must be exercised, to stay alive, at least every year or so, to be safe. Towing it a few miles at least once a year, will prolong the life of torsion axle rubber rods.


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Old 07-21-2009, 02:32 PM   #30

2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Thanks once again for your input, you are a valuable asset here.

I have been rather anal about how I store the trailer during the off season, as you can see everything comes off including the Arrow.

We are going to be fully loaded this Saturday and I will check them again. Will also stop at the scales.

Our Suburban does have Autoride but without the auto leveling. Tongue wt is 960 on the Sherline scale, about 100 of that is the Arrow. I use 1000# bars and transfer between 140-160 to the trailer with the jacks set 1/2 way between the 2nd and 3rd marks. I get about a 5" rebound when bouncing my 170#s on the tongue. The Burb is a very smooth riding TV and if I'm not bottoming out should not bounce the coach around.
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AF #1

"Sticks & stones can break your bones...and hail will dent your Airstream"

So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:04 PM   #31
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We went through this song and dance as well. Our '05 International 25' started to noticeably sag on the curb side. I noticed one day while rotating the tires that with the rig on jack stands, the torsion arms on the curb side did not return to a normal down position with the weight removed. The street side did. A check of the plate on the side of the trailer and the tag on the axles confirmed that Airstream installed 3,000 lb axles. A trip to the scales, without the trailer being fully packed for travel but with full propane and fresh water and a Hensley hitch showed the rig to weigh 6,840 lb.

Subsequently I ordered axles from Inland, they recommended 3,800 lb axles.
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Old 07-21-2009, 04:44 PM   #32
Rivet Master
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[QUOTE=Minnie's Mate;

You probably had axles actually rated higher than what it is labeled but they are probably labeled lower per Airstream's requirements.[/QUOTE]

Your "probables" can be very misleading to many owners.

What the label says, is what they are.

That information comes from sources deemed to be the experts in specing out the manufacturing details.


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Old 07-21-2009, 06:37 PM   #33
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I'm glad you chimed in on this Andy. I can't imagine what kind of problems would arise if the axles are labled at a higher or lower weight then they are manufactured. If my shop told me this I would be very distressed. How could you know what your capacities are without accurate axle ratings?

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Old 07-28-2009, 10:29 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Your "probables" can be very misleading to many owners.

What the label says, is what they are.

That information comes from sources deemed to be the experts in specing out the manufacturing details.


I don't profess to be an expert and I think everyone on the forums realize that. I am going by what one "expert" (utility/car/horse trailer re-seller) told me and I give the details of that discussion. The shop I use is a full service shop that has been in business for many years and many of the trailers he sells come with Dexter axles.

I realize most consider your advise as gospel, they do not have the same opinion of me. I can only pass along my experience as everyone else does when they post any information they want to share.

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