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Old 05-24-2015, 08:25 AM   #15
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I gather he replaced the bearings and cups. Mysterious "loosening" of a keyed or pinned assembly usually means he didn't get the cup(s) or races seated completely in the drum.
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:10 AM   #16
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Hot hub update 2

Well figured it out the hub was loose this time due to RV tech 2 used the wrong size outer bearing. So first problem was caused due to improper tension on axle nut, and problem 2 was due to wrong size outer bearing size. I'll have to wait till tuesday to get proper parts. This is another case of if you want it done right do it yourself. Wish me luck finding the correct size parts. Anyone have a good place for parts? Thanks Rand
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:23 AM   #17
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Hot hub update

Thanks Rich. The spot I thought was a pit was just burned grease and cleaned up. I polished the other areas and the outer spindle area cleaned up nicely the inner area cleaned up some,but is still stained but feels very smooth so I'm going to try to find proper size bearings and see how it goes. Thanks to all for input. Rand
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:33 AM   #18
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As aggravating as this appears to have been. You got off easy. Now once you get the right stuff and do the job all over again and you'll be good for a long time and so much the wiser. I just did mine a week ago with a good set of American made Timkin
bearings / races. The stuff originally used by Airstream were made in China and I just had to change them.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:57 AM   #19
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Hope you have correct bearings...and seals.
Clean all parts.
Dry fit bearings to spindle.. No hub. How do they feel? Any slack/ rocking of the inner race on the spindle? If they move too much they may not be correct ones for your spindles. This may be why it only "heated" the lower side of spindle.
Now, if bearings good, lightly oil and assemble.. Tighten castle nut appropriately. Now, put a crowbar under the tire and see if you can "lift" the tire while watching the inside for movement. If the inner race moves something is wrong with bearing fit and needs to be fixed before you go a bit further.

Check the lip where oil seal runs. If it is too sharp or has a burr it can damage seal during install of hub. Lube and fit check before install in hub.
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Old 05-24-2015, 01:48 PM   #20
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Hot hub

Thanks Channing and Roger I'm in holding pattern till tuesday for parts. My OEM bearings are american made but the ones the RV repair guy used were made in China they have to go even though the inner bearing is the correct size. The guy was bragging about always using the right parts the first time.
Man it's hard to find people that do a job right the first time. Thanks for all the help. Rand
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:59 PM   #21
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What if parts were boxed or made wrong....not really a technicians fault.. But you are on the path to truth...
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:11 PM   #22
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What if parts were boxed or made wrong....not really a technicians fault..
If it was a professional technican, (My defination of professional is paid.) a professional would have known the race was defective* when the race was pressed into the hub. OR He or she would have known the bearing was defective upon final assembly. (setting pre-load) In this case the outer bearing was the wrong size. When assembling the hub onto the spindle one is looking right at the outer bearing and the tip of the spindle. A bit difficult to miss a wrong part unless the tech didn't understand what he or she was looking at, or didn't look (distraction or didn't care) at the assembly. In any case generated a "come back" for a rather basic job. So may be the part was incorrect and yet the tech installed the incorrect part and would share in the responsbility of a fix if this were my shop. (And yes I have run auto dealerships for about 10 years of my working life)

*Defination of defective, in wrong box, sized incorrectly, broken, damaged of any sort

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Old 05-25-2015, 09:10 AM   #23
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Hot hub

Action is right, the tech checked the inner bearing for size but I didn't notice him check the outer bearing I was watching the dog some of the time. The outer dia. is correct but the inner dia. is about 0.25" too large. I still have OEM and the part numbers do not match found correct size on dexter axle web page but hoping to find them local tomorrow. I paid this guy for a service and he failed in my view but live and learn. Could have been worse I made it home safe. I was just going to go around wheels and check for tension but as soon as I raised the wheel up it flopped inward. I knew something bad was wrong yet again. After a real close look at axle spindle I think it will be OK. The tech that replaced brakes bent the axle mounting plate left axle nut loose. It just seems people these days are in too big of a hurry to check details and get things done
right the first time. If you pay someone 80 to 120 dollars an hour they should get it right. Thanks for input everyone. Rand
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Old 05-25-2015, 11:15 AM   #24
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OK GRIZ. Here is the real scoop. I got my timkin bearings through an on-line distributer called " Locate Ball Bearings. Good, knowledgeable staff. I recommend them highly and they have good service.

Bearing & Race, Timkin - #LM67048 / LM67010

Bearing & Race, Timkin - #LM25580 / LM25520

You will of course need a set for each wheel.

Sorry but I didn't save the boxes so not sure which is inner and which is outer but they can easily cross reference and tell you. They can also easily cross them to other brands. The seals I picked up locally just ask for the double lip seal. Be careful I've seen them outrageously priced in the $16 range but should only be $3-5 bucks or so. I need to get an extra set to keep on hand. The races are knocked out using a long punch and can easily be installed without special tools but I broke down and for a few bucks purchased a set of bearing / seal installation tools. Should have gotten them years ago but they made the job much simpler. Don't bother with any fancy grease packing stuff. I got one and ended up using my hands. Nothing better I think.

Good Luck, see ya on the road sometime.
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Old 05-25-2015, 11:38 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post

Bearing & Race, Timkin - #LM67048 / LM67010

Bearing & Race, Timkin - #LM25580 / LM25520

Sorry but I didn't save the boxes so not sure which is inner and which is outer
The top one is smaller. If the correct part number this would be the outer bearing and race.

He may not need to replace any of other wheel bearins because there have been zero issues with them since the original re-pack. However, having a spare bearing set pre-packed and wrapped in wax paper then zip lock bagged may be a prudent strategy. (for everyone)

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Old 05-25-2015, 12:08 PM   #26
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Hot hub

Bearing packing tip....
This is what I do to pack bearings and always have one at the ready...
Using a vacuum food sealer, place a fresh clean bearing in a sealing bag, fill the inside of the bearing with a generous amount of appropriate grease. Vacuum seal the bag; as the air is drawn out the process will draw in the grease into the bearing perfectly, sealing it in the bag. You can use the freshly greased bearing immediately, or simply have one ready to use on the road should the need arise! It's clean, easy and always ready to go!
Bon apetite
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:40 PM   #27
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Hey Atomic. That's a great idea. l never would have thought of that one.
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:08 PM   #28
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Bearing packing tip....
This is what I do to pack bearings and always have one at the ready...
Using a vacuum food sealer, place a fresh clean bearing in a sealing bag, fill the inside of the bearing with a generous amount of appropriate grease. Vacuum seal the bag; as the air is drawn out the process will draw in the grease into the bearing perfectly, sealing it in the bag. You can use the freshly greased bearing immediately, or simply have one ready to use on the road should the need arise! It's clean, easy and always ready to go!
Bon apetite
I don't think the wife would go for that one
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