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Old 08-13-2008, 04:03 PM   #57
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Ditto. I just ordered axle from Inland. I have not installed it yet, but from measuring it looks like a good fit. Timely shipment, etc. I'm sure they get a good markup on these, but hey, that's the way it works. I've found Andy and others at Inland to be very willing to help.
Mark
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Old 08-13-2008, 04:15 PM   #58
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Heh, heh, heh

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... I have not installed it yet, but ...
You appear to be smiling now, Mark, like I was at your point in the tale.

Please let us know how big your smile is after you lay on your back drilling all those required mounting holes.

Tom
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:46 AM   #59
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Well, Tom, after I get my concrete pad poured I'm thinking of axles. Did you have to cut out portions of the belly pan to give you room to work? Just curious. Besides... a guy never knows when he'll need a reason to buy a pair of air nibblers.
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Old 09-03-2008, 08:12 AM   #60
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I purchased from Inland Picked up at Henshen with my own truck(luckier than most I guess) Installed myself. They fit perfectly. I just gave Andy my serial number and wala Axles oh I forgot one small item the check.
I pulled it (AS) up on blocks Tires and wheels off, Buzzed out the 4 bolts and two wires each axle and then reversed the process.Then on to the next axle.
In acutal time it took about 2 hrs. Minimum amount of tools is required and really not much labor. IT'S really a NO BRAINER .No cutting of belly pans Hemstead unless yours is way differnet than mine.
OH did I mention Im 70 yrs old. If I can do it ANYONE CAN.
ANY MORE QUESTIONS?
Feel free.
Roger
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Old 09-03-2008, 08:15 AM   #61
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Well, Tom, after I get my concrete pad poured I'm thinking of axles. Did you have to cut out portions of the belly pan to give you room to work? Just curious. Besides... a guy never knows when he'll need a reason to buy a pair of air nibblers.
No need to cut into the underbelly to change axles.

In your case, after the new pad is available, all you need is a few tools, and some 2 X 6's. Pull one axle up on the 2 X 6's, leaving the other axle tires hanging off the ground.

Remove that axle, install the replacement, replace the shocks, hook up the brake wires that are not polarized, and that axle installation is complete. Then pull the trailer new axle tires up on the 2 X 6's and duplicate the process.

Unless you have a floor jack, you will need a helper to raise the new axles in position.

Having a very cold 6 pack, is a great way to wrap up that job.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2008, 09:51 AM   #62
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If I'm trying to justify a new tool, you guys really aren't helping.

I have a three-ton floor jack, bottle jacks, etc. I'm going to build mini-platforms out of wood (ramp with a stop block) to elevate one axle at a time. I need to rig/build/fabricate something to hold the axle firmly on the jack... but that should be relatively straight forward. I haven't seen the wiring under the trailer, but the PO had a heavy gauge wire running from the connector on the tongue to the brakes. I think it was some kind of bypass line. I'm hoping the OEM wiring (in the belly?) is still sound to operate the brakes. I guess I need to start chasing down my concrete guy.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:12 AM   #63
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If I'm trying to justify a new tool, you guys really aren't helping.

I have a three-ton floor jack, bottle jacks, etc. I'm going to build mini-platforms out of wood (ramp with a stop block) to elevate one axle at a time. I need to rig/build/fabricate something to hold the axle firmly on the jack... but that should be relatively straight forward. I haven't seen the wiring under the trailer, but the PO had a heavy gauge wire running from the connector on the tongue to the brakes. I think it was some kind of bypass line. I'm hoping the OEM wiring (in the belly?) is still sound to operate the brakes. I guess I need to start chasing down my concrete guy.
All you need to hold the axle on the jack is a "U" shaped bracket.

The width you will need to have will depend on the axle rating you may choose.

Well, you may need to get into the underbelly after all, to find out what happened to the brake wire.

But, before you start, there is a plate about 10 inches square that's underneath the trailer, just behind the A-frame. It should be closer to the road side.

That's an inspection plate for the junction of the 7 way cable from the front, to the other wires that are in the shell.

If you remove that plate, you may find the brake wire problem there.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:14 AM   #64
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don't put you face under the box when you open it!
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:18 AM   #65
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If I'm trying to justify a new tool, you guys really aren't helping.
How about a nice new impact wrench?
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:27 AM   #66
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don't put you face under the box when you open it!
I have never seen a box for the wire junctions.

They sort of just lay on the inside of the underbelly, minding their own business.

Might have some dust and dirt fall though.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:44 AM   #67
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I've already popped the access panel and purchased new stainless fastners to replace the old ones. There was some kind of black goo used as a sealant. Rather than use the old panel, I thought I might make a new one... just to play with a bit of aluminum. I pulled the panel when I did the POR-15 on the tongue. I wanted to replace the connector anyway and thought it would be good to pull everything before I shot the POR-15/primer/paint.

Looking at the wires, the very thin green wires to the tail lights were ratty (exposed copper, poor connections). There were some connections I didn't completely understand but I'll post pictures when my wife downloads them. I didn't recall any damage to the brake electrical line, but I wasn't looking closely.

Oh, and there was some "stuff" inside like pieces of insulation but nothing major. Back to the project, once I start buttoning up the tongue, I'll have good copper plant from the TV to the access panel. I repair the wires as best I can in place and solder in good, new connections. Per another post, I'm also thinking of making a pigtail to a frame ground in this location (any thoughts?). When I get the tin girl on concrete and get ready to do the axles, I'll test the line between the access panel and brake assembly and see what kind of connection I have.

Not to wander off electrical, but my general rule is to start at the power source and work my way "back" when debugging electrical issues. I'll eventually get to the actual lights and address what I suspect are grounding issues at the fixtures.

Impact wrench... yeah, I'm thinking the old one just may not have the torque I need.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:50 AM   #68
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I've already popped the access panel and purchased new stainless fastners to replace the old ones.

Impact wrench... yeah, I'm thinking the old one just may not have the torque I need.
I would suggest you use aluminum rivets.

Dissimilair metals can cause problems.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:10 AM   #69
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I
Looking at the wires, the very thin green wires to the tail lights were ratty (exposed copper, poor connections). There were some connections I didn't completely understand but I'll post pictures when my wife downloads them. I didn't recall any damage to the brake electrical line, but I wasn't looking closely.

I'll have good copper plant from the TV to the access panel. I repair the wires as best I can in place and solder in good, new connections. Per another post, I'm also thinking of making a pigtail to a frame ground in this location (any thoughts?). When I get the tin? girl on concrete and get ready to do the axles, I'll test the line between the access panel and brake assembly and see what kind of connection I have.
has anyone used barrier strips in their wiring?

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...2265722t98.jpg
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