Help with axles please! :)

[amysemmens]

Hi all, I'm hoping to get some help on replacing the axels on our 1960 Airstream. My husband has taken the wheels off, and found that the axels aren't a straight line, but actually bend up at the ends. Can anyone tell me if they've had these axels, and have you replaced them with the same or straight? Excuse me if I sound vague as this is one area of the airstream I know little about, so I'm sure the terms aren't correct
Any experience appreciated.

[Glenritas]

Now that is one old Airstream . Yes they did do a dropped axle back in the 40's , 50's and early 60's.

What model is your Airstream ?

[amysemmens]

It's a 1960 Tradewind Imported her to Australia in December.

[A W Warn]

I would continue to use that axle.

[Glenritas]

Congratulations !!

Now for the fun to begin, go over the systems, floor, bearings, brakes and have fun with it.

Now if you looking for more ground clearance just do an axle flip i.e. mount the axle below the springs.

If its straight it will polish up to a spit shine, if not it will still shine bright.

Be ready for a lot of attention when out and about with it

[amysemmens]

The interior is empty, so our main concerns initially is running gear, replacing some exterior panels, removing interior panels, rewiring, replumbing, new floor, chassis repairs...ugh. Then, the fit out. Wish me luck. If anyone can recommend a particular order to do it in, I'd love to hear it!

[Melody Ranch]

It is a normal axle. A good one. Springs are good...don't worry about it.

[cwf]

I would replace the springs and connections if the axle is in good shape.. Of course replacing the bearings in the hub is a 'given'... and the rusted springs may need to be replaced..

If the hubs are in good shape, and the axle ends are good, no need to replace.

In the US, most of the AS Axle replacements are called 'torqflex'... and a different design.

What you have there is a very strong axle.. I would try to 'restore' rather than 'replace'.

[Glenritas]

On my build I started with the axles, bearings, brakes, wheels and tires then striped the interior , found floor damage and replace the last 4' , repaired some panels then did the floor covering, wiring, installed a/c, tv antenna, Maxxair power roof vents, installed the new water heater & plumbing, I just had the windows tinted and now I'm starting to fit it out.

[amysemmens]

Thank you all for your input. It is very much appreciated! I'm sure my husband will be glad with your advice to keep the axel!! If anyone would like to follow our progress, I've started a thread. Not much there at the moment, but hopefully soon!
http://www.airforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129900

[Tom_T]

We have the same dropped axle on our 1960 Avion T20 - which was an Airstream competitor. They all used dropped axles to lower the trailer top & underbody height for better airflow - especially since cars towed the smaller trailers.

Those axles are pretty bullet-proof with heavy duty steel - and the leaf springs are probably okay too, & since the 16-20 footers didn't weigh much - perhaps 1/2 or the same size ones since the 1990's - they didn't usually wear out either.

As stated above - the wheel bearings & brakes should be checked & replaced for any wear, but if they were recently redone by the prior owner, then maybe only seals & re-packing is needed, brake shoes, etc. Look at them & then decide what's needed, & ask a car or truck mechanic if your hubby is not sure.

You can remove the axle, springs & links - replacing any of the fittings, bolts, nuts, etc. that look too worn - but make sure to use the same strength bolts/nuts & steel in brackets/etc. as original, or your "new replacements" could do worse than the old stuff! Also look to see if the frame mounting points will need reinforcement, & do so if needed.

The axle & springs can be media/sand blasted or dipped in EvapoRust etc. to remove the rust, any pitting left after that to be filled if you want a smooth finish (body lead or plastic bondo works for aesthetics), then refinished with paint or powder coating (the latter may chip more than paint & can't be touched up later as well). There are also probably places in OZ where they can rebuild them for you & repaint or PC the parts too.

As to the rest, well start with floor & then the most inner areas first - e.g.: inside the walls, but if you can rewire, replumb water/gas/sanitary & insulate without taking all interior panels off - then do so with as many left riveted intact as possible.

The splatter-look Zolotone paint for the interior wall skins is still available, but costly. Vintage Trailer Supply here in the Northeast USA is online & has tons of Airstream stuff - including replacement black & fresh water tanks, & a retrofit grey water belly tank that fits between the floor rails below the floor but requires support beams or similar - but no bulge is needed in the belly pans. If you're digging in as deep as you are, then you may as well get that all done to modern standards (the grey water belly tank was a little found option back then for only a few of the "dry camping" outfitted trailers).

Have fun & try to do as much as you can yourselves, otherwise the cost will quickly exceed the cost of getting someone else's finished resto project!

I had too many other car & 1921 old house resto projects already, so I told my wife she had to find a finished one!
... but there were still a bunch of little things to do anyway, & I'll probably tackle the grey water belly tank add-on when I re-rivet the belly pans later!

I played Rugby Union for 26 years - from college 1970-74, 1st Div Club here in SoCal, thru Old Boyz up to 1996 - with a bunch of OZ Boyz on those clubs - & our club toured OZ in the late 1970's. So great to have you on here!

Enjoy your trailering in the Land of OZ!

FYI - below is a fun pic of a guy towing a caravan Down Under whom you may run into at a vintage trailer & car event in OZ, towing with the same 1969 Pontiac Ventura/Catalina 4dr as my 2nd car in college, & one of our Avion T20 - note how low it rides with the similar dropped axle.

Cheers!
Tom
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[Sodbust]

Most of the talk on A$ is regards the flex,, rubber spring axles used on A$ in the later years. They have the good point as they are compact and light but not near as strong as the old leaf springs set up..

What you have is a proven ,, bullet proof axle.. Just inspect the bushings in the main leaf springs and shackles and supporting hardware for ware.
Myself I would take the leaf springs apart and inspect for any cracks or uneven shape from side to side.. Then I would polish the leaf areas where they rub on each other.. With constant use the springs do a good job just by use.. But if the trailer has been sitting a lot over the years it might ride to harsh with the rust between the leaf;s..

Spindles for bearing fit,, clean up and new hub seals should add another 100,000 miles to that axle setup.. Sodbust

[NavyCorpsman]

Bearings, Seals, grease, bushings and hardware....Drive it another 55 years.

[Action]

As stated above the "axles" you have are still good unless you are have wheel bearing issues. The axles and the springs (leaf) can be seperated and replaced independantly of each other if the situation requires. In a torsion axle (used in Airstream trailer a few years later) had the spring intregral to the axle. So the entire axle assembly needs to be replaced because of low riding height. (springs are worn out)

With your set up if you have low ride height replace the leaf springs only.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Melody Ranch]

First of all...I have done all this several times recently. I am not guessing. The 4 inch drop axel you have is good.
If the springs are broken...thats a big if....just get a shop to replace them. They are no big deal. If the ride is to low....remount the axel below the springs. The only real trouble could be the spindles. The size makes it difficult to find bearings and seals. The same size problem may occur if you try to swap out the entire backing plate and brake assemblies. AND....if all else fails and you want to make it easy and quick, as well as a nice swap, just go to a local supply and buy a complete axel and brake unit...they come ready to mount on the spring you already have and connect the electric brakes.

[1953Cruiser]

Now I'm confused. I've read in several places that axles of this age should be replaced. I'm in the beginning stages of restoring a '53 Cruiser and was just assuming that I would need to do this. This thread is making me question that need.

[Action]

A 1953 Airstream trailer will have leaf springs, NOT torsion (rubber rod) springs. And a leaf spring arrangement will have springs that can be seperated from the axle. A torsion axle has intregral springs or rubber rods and these spings are not serviceable and the entire axle has to be replaced if the springs are sagging.

It is highly unlikely the axle would need replacement unless there is some physical damage. Typical damage would be either the axle has been hit and bent OR the spindles on the end have excessive wear at the wheel bearing mounting area from improper installation or delayed maintenance.

It is concievable the leaf springs are beyond their service life. The springs have lost their spring! Those leaf springs should be replaced and can be removed from the axle. DO not replace this axle because of worn out leaf springs.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[wkerfoot]

However you might want to replace an old spring axle since obtaining brakes may be difficult and the modern ones probably won't fit.

Bill

[TG Twinkie]

I agree with Sodbust. Check for broken leafs and worn bushings on each end of the spring. Grease appropriately. Spray penetrating oil on and in between the leafs. And go camping.


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[overlander63]

Just so everybody knows, this is an axle: