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Old 10-21-2012, 07:14 PM   #15
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Since day one when we got our used AS and I read the manual I could never quite understand the logic of those jacking points that AS mark under the frame.

Apart from the danger of slipping and puncturing the belly pan, it just didn't seem to me to be intuitively the right place to jack - so I didn't - I jacked under the axle plate instead. I did however - and still do - wonder why AS suggest this.

Since I discovered how easy it is an a dual axle trailer to change a wheel by using those interlocking plastic pads under the adjacent wheel, that is the inly method I have used - seems so much easier safer than messing with bottle jacks or trolley jacks.

Brian.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:17 PM   #16
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The only bad thing about the axel mounting plate is that if you are using a bottle type hydraulic jack it is easy for it to slip off. I always jack my trailer with a roll around hydraulic floor jack that has the flanged pad that keeps the jack from slipping off. As I explained above, one of my mounting plates was bent by careless jacking. I also have a place on the other side where someone missed the plate and jacked the trailer on one of the holding tank pans. It crushed it but did not damage anything inside. My trailer has seen too many jackasses with jacks.

Perry
Perry.

A grooved head on a bottle jack works well, if used.

Most shops simply use a floor jack.

Simple, effective and quick.

Andy
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:20 PM   #17
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Andy, I fully agree. The plywood just gives a little bit of protection should one find a reason to use the jacking points. Now, one could use a really large piece of wood and even get greater protection but I don't want to go there. I just mean that it allows for a little latitude in jack placement but one still must be careful when placing the jack.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:49 AM   #18
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The "bend" in the axle mounting plates is usually caused by not enough welding on the backside where it attaches to the frame.

Andy
I will give it a close looksee again but the welds look good holding the axle mounting plate to the chassis. The mounting plate is just bent a tad at the bottom. I will lay a straight edge down the plate over the existing welds and see if I can detect any warpage.

You can be sure if I find anything it will be much heavier when it gets set back down.

I talked to my buddy Saturday and he said he should be through with building shelves/bins (contruction trailer) yesterday so I will drive up shortly and see if he did and get back to work on her.


I suspect if the axle mounting plate was 1/4" in the first place it would have never happened but that would have added maybe 20 lbs a plate.

I am just glad I can use the AS factory mounting plate holes without changing them as I could not ask for better alignment as after 5000 miles on the 10 ply LT tires I can detect no visual anomaly and the difference in tread depth between the front and rear tires is about .015".

On the tires that came on it when making sharp turns in parking lot I could hear the front tires complaining and see the scrub marks on tread.

Your comment about vehicle rims not being that good is well taken and absolutley concurred with though in the last year I have seen two mag wheels with hairline cracks between the lug holes. I have two vehicles with mag wheels and don't really care for them at all but between them they have 485K with no problems but then again they haven't been subjected to heavy or side loading and I don't let anyone on them with a airgun that is not backed off. I do my own rotation and torque them with a Snap On Torqueometer in alternating sequence.


I know what you mean about trying to tell folks a design is not right or to suggest improvements falling on deaf ears and I chalk it up to them not wanting to admit they are wrong or afraid of lawsuits. When I was working I made a discovery and upon investigation found several deaths had occurred as a direct result of the design flaw as the orginal investigators were not familiar with proper ordnance design practices. I wrote it up and section chief concurred. I found out years later the gov't report was altered after we signed off on it and I can prove it. I contacted the Army CID and they notified NCIS who told me they were going to prosecute and later learned they were told to stand down by DCIS as they were taking it and it was buried.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:13 PM   #19
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Rion.

The following is an article that is in the Airstream Central portion of this web site, that will teach you the check out procedure.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy
Andy,

Thanks for the great article! Also for the hitch torsion bar story as well.
Great Articles. Learned more about axles and hitches than I thought there was to know.

Cheers,
Rion
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:11 PM   #20
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Andy,

Thanks for the great article! Also for the hitch torsion bar story as well.
Great Articles. Learned more about axles and hitches than I thought there was to know.

Cheers,
Rion
Your very welcome.

Andy
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:47 PM   #21
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So jacking between the axles is the recommended location. Where should the jack stands be placed while working on the axles?

Also, I sort of assumed that the jack point that Airstream suggested was a good place to put the stabilizer jacks, is that correct? What about jack stands in front, I have mine currently on the arms of the tongue near the body.

I have new stabilizer jacks for the front, where should these mount?

Thanks
Tom
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:19 PM   #22
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So jacking between the axles is the recommended location. Where should the jack stands be placed while working on the axles?

Also, I sort of assumed that the jack point that Airstream suggested was a good place to put the stabilizer jacks, is that correct? What about jack stands in front, I have mine currently on the arms of the tongue near the body.

I have new stabilizer jacks for the front, where should these mount?

Thanks
Tom
Tom.

Jack stand should be placed behind the rear axle, on the axle mounting plate, when working on the axles.

Stabilizer jacks shouild be mounted on the frame and cross members, that are at the ends of the awning rail, or the side sheet metal, which is really the same location.

Andy
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:45 PM   #23
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I tried to move the stabilizers so they line up with the awning mounts. The mounts for the axle get in the way. Sot the rear stabilizers are just behind where the axle mounts end at the frame, pretty close to where the little square piece that AS used to mark the lift point used to be.

To move the stabilizers further forward requires about a 1" spacer so that the stabilizers could be folded up to the stowed position.

Tom
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:39 AM   #24
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The stabilizers don't replace real jacks. They can't handle much in the way of loads. They are more to keep the trailer from bouncing. Also there is a support beam that supports the nose of the jack. You move more than a couple inches forward or backwards and you loose that attach point? What was the motivation to move the leveling jacks?

Perry
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:59 PM   #25
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I was trying to determine if the stabilizer jacks would go , easily, where Andy was recommending. They won't. The ones in front will be fine.

I try to get the camper reasonably level and do a minor tweak when I lower the stabilizer jacks. I also just installed a, new to me, power tongue jack. It replaced a pretty heavy duty and still manual jack. Between that change and having the camper up on jack stands while i replace the axles, I figured I would install the front stabilizer jacks.

Tom
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:20 PM   #26
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I was trying to determine if the stabilizer jacks would go , easily, where Andy was recommending. They won't. The ones in front will be fine.

I try to get the camper reasonably level and do a minor tweak when I lower the stabilizer jacks. I also just installed a, new to me, power tongue jack. It replaced a pretty heavy duty and still manual jack. Between that change and having the camper up on jack stands while i replace the axles, I figured I would install the front stabilizer jacks.

Tom
Jack stands are not required when changing axles on a tandem Airstream.

Andy
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:51 AM   #27
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I concur fully with not using a jack to change a tire. I got a set of Rhino plastic ramps which are the best thing I have seen to date. Found out there are two versions of them.

First set I got was rated for 12,000 lbs at a flea market in Ohio. Then at another flea marker here I saw a set rated for 3000 lbs and I was going get them and came back on the way to the car a few minutes later and someone has "stolen them from me" haha.

At any rate I love the 12,000 pound ones and used them a couple weeks ago to change oil in vehicles. I put front end of 2500HD on them and left it over night with no warpage. They are light. I have also figured out they could be used as steps to get in AS.

They are far superior to the metal ramps I have had for years. I have already given away a set of metal ones to a kid in our church who just got his first vehicle, a small pick up. His Dad is starting him out right teaching him how to change his own oil, pack bearings etc.

I also got one of the bottle jack/stand combos from Tractor Supply and noticed they also carry the heavy duty Rhino ramps as well. I think the ramps were 44.00 and the jack/stand combo was around 25.00.
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