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Old 04-30-2006, 06:09 PM   #15
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Question Drum Balance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 72 tradewind
My assemblys took up to 12oz of weight but I considered that within reason due to the total weight involved.
Now you've gotten my interest up. Went out and looked at the tires today. The worst offender had a total of 3.25oz. These are 3 year old Goodyear Marathons on alloy rims.
I was planning on repacking the bearings in the next couple of weeks. Now I guess I have to check the drum balance at the shop. I don't think I've ever seen a automotive drum on a brake lathe with more than 1/4 inch of runout on the outer edge. If I did I would probably sell the customer a new one. Seen a lot of junky aftermarket stuff on the GM side of the shop, not so much on the import side, so maybe it's just my perception.
One more thing to add to my "to do" list.
Tom
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:46 PM   #16
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Thanks for all the replies. I still have a few questions:

59toaster: So, you're saying it should be done with tires, wheels, hubs & axle all installed on trailer? Is there a laser device or something used to check balance? And how CAN my single-axle trailer be safely lifted?

azflycaster: Do you think if I show that Inland webpage to the guys at the local horse trailer place who are replacing my axle/wheels/tires, they'll understand and have the equipment?
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1959newbie
Thanks for all the replies. I still have a few questions:

59toaster: So, you're saying it should be done with tires, wheels, hubs & axle all installed on trailer? Is there a laser device or something used to check balance? And how CAN my single-axle trailer be safely lifted?

azflycaster: Do you think if I show that Inland webpage to the guys at the local horse trailer place who are replacing my axle/wheels/tires, they'll understand and have the equipment?
It can be done that way. On your coach its easier because with the tandem axles. You can roll one wheel up on a ramp.

We have a company here in Atlanta that touts the benefits of this method.
http://www.butlertire.com/services.asp

The way most of these people have done it you are going to be hard pressed to find anybody willing to do it unless you have a buddy that has a balancer.

Personally my plan is to balance the hub then balance the tire. The hope is I won't have to be as careful with indexing the wheel to the hub. Just get the tires balanced as you would on a car and go with it. Once balanced the hub should hold that balance till it needs turning.
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:27 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1959newbie
Thanks for all the replies. I still have a few questions:

azflycaster: Do you think if I show that Inland webpage to the guys at the local horse trailer place who are replacing my axle/wheels/tires, they'll understand and have the equipment?
I would doubt that most places would have this type of equiptment, you can always ask...
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 59toaster
We have a company here in Atlanta that touts the benefits of this method.
http://www.butlertire.com/services.asp
That would be my prefered method. We have one of the old Hunter machines but it is missing a couple of necessary parts. IIRC the newer ones are laser based? Ours is one of the old strobe models, worked great when it was last working.

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Old 05-01-2006, 03:19 PM   #20
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The best part is, you just do it once. After that, if you remove or replace a tire, you only have to have the wheel and tire spun balanced at a local shop.

Not totally exact. But should be close enough.

The friction material (and magnet) will wear off an uneven amount of metal on the drum/disc. If that were not the case then the friction material would contact the drum/disc evenly. And that almost never happens.

However the amount of unevenness should be very small.

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Old 05-01-2006, 04:27 PM   #21
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[quote=59toaster]It can be done that way. On your coach its easier because with the tandem axles. You can roll one wheel up on a ramp.

But actually, I only have a single axle -- that avatar was just the stock one from the forum, I haven't uploaded an actual picture of mine yet.

So, how DO I tell people the safe way to get my trailer off the ground, even to replace axle, not to mention balancing?
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:24 PM   #22
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[quote=1959newbie]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 59toaster
It can be done that way. On your coach its easier because with the tandem axles. You can roll one wheel up on a ramp.

But actually, I only have a single axle -- that avatar was just the stock one from the forum, I haven't uploaded an actual picture of mine yet.

So, how DO I tell people the safe way to get my trailer off the ground, even to replace axle, not to mention balancing?
If yours is built like mine there is a 2x2 steel beam welded under the main frame rail that the spring mounts on. That is a safe jacking point. Preferably behind the wheel side.

I know my suspension is in need of a lot of work. I am still debating on replacing the axle. Word has it in 59 they ran a much smaller bearing then a new axle would have. Also that tub could be rusting internaly.....tought call. The one luckily thing is the axle on our coach is a LOT cheaper and easier the deal with then the torsion the new coaches have. I need to measure but most trailer places should carry a 3 inch drop. Just need to make sure its the right width.
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:52 PM   #23
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Eric,

The drop on your axle might be 4". That's a standard drop for a Dexter axle.
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:38 AM   #24
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Wink Leaf-spring axles cheaper?

The axle itself maybe, but when you add in ~$400 for fabrication of duplicate leaf-springs (which of course are different lengths and widths than anything used now), I think the parts cost comes out ~same.

Of course, in 20yrs, when I'm full-timing and living off Soc. Sec. I won't have to replace it like I would a torsion axle....
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