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Old 03-26-2008, 08:13 AM   #113
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Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
I now suspect my suspension is so stiff that it is unable to absorb any shock, similar to a flatbed trailer with no load.
HiHo,

I lost track of this thread - do you have the new axles installed at this point?

I should also add that my dexter install on my '64 trade wind has been completed by south jersey rv. i was a bit surprised by the 8 hour labor fee. i'm guessing it was a two man job taking four hours.

when the time comes i will definetly tackle the three axles on my excella 1000 myself.

--dave
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:22 AM   #114
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HiHo,

I lost track of this thread - do you have the new axles installed at this point?...
--dave
Uh, nope...I'll probably re-order this week.
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:35 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munimula
HiHo,

I lost track of this thread - do you have the new axles installed at this point?

I should also add that my dexter install on my '64 trade wind has been completed . I was a bit surprised by the 8 hour labor fee. i'm guessing it was a two man job taking four hours.

when the time comes i will definetly tackle the three axles on my excella 1000 myself.

--dave
Your 64 trailer has a single axle.

Replacing axles is a one man job, as long as a floor jack is handy. If a floor jack is not handy, then a second person is needed for abour 10 minutes per axle.

If 2 men took 4 hours each, I would guess that they took turns watching each others work.

If the bolts were rusted, and had to be cut off, the labor time would be no more than 3 hours, including shock replacement, to replace the axle.

If the axle was rusted to the frame, the total time would be 4 hours, including shock replacement.

When the necessary changes must be made to a Dexter axle, a total of 8 hours is a little high, unless a shop is unfamiliar with the procedure.

Balancing the running gear along with the axle or axles replacement should be free, except for the lead weights.

Providing the trailer serial number, to obtain a direct fit axle, except for drilling 6 holes, in your case, would have been a lot cheaper.

Andy
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:56 AM   #116
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This thread has taken so many turns I might as well post an off topic...

Has anyone welded shock brackets to a new Dexter axle AFTER installation?

I know it's easier with them laying on the ground, but are both sides of the arm accessable after the axle is installed?
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Old 03-26-2008, 11:03 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
This thread has taken so many turns I might as well post an off topic...

Has anyone welded shock brackets to a new Dexter axle AFTER installation?

I know it's easier with them laying on the ground, but are both sides of the arm accessable after the axle is installed?
Welding shock brackets on, after the axle is mounted is easy, "IF" you remove the hub and drum, and usually the backing plate too.

Then you can position the shock bracket where ever you need it to be, and weld it on both sides as well.

Welding the bracket to the trailing arm, will not hurt the rubber rods, as long as the welding is not done with a torch.

Andy
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Old 03-26-2008, 11:21 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
.....I know it's easier with them laying on the ground, but are both sides of the arm accessable after the axle is installed?
I'm going to disagree with Andy here - remember this is coming from a strictly occassional welder. I welded the shock brackets on the '78 Sovereign axles about a year ago, but I remember the process well. Since I welded the brackets on the trailing arm before I installed the axles I was able to run a bead on both sides of the bracket to trailing arm junction.

I don't think they (the welds) would be easy to make after the axle is installed - at least the the inside weld (towards the trailer) woud be REALLY hard to do.....

Take a look at your existing brackets before you take off the existing axle and see if you could get a gun or stick up there (and see enough to weld).

When installing the brackets on the new axle, if you mount the bracket just a bit more toward the front of the trailer than the original you should have enough room for the shocks to swing - even with an increase in the starting angle.

I went with a 45 degree starting angle, and did not move the bracket that much when compared to the original Henschen, and I have "just" enough room that the shock does not hit the trailing arm when the tire is lifted off of the ground.

If you took off the brake backing assembly there would be plenty of access to the front (outside face) of the trailing arm, and a single bead on the bracket would probably be sufficient, but then you have the problem of reinstalling the top three nuts holding the backing plate on -

I had to take the backing plates off of the old axle to get enough room to grind the old mounts off.

I think it will be MUCH easier doing it while the axle is on the ground.

Even better, it would really save a lot of time if you would have the mounting brackets installed by the manufacturer.
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:52 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH
I'm going to disagree with Andy here - remember this is coming from a strictly occassional welder. I welded the shock brackets on the '78 Sovereign axles about a year ago, but I remember the process well. Since I welded the brackets on the trailing arm before I installed the axles I was able to run a bead on both sides of the bracket to trailing arm junction.

I don't think they (the welds) would be easy to make after the axle is installed - at least the the inside weld (towards the trailer) woud be REALLY hard to do.....

Take a look at your existing brackets before you take off the existing axle and see if you could get a gun or stick up there (and see enough to weld).

When installing the brackets on the new axle, if you mount the bracket just a bit more toward the front of the trailer than the original you should have enough room for the shocks to swing - even with an increase in the starting angle.

I went with a 45 degree starting angle, and did not move the bracket that much when compared to the original Henschen, and I have "just" enough room that the shock does not hit the trailing arm when the tire is lifted off of the ground.

If you took off the brake backing assembly there would be plenty of access to the front (outside face) of the trailing arm, and a single bead on the bracket would probably be sufficient, but then you have the problem of reinstalling the top three nuts holding the backing plate on -

I had to take the backing plates off of the old axle to get enough room to grind the old mounts off.

I think it will be MUCH easier doing it while the axle is on the ground.

Even better, it would really save a lot of time if you would have the mounting brackets installed by the manufacturer.
1968 and older trailers must have the shock brackets installed in the field.

Why?

There is a huge difference between some of those years and the 2 plants. Odds are less than one out of ten, that they will be in the correct location, for that particular trailer.

Sure the manufacturer can put them on, and then they most probably need to be removed, and relocated.

[B]This applies only to the 1968 and older trailers.[B]

We weld the shock brackets on those trailers, after the axle is mounted.

Next, we install the shocks.

We then install the backing plates and the balanced hub and drums, and tires.

From 1969 on up, no changes are necessary for the proper location of the shock brackets.

Andy
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:31 PM   #120
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Are the hubs and drums balanced on the new axles Andy?
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:38 PM   #121
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Are the hubs and drums balanced on the new axles Andy?
New hub and drums, today, are "unicast," (one piece).

The casting today is far superior than several years ago.

The machining process, today, is far superior as well.

The hub and drums are not balanced, but, are much closer to being in balance, than ever before.

When using most of todays large suppliers of hub and drums, if you can only balance the tires and wheels, you are not in too bad of shape, usually.

Andy
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Old 03-26-2008, 11:58 PM   #122
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4 hours? wow, yeah did mine in less than an hour of actual work, and only had a friend help me carry the axles out to the trailer. That seems way over the top for labor (and mine is 2 axles)
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Old 03-27-2008, 01:01 AM   #123
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I agree, took me about an hour by myself. for the first axle that is. Haven't got the second one in yet.
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Old 04-03-2008, 01:08 PM   #124
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A quick update, Dexters down angle offering that's between 22.5 degrees and 45 degrees is NOT 35 as has been posted (by many, including myself) but instead 32 degrees.
What's 3 degrees among friends
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Old 04-03-2008, 01:33 PM   #125
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What's 3 degrees among friends
Answer: One-half of 6 degrees of separation, so you are not all that far apart.
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:40 PM   #126
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Answer: One-half of 6 degrees of separation, so you are not all that far apart.
The Misses has been known to give me the 3rd degree from time to time now that I think about it
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