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Old 03-16-2011, 04:41 PM   #1
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Do I need a new Axle ?

Alright, I already started soaking the nuts. The second picture shows I only jacked up the hub around 2 inches before it started lifting the trailer. Am I right it should have flexed around 4 or 5 inches? It has a 3000lb axle is there any reason to change that spec? Thanks, Don
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:55 PM   #2
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Sorry to say, it's time to write the check. Cha-Ching!
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:45 PM   #3
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We 'lock hubs' all the time around here regarding axles...do a quick search and you'll find plenty of threads to occupy your evening hours by the fireside...

As another that as been there - done that (replaced em')...it does look like it's your turn!

Enjoy - not all that difficult a job...we went with the 3,500# capacity replacements - the original's were 3,000# units...get the complete set-up with new hubs, drums, brakes, etc - you'll have some nice new stuff to roll down the road for another 30 years!
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:54 PM   #4
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I did a dozen axles last year for people and I didn't find one that moved more then 1". If you are not making long trips, constantly on the move, that 2" will be OK for a few more years.
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:30 PM   #5
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I could tell by how my trailer rode, it was getting pretty beat up, rivets popping, drawers coming open, pillows tossed around.

It rides so much better now, just floats along behind us. And it wasn't hard to put a new one on - because I paid someone else to do the work
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:43 PM   #6
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Just my 2 cents
But I also saw the rivets popping in the area directly around the axle. It unrolled the TP and the ROLL TOWEL.OPENED DOORS and the frige. Things were thrown around the coach. Mine stayed in the same position when I drove the front axle up on three stacked 2x8's. I gained 4 inches in ground clearance and the destruction inside the coach stopped after I made the axle change.
DO WHAT EVER YOU THINK IS RIGHT>ITS YOU WHO WILL PAY.
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:52 PM   #7
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I hope that photo of a bottle jack under a piece of boken match lumber under the brake drum is a joke, or: Please get out from under that trailer until you show us a photo of some safe jacking practices. Please
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:50 PM   #8
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Single axle, thirty something years old.. If you don't mind too much spending the money a new axle would be awesome!
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:28 PM   #9
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All a trailer is, is a metal frame and axles and some kind of a deck or body. Axles seem sort of important to me. On the other hand . . . I'd never ask a barber if I needed a haircut unless I wanted a haircut.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:57 PM   #10
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Any comments on if I should go to a 3500 rated axle or stay with a 3000? After seeing all the mess in the interior after a 300 mile trip I needed to check the axle. Thanks for all feedback! Don
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:00 PM   #11
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Those of you that have done this...did you have to do any alignment or is there no adjustment? You bolt them in and go.
Tom
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:02 PM   #12
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From Andy's (Inland Rv) comments I gather that there will be a min and a max rating that is advisable for a particular trailer.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:06 PM   #13
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I would move up to the 3,500. Here is my very own axle thread. Since you only have one axle, I'd make sure it was new if you have the money to make it that way. Good luck, and all the best to you.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glacierrunne View Post
Any comments on if I should go to a 3500 rated axle or stay with a 3000? After seeing all the mess in the interior after a 300 mile trip I needed to check the axle. Thanks for all feedback! Don
This nominal size of axle can be rated from 2500 lbs to 3700 lbs, so you can request whatever you like in 100 lb increments. What you should request depends on what, if any changes you are planning for the restoration & how that effects the overall weight. Keep in mind that the load rating you choose will not effect the cost, providing you stay within this range.
Thanks,
Colin
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