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Old 01-26-2016, 09:01 PM   #29
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Great points - I suppose that since the wheels are unsprung weight (i.e. not carried by the frame), that might explain the difference between the GVWR of 4500# and the axle rating of 4300#. I guess I'd like to be able to load up the axle to the GVWR (since I assume that the GVWR is a function of the frame, since the axle has it's own rating?).

By my calculations, we are running with about 580# of weight that we add to the trailer when we travel (this includes water and propane - we do put some of the weight in the TV), which puts us close to the gross rating for the trailer, and probably technically over the axle rating (which might explain my issues). I suspect that we are not over 4500# for the trailer, but we are overloading the axle's 4300# rating (or does the axle+wheel assembly really weigh 200# all together?).

So, thinking out loud - if I had an axle that was a bit higher rated (let's say 4500# to match the trailer's GVWR for arguments sake), could I load up the axle to 4500# safely without the risk of compromising the frame? I realize that we are pushing the edge here, which is why we carry much of our gear in the TV. The weight of the people are only ever added to the trailer when we are unhitched and the stabilizer jacks are down. It just seems that we shouldn't be having rivets pop if we haven't hit GVWR, and the axle just looks like it is so unhappy with the load (I know - I need to get over to the CAT scales and really figure out what difference the overkill WD was making). But until I do that, I'm very open to thoughts, ideas, and suggestions. Even if the weights are all good, the trailer is still sitting WAY to low for comfort in the rear, so I'm still leaning toward the lift kit.
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:39 AM   #30
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Sorry, the Airstream app was down all day yesterday so I couldn't post the pictures.

The trailer is parked slightly nose high right now but this will give you an idea.

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I will get you one here in an hour or two, it really is not that noticeable to the eye, but it is very noticeable in the reduction of dragging the back of the trailer, and it makes my second step useful...

I HATE dragging bottom.


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Old 01-27-2016, 05:20 PM   #31
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Looks great! Thank you for taking the time to post those pics.
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:20 PM   #32
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Looks great. I'm curious--is that a mod to the rear bumper area or something else in the image that appears that way?
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:33 AM   #33
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If you are talking about the thing right to the right of the propane tank, it is the enclosure I built for my inverter.

I should have gotten a little further back for perspective as this is the front of the trailer.

There isn't anything extra at the back of the trailer except for the non stock bumper that came with the trailer when I bought it.

In the photos, left is front and right is back.


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Old 01-28-2016, 08:56 AM   #34
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Looks great. I'm curious--is that a mod to the rear bumper area or something else in the image that appears that way?
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Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
If you are talking about the thing right to the right of the propane tank, it is the enclosure I built for my inverter.

I should have gotten a little further back for perspective as this is the front of the trailer.

There isn't anything extra at the back of the trailer except for the non stock bumper that came with the trailer when I bought it.

In the photos, left is front and right is back.


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I think KYAirstream is referring to the rear. I appears you have a black coating on the lower rear segment and there is a large wheeled trash bin in the background. A quick look at the picture makes it appear you've installed a trunk of some sort at the rear of the trailer but I think it's the black coating on the segment and the trash bin.

I initially thought the same thing until I looked at a larger version of the picture.
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:22 AM   #35
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[
So my question to this group is the following: Is it worth installing the lift kit and running pretty much at max gross all the time, or would I be better off biting the bullet and getting a beefier axle (which would be a bit of a bummer on a brand new trailer, but likely worth the investment in the long run). And would a beefier axle solve my ground clearance issues, or would I still need the lift kit?

Thanks in advance!

Patrick[/QUOTE]

I installed the lift kit on our 19' Bambi, which we still have, and it has been one of the best upgrades I have done. Ranks up there with going to 16" wheels, LifeLine 6-volt batteries, and Progressive Dynamics charger/converter. Which is why I would like to have a lift kit on our 23'. I did have to install a double step to make it easier for our dog, and us, to enter and exit. The replacement Lippert aluminum double step was so much better than the stock single step made of stamped metal; heavier constructed and looks great, though I did have to fabricate mounting brackets to tie it into the frame at various points.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:33 AM   #36
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If the axles are worn out replace them, if not, I recommend simply lifting the trailer.

It takes a lot of worry out of towing.


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Old 01-28-2016, 11:34 AM   #37
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I think KYAirstream is referring to the rear. I appears you have a black coating on the lower rear segment and there is a large wheeled trash bin in the background. A quick look at the picture makes it appear you've installed a trunk of some sort at the rear of the trailer but I think it's the black coating on the segment and the trash bin.

I initially thought the same thing until I looked at a larger version of the picture.

I see what you mean now.

You identified the illusion perfectly.

Yep, bed liner on the trailer with a rolling trash can behind.


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Old 02-01-2016, 11:26 AM   #38
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I've got a 2010 Flying Cloud 30. Anyone know which axles I have? I'm tired of dragging at gas stations.
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:42 PM   #39
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Lift Kits.

Lift kits are a help, but the same or better can be achieved by simply welding what ever rise you want, by using steel tubing, to the original frame, and axle mounting plate.

The only critical thing is make sure that you place the new axle location in the same EXACT VERTICAL spot.

I have been told by some insiders that it would be very unwise to raise more than 5 inches.

When the time comes to replace the axles, you can gain another inch from brand new, by increasing the starting angle from 22 1/2 degrees to 32 degrees.

Lastly, make super sure that the distance between the 2 shock studs does not exceed 14.4 inches.

Andy
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:51 PM   #40
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Ok, an update on my progress.... In short, it's going slowly. I realize now I'm not really equipped to handle this job efficiently by myself with the tools I have at hand, but I am making progress!

So far I have lifted the trailer onto jack stands (though I suspect I am NOT supporting the trailer in the proper way on the jack stands - using the jack plate to actually raise the trailer with the jack I wasn't sure where to put the jackstands! Where should they go?), gotten the wheels off, loosened all the axle bolts, and installed one side of the lift kit.

This is turning out to be much more difficult than I had imagined, largely because a) I don't have an impact wrench to help loosen/tighten the bolts, and b) in order to get the 150lbs of torque required to tighten the new bolts I have to do a series of contortionist routines underneath the trailer using various structures as bracing to pull against. I'm much more sore than I had imagined at this point - there isn't a lot of room to work under there! It's also interesting to note that the original bolts had a LOT more than 150lbs of torque on them!

It really took a LONG time for me to get the original bolts loosened with nothing but elbow grease, some WD40, a long handled torque wrench, and a cordless impact driver (note this is not an impact wrench!). For those looking to tackle this themselves - be sure that you have a) help and b) the proper tools!

Weather permitting, I hope to finish the other side tomorrow and return the trailer to the earth. I'm looking forward to increased ground clearance, and will post pictures of the finished project for future reference.

It's also worth mentioning that the #11 Dexter Lift kit is only available in a tandem axle config - which means that I will have enough parts left to drop another single axle trailer. If anyone is interested in these components please let me know, I'm sure we can work something out.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:52 PM   #41
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Oh, and thanks for the heads up on the maximum distance between the 2 shock studs Andy - when all is said and done on the side I have completed that distance measured almost exactly 14 inches.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:58 PM   #42
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.... The replacement Lippert aluminum double step was so much better than the stock single step made of stamped metal; heavier constructed and looks great, though I did have to fabricate mounting brackets to tie it into the frame at various points.
Interesting - it looks like I might want to add a double step to my list of things to do as well - Steamy can you share details of your installation (parts, attachment details - welding or bolts?, etc.)
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