Dexter E-Z Lube (not NevR Lube) Axles

[Al and Missy]

I am considering these for my axle replacement project. It appears they have the advantages of the NevR Lube system without the disadvantage of the expensive bearing cartridge. As with NevR Lube, you remove the grease cap which exposes a zerk fitting. You add grease while rotating the wheel until clean grease comes out around the outer bearing. It appears that grease seals, bearing cones and bearing cups are standard industry parts making them less expensive to carry as spares or more obtainable on the road.

Has anyone used this hub system or its Tie-Down brand equivalent, and if so, what was your experience?

Thanks,

Al

[Al and Missy]

I found some information on other brand's forums. It appears that over-pressurization with grease causing a blowout of grease at the seal and resultant contamination of the brakes is common, although every case I found was related to drum brakes. I can imagine that the brake drum would be more likely to capture the grease blow-by than a disc brake system, but I'm leaning toward conventional hubs as I'd rather maintain the bearings in the conventional manner than take the risk of brake failure due to contamination. Would a grease leak from the rear seal likely contaminate the disc rotor and pads?

The consensus of those posts I found was that the EZ-Lube and NevR Lube axles lulled owners into a false sense of security and periodic removal of the hubs with bearing inspection and re-packing was an important maintenance activity that should not be neglected. Here again the EZ Lube axles provide a benefit in that one could always change the maintenance process to periodic removal and inspection since the bearings and seals are common parts.

What to do, what to do....

Al

[TouringDan]

A&M

I don"t have any experience yet but I will have.

I just finished installing new axles in my 66 Tradewind with the easylube fitting in the end of the spindle. Next I will be installing disc brakes. You can read about it in Dan's 66 Tradewind Improvements post 116.

Dan

[overlander63]

The rubber plug in the end of the dust cap is another failure point, allowing grease to come out and dirt and water to get in.
Nobody has ever offered any explanation of a true advantage to this system. You still have to remove the drum assemblies to clean, inspect, and adjust the brakes, and when you do that, you need to clean and repack the wheel bearings and replace the grease seals. After you do that, and re-assemble everything, you then have to find a grease gun, and fill the hub with grease. Sounds like, instead of the touted convenience, it makes for more work, an extra step in maintenance, a larger possibility for seal failure, and does nothing in return.

[rbs]

I have the E-Z lube axles on my boat trailers, and wouldn't have anything else for that application. It allows grease to reach the inside bearing, something the "Buddy Bearing" setup didn't accomplish very well. Grease is pumped thru the spindle and exits at the rear bearing then pushes grease toward the outside bearing. The rubber plug/covers have held up well, never lost one, but have replaced due to deterioration. Not certain that I would want to use them on the Airstream, as eventually the grease seals do leak. I haven't had a bearing failure since using them, but apples and oranges, boats and Airstreams, no brakes on my boat trailers.

[Aerowood]

I have the Dexter E-Z lube on my GT. Never had a problem, but I just pump in a few squirts between bearing inspections. I would never pump in grease until it extrudes out the seals. IMHO that just blows the seals out and creates bigger problems. Most people over-grease anyway. The hub does not have to be packed full of grease to be properly greased.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by overlander63

The rubber plug in the end of the dust cap is another failure point, allowing grease to come out and dirt and water to get in.
Nobody has ever offered any explanation of a true advantage to this system. You still have to remove the drum assemblies to clean, inspect, and adjust the brakes, and when you do that, you need to clean and repack the wheel bearings and replace the grease seals. After you do that, and re-assemble everything, you then have to find a grease gun, and fill the hub with grease. Sounds like, instead of the touted convenience, it makes for more work, an extra step in maintenance, a larger possibility for seal failure, and does nothing in return.

I'm dumping my drum brakes as they do not seem to have adequate stopping power for my 9100# trailer. I have adjusted them with little to no improvement. Drums and shoes are in good condition. I posted a poll on here and the consensus was that it is not possible to lock the 12x2 electric brakes on the heavier trailers. If you can't lock the brakes you can't adjust the brake controller to the point just before the brakes lock up. Kodiak advertises, and owners of retrofitted trailers have confirmed, up to 50% decrease in stopping distance. Given that I will not be doing the drum brake maintenance, it seems that the E-Z Lube (not NevR Lube) axles would be a good choice. If they don't work out I'll buy or fabricate some metal grease caps for the hubs and do conventional maintenance. As I read the spec sheets and replacement parts lists, the E-Z lube axles use conventional bearings and seals as opposed to the expensive NevR Lube bearing cartridge.

Al

[TouringDan]

I just installed disc brakes with the easy lube spindles in my 66 Tradewind (see post #128). I like the easy lube spindles very much as it appears that the grease goes through both bearings when new grease is added. Another advantage of disc brakes is that it is not possible to get grease onto the braking surfaces if the grease blows out the back of the failed grease seal.

Here are some photos.

Dan

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Nobody has ever offered any explanation of a true advantage to this system. You still have to remove the drum assemblies to clean, inspect, and adjust the brakes, and when you do that, you need to clean and repack the wheel bearings and replace the grease seals. After you do that, and re-assemble everything, you then have to find a grease gun, and fill the hub with grease. Sounds like, instead of the touted convenience, it makes for more work, an extra step in maintenance, a larger possibility for seal failure, and does nothing in return.

Agreed! Also, I don't like the keepers for the castle nuts. I'd much rather use a cotter pin, with a conventional hub.

I have the E-Z Lube hubs, but treat them as conventional hubs - I simply pack the bearings, rather than waste a tube and a half of grease filling four hubs.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by AlbertF

Agreed! Also, I don't like the keepers for the castle nuts. I'd much rather use a cotter pin, with a conventional hub.

I have the E-Z Lube hubs, but treat them as conventional hubs - I simply pack the bearings, rather than waste a tube and a half of grease filling four hubs.

Albert

Since I now have disc brakes, no need to inspect or adjust anything in the hub. After using the E-Z lube feature to grease my newly installed hubs today, I am convinced that it does a great job of getting the new grease into the bearings. BTW, I think it took a little over half of a tube total for all four hubs. Of course if you have drum brakes and are used to the traditional method then that is ok too.

Dan

[AlbertF]

Disc brake hubs must have less volume inside. Yes, it is a good system for pumping grease through the bearings (spin the tire as you pump) but I've had no trouble the old way.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by AlbertF

Disc brake hubs must have less volume inside. Yes, it is a good system for pumping grease through the bearings (spin the tire as you pump) but I've had no trouble the old way.

AlbertF

Thanks for the tip about spinning the tire when adding grease.

Dan

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by overlander63

The rubber plug in the end of the dust cap is another failure point, allowing grease to come out and dirt and water to get in.
Nobody has ever offered any explanation of a true advantage to this system. You still have to remove the drum assemblies to clean, inspect, and adjust the brakes, and when you do that, you need to clean and repack the wheel bearings and replace the grease seals. After you do that, and re-assemble everything, you then have to find a grease gun, and fill the hub with grease. Sounds like, instead of the touted convenience, it makes for more work, an extra step in maintenance, a larger possibility for seal failure, and does nothing in return.

…I have this ez lube with rubber plug on my boat trailer..which is submerged every outing…never any trouble…same as mr car trailer…just a shot of grease and it is good for many miles…I have never blown out a seal

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I'm dumping my drum brakes as they do not seem to have adequate stopping power for my 9100# trailer. I have adjusted them with little to no improvement. Drums and shoes are in good condition. I posted a poll on here and the consensus was that it is not possible to lock the 12x2 electric brakes on the heavier trailers. If you can't lock the brakes you can't adjust the brake controller to the point just before the brakes lock up. Kodiak advertises, and owners of retrofitted trailers have confirmed, up to 50% decrease in stopping distance. Given that I will not be doing the drum brake maintenance, it seems that the E-Z Lube (not NevR Lube) axles would be a good choice. If they don't work out I'll buy or fabricate some metal grease caps for the hubs and do conventional maintenance. As I read the spec sheets and replacement parts lists, the E-Z lube axles use conventional bearings and seals as opposed to the expensive NevR Lube bearing cartridge.

Al

…13 31’ Classic with 7900# on axles…1050#s tongue weight..I have locked my brakes up….ended up with a flat tread…

[carl2591]

we use "bearing buddy" exclusively on our boat at the coast so you are shoving them in salt water. When we got a new trailer or had to repack the bearing we filled the cavity with grease, added the cap on and pump till the spring was push all the way out.. (spinning the wheel the first time).. after that every year at the start of season and end of season and during the season pump till spring was pushed out.. that did get a bit of grease oozing out the seal but that kept the cavity full so no water would get in.. never had a bearing fail in 10 yrs of salt water usage..

same would not work on shoe brake trailers.. disk yes.. not at fan of no lube or ez lube.. I would rather repack the bearing by hand every so often my self.

Originally Posted by rbs

I have the E-Z lube axles on my boat trailers, and wouldn't have anything else for that application. It allows grease to reach the inside bearing, something the "Buddy Bearing" setup didn't accomplish very well. Grease is pumped thru the spindle and exits at the rear bearing then pushes grease toward the outside bearing. The rubber plug/covers have held up well, never lost one, but have replaced due to deterioration. Not certain that I would want to use them on the Airstream, as eventually the grease seals do leak. I haven't had a bearing failure since using them, but apples and oranges, boats and Airstreams, no brakes on my boat trailers.