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Old 11-14-2012, 09:12 PM   #1
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1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
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Best deal for axles and where to get them for my '76 Overlander?

Looking for some direction... I see some threads of people having to re-drill the mounting holes and measure/ correct for out of alignment.. Also, see that some have to weld on shock mounts...

I dont want to do any of that if I can help it. Looking for a direct replacement that I can bolt on and go. Is there anything sold ready to go?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Micky
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:19 PM   #2
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Axles

I recently replaced the axles on my 76 Trade Wind with axles I purchased from Inland RV and they fit perfectly out of the box. I had also read the stories of having to modify the new axles and was a bit apprehensive, but the job turned out to be much easier than I expected.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:32 PM   #3
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So did they mount right up to the existing holes? Did you have to weld on shock mounts?
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:49 PM   #4
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Since your trailer is a mid 70's unit. You should be able to get a direct bolt up replacement with shock mounts.
There may be someone here who has done this on a trailer like yours.
I bought the axles for my '74 Argosy from Inland RV. They are manufactured by Axis.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:50 PM   #5
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They did line up perfectly with the existing holes and the shock mounts also lined up. I really just removed and replaced. I would speak with Andy at Inland RV to make sure you order the correct axle.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
Looking for some direction... I see some threads of people having to re-drill the mounting holes and measure/ correct for out of alignment.. Also, see that some have to weld on shock mounts...

I dont want to do any of that if I can help it. Looking for a direct replacement that I can bolt on and go. Is there anything sold ready to go?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Micky
Please be aware that freight added to the cost of an axle, should also be considered.

Down grades should never be considered.

Andy
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:41 AM   #7
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1972 31' Sovereign
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The axles we got from Inland were a direct bolt on. No drilling required. They came with the shock studs welded on too. We upgraded from the original 10" brakes to 12" brakes. If memory serves, freight added about $200 to the price. They were a no hassle installation and worth every penny.

Chris
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:53 AM   #8
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Biloxi , Mississippi
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I would suggest that you contact Colin Hyde for your new axles. Excellant gentleman to do business with.
https://sites.google.com/a/colinhyde...ions.com/home/

Disclaimer: I do not work for him, just a happy customer.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:48 AM   #9
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There are some basic things to consider when replacing torsion axles.

1. NEVER, EVER down grade the brakes from 12 inch to 10 inch, just to save some money.

Ten inch brakes have a stopping power of 3500 pounds, per axle, when adjusted correctly.

Twelve inch brakes have a stopping power of 6000 pounds, per axle, when adjusted properly.

The smaller the brakes, the faster they fade.

2. Consider what may happen if the brakes failed on the tow vehicle. It can and does happen. How would you then bring the rig to a controlled stop, with 10 inch brakes on a 31 foot Airstream?

3. Upgrade the weight rating. The cost does not increase one penny.

4. Never lubes are OK, BUT, they very strongly convince an owner to ignore the brake condition, which must be inspected every 10,000 miles, to assure safety. Also never lubes use different parts that are not stock items. If you have a problem, the parts can only be special ordered, since no one stocks them.

5. Self adjusting brakes, cost a little more, but they have completely taken over regular electric brakes popularity.

6. New style hub and drums are one piece machined. Older style hub and drums are either 2 or 3 piece, and more often than not are way out of balance, that many times is difficult to correct.

7. Consider installing Centramatic balancers. They take care of the balancing issue from the start and especially as the tires wear.

8. Increasing the starting angle, carries many benefits. It raises the trailer so that it's easier to hook up to our today's high profile tow vehicles. It also helps to stop the rear end from dragging on some inclines.

9. Replace the hardware with grade 8 material. Using soft bolts and nuts, is not a good idea. Yes, grade 8 hardware costs more, but it's reliability is far superior.

10. Replace the shocks. Shocks are not very expensive, AND are an absolute requirement to help the trailer with it's required "soft ride".

11. Never store a torsion axle equipped trailer for a long period of time. The rubber rods must be exercised to stay alive. Tow the rig for a few miles at least every 18 to 24 months. Or, suspend the trailer on some jack stands.

Andy
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:09 AM   #10
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NEVER, EVER down grade the brakes from 12 inch to 10 inch, just to save some money.

Ten inch brakes have a stopping power of 3500 pounds, per axle, when adjusted correctly.

Twelve inch brakes have a stopping power of 6000 pounds, per axle, when adjusted properly.

The smaller the brakes, the faster they fade.
Andy, a bit off topic to '76 O'landers -- but my '06 Safari has Dexters installed after the factory dropped Henschen in late '04 for bearing lube QC issues. Do those Dexters have 10" or 12" brakes?

Ignore the man behind the curtain. Please, everybody else keep reading and responding about Overlanders.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:54 AM   #11
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Andy, a bit off topic to '76 O'landers -- but my '06 Safari has Dexters installed after the factory dropped Henschen in late '04 for bearing lube QC issues. Do those Dexters have 10" or 12" brakes?

Ignore the man behind the curtain. Please, everybody else keep reading and responding about Overlanders.
Bob.

The brakes could be 10 or 12 inch.

The easiest way to tell, is to look at the backside of the brake backing plate.

If it's mounted to a square plate, that will have 4 bolts, which is 10 inch.

If it's mounted to a round plate that has 5 bolts, then it's 12 inch.

Andy
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:13 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
Looking for some direction... I see some threads of people having to re-drill the mounting holes and measure/ correct for out of alignment.. Also, see that some have to weld on shock mounts...

I dont want to do any of that if I can help it. Looking for a direct replacement that I can bolt on and go. Is there anything sold ready to go?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Micky
Thank you Andy. And back to the thread already in progress...
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:49 AM   #13
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I have been researching axle upgrades. I have been told that Dexter will not supply axles with the shock bracket, you need to have them welded on at your expense, no matter who you get them from. Axis I cannot answer for.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:00 PM   #14
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I have been researching axle upgrades. I have been told that Dexter will not supply axles with the shock bracket, you need to have them welded on at your expense, no matter who you get them from. Axis I cannot answer for.
Axis through Colin Hyde will provide shock mounts pre-welded on their axles. They also use the no-hole-drilling mounts.
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