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Old 12-20-2007, 09:23 PM   #1
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Bearing race question for the experts.

I am in the process of changing wheel bearings. After pressing the new outboard race into the hub, the race spins. This didn't seem right, so I asked my dad for advice. Sure enough, he says bearing races aren't supposed to spin. He called a friend who advised us to use a cold chisel to check mark around the area where the race sits. This will add significant friction to the area and keep the race from spinning. Sounds like it will work, but I would like to get a few opinions. So...what do you guys think?

Merry Christmas,
Jim Showers
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:02 PM   #2
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The method you describe is a great shadetree technique. A machinist would chuck it up on a lathe and use a knurling tool.

I would use either method, if new drums weren't so inexpensive.
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:25 PM   #3
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A center punch will do the same thing. Makes little craters. As the punch goes into the cast iron, some of the material is lifted out around the edge of the hole. Every 1/4 inch or so, perhaps two rows offset. Should work just fine.
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Foster
A center punch will do the same thing. Makes little craters. As the punch goes into the cast iron, some of the material is lifted out around the edge of the hole. Every 1/4 inch or so, perhaps two rows offset. Should work just fine.
Hi, I call this a Mickey Mouse repair, but in a pinch, [parts or money not readily available] we used to use the center punch method, punching randomly all around the race area and install race with red loctite. This will work, but first, check to see if the old race had spun in the hub or that the new race is the correct size. Was the old race tight when you drove it out? If so double check everything before trying this fix.
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:18 AM   #5
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Bearings that have spun in their bores, is usually caused by improper adjustment, contaminated lube that doesn't allow the bearing to rotate, old age or the vehicle is operated over-loaded. The best repair is always a new part. I have worked on commerical trucks for many years, and have seen bearing bores center punched, as stated above, it is a shade tree type of repair. All you end up with is a bunch of little high spots trying to hold the bearing in place. Under load the high spots beat down and the bearing spins again. even if adjusted correctly and lube is clean. If cost of the new part is a problem, use one of these Loctite products, 638 retaining compound, my first choice and 2nd would be Loctite 603. They will do a much better job of holding the bearing race in place. Keep everything clean and adjust the bearings correctly, .001 to .005 of end-play would work. Good Luck
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:45 PM   #6
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Thanks for the great advice. I went with the cold chisel and red loctite method (a new drum costs 75 dollars in Pensacola.) I really appreciate the way you responded so quickly. This is twice that I've asked the forum for advice and gotten the same wonderful response each time.

Merry Christmas ,

Jim
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Old 12-21-2007, 10:25 PM   #7
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You can bed the race in lead wool.
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:03 AM   #8
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I can not concure with the lead wool approach. You can not guarentee it will properly retain the alignment the bearing. I am not sure you want to use Red Loctite, if you ever want to get the bearing race out some time in the future. Ask the local bearing guy if blue grade would be enough. I have used red grade to replace welding in the past for OEM driveshaft assembly. If you have to replace the roller bearing element, you should replace the race at the same time as the angles can vary a little from manufacturer to manufacturer and that can lead to premature failure.
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:16 AM   #9
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Here we have two versions of red Loctite, low strength and high strength.
Low strength red would be more than enough, while little short of a plasma cutter will remove the race if you use high strength.
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Old 12-22-2007, 10:11 AM   #10
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Uh... I've got to ask a question. Why is the race spinning in the hub?
This is not a normal condition, with the proper race and an undamaged hub. I would want to find out the reason for the loose fit. I would suggest that you might want to bring it to a machine shop to find out what is going on with the hub, cracked, beat out, overheated...
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Old 12-22-2007, 03:15 PM   #11
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Agree with Janetshusband why is it spinning? Wrong parts? bad hub? If going the locktite routine, I dont recall the number but green stud and bearing retainer would be the one to use.
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Old 12-22-2007, 03:29 PM   #12
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I have to go with the "why is it spinning" crowd. While there are ways to get around a problem you may be fixing a sympton and not a cause.
Could be you have a new race & bearing that is out of spec.
If you do the quick fix remember a spinning race can cause a complete axle failure so make sure you get it right.

Garry

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Old 12-22-2007, 04:41 PM   #13
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As several others have pointed out by now, notwithstanding that there are several ways to tighten a bearing race in the drum or hub assembly, they should ALL be considered stop-gap solutions. Bearing races are a "press' fit, period(the press could be a hammer and a brass drift). If you cannot get an oversize hub recess welded up and recut to size, then replace it.
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Old 12-22-2007, 05:28 PM   #14
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Safety

I cannot imagine anyone wanting to "dimple fit" a race in place.

Surely they would have absolutely "NO" regard for their safety or anyone else.

A lost wheel, locked wheel and the like, can and "DOES" cause roll overs and absolute "LOSS OF CONTROL."

GUARANTEED

Andy
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