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Old 06-28-2004, 06:24 PM   #43
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
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Tom

I have two thoughts - one as I mentioned is go find a new trailer and see how the axle reacts to your movement. The second is I would look at the arms and see how they are positioned - if they are pointing up, more than 5 degrees or so, then I would replace them.

Don't know if you can tell on my 75 in the photos, but my wheels look like yours. From that they look fine - I even had a very reputable A/S dealer check my axles and they said they were fine. Mine are about 5 degrees in the "up" position. They said that there really is not much swing in the arms - perhaps 2 in or so. Also, I talked to Henshion awhile back and they said that if your getting uneven wear they should be replaced. They also said that up to 10:00 is ok and should go down to 4:00 unweighted.

Having said all of this, I think my trailer needs axles. When I jumped around in a new trailer, the difference was dramatic - much more bouncier than my (1975) trailer - mine is very stiff when you jump in it. I probably won't replace mine as I fixing up a 1958 (love those 50's trailers) and as I watch my trailer during travel all seems to be holding up well. I'm also know that my trailer sat unused from 1982 until 2002 when I bought it.

I am putting new axles on the 58 because I want all new running gear.

I also think that axles are relatively inexpensive insurance that will give you peace of mind knowing that running gear is all new with zero miles. The new axles are balanced better. I've known several who have broken spindles because of age.

Regards

Ken
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:52 PM   #44
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1964 26' Overlander
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Axel replacement - 64 Overlander

Here are some pictures of last weekends axel replacement on the 64 Overlander. The first pictures show the axels after they were removed. The trailing arm only has a slight down angle, even with no load on the axel.

We gained 3.5 inches of ride height with the new axels and the Reese dual cam had to be adjusted from the lowest setting available on the ball mount to the highest setting available with out flipping the drop mount over.
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:02 PM   #45
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Mark

Looks great - if I remember right, you all are signed up for the VAC rally again this year - your trailer was one of my highlights from last year, still look at the pictures I took of your trailer for inspiration that maybe my 58 will look as good. Ellyn and I enjoyed meeting y'all last yr. Should be a great ride with those new axles!

Ken
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:04 PM   #46
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1964 26' Overlander
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Axel replacement - 64 Overlander

I really did not want to weld the shock brackets to the new axel trailing arms if I could find another solution. We decided to extend three of the backing plate bolts by replaceing them with grade 8 bolts that were .5 inches longer that the originals. We had the shock brackets machined to fit around the new axel and drilled to mount over the extended backing plate bolts. A second nut and lock washer were then added to secure the shock bracket and the new shock was then installed.
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:09 PM   #47
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1964 26' Overlander
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Thanks Ken,
Becky and I enjoyed meeting you as well and look forward to seeing you again the end of next month. I am amazed that almost a year has already passed.
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:40 PM   #48
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1967 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Using cinder blocks to support the weight of an Airstream, is an E-ticket ride to a casket.

Unfortunately, the people you could ask, are no longer with us.

Safety, Safety, can it "ever" be preached too much???
Gee Andy,

No word about the axles. I take it they look okay for now. Thanks for looking at the thread.

Like I mentioned earlier - they are concrete blocks, which are not the same thing as cinder blocks. I have no desire to sway you either on their merit. Around here, houses are built with them. Properly used, they are fine.

I did not ask about the people.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 06-30-2004, 10:40 AM   #49
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Tom.

Axles look great.

We couldn't do better.

Andy
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