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Old 05-21-2004, 01:45 PM   #15
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Andy, I measured it and it's 1 7/8 inches. I saw in previous posts where one person with a 67 Caravel had to make a steel extension in order to install his new axel. It's in this thread

axels

So by knowing that measurement will the new axels be made to fit my trailer without any fancy welding? I'm still worried about the shock mounts too, but I'm sure we can tackle that as well.

Is there any benefit to ordering a complete axel? I have new brakes and backing plates (just a couple years old), on my Caravel already. Can I just get a bare axel and swap them over, or is there some reason it would be better to buy a complete axel?
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Old 05-21-2004, 02:11 PM   #16
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good axles?

Is anyone willing to post a photo of their rig with NEW axles? I thought I saw a shot somewhere on this forum a while back. I have searched and not come up with it.

Connie
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Old 05-21-2004, 02:21 PM   #17
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check this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Penguin
Is anyone willing to post a photo of their rig with NEW axles? I thought I saw a shot somewhere on this forum a while back. I have searched and not come up with it.

Connie
Greetings Connie..
Check user "pick" . On his photos, he shows a new one installed without the wheels attached..
ok?
ciao
53FC
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Old 05-23-2004, 12:22 PM   #18
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Penguin.

We replaced the axles on 1969 31 foot Airstream some two years ago.

Attached is a photo showing the the wheel well opening with respect to the vertical position of the tires and wheels.

Andy
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Old 05-23-2004, 01:11 PM   #19
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Stefrobrts.

The axle mounting plate that protrudes 1 7/8 inch below the frame is for the original "mounting brackets." That bracket has not been used for over 30 years.

The new brackets require a minimum of 3 1/2 inches.

However, the 1 7/8 thats available on your Airstream can still be used, without adding any extensions.

We also supply, for installations such as yours, a 1/2" hardware kit instead of the original 5/8" kit. This permits placing a new axle into position within the axle mounting plate, drilling three 1/2 holes through the new axle bracket and axle mounting plate.

Two holes should be forward of the axle tube and one rearward. This then completes the physical installation, without having to add anything to the original axle mounting plate, thus saving time and money.

There is no need to extend the axle mounting plate in your case. All it would allow you to do, is use the 5/8 holes in the axle brackets, but you still would have to drill 5/8 holes in the axle mounting plate extensions. Most of the time, individuals can drill a 1/2 hole, since they do not have a drill motor that can handle a 5/8" drill bit.

Shock brackets are usually not installed on the torsion arms when the replacement axle is for the older small trailers. It appears that infield installation of those brackets solves the location problem, as somewhat different clearances for some unknown reason, was used.

Welding the shock brackets on, will not hurt the rubber rods, nor void any warranty, as long as the installation of the brackets is done in a reasonable, professional way. Unreasonable would be welding the brackets in place with a torch, as an example.

Henschen as well as Inland RV Center, cannot guarantee that the original or replacement brakes, bearings, hub and drums, will properly fit a "bare" axle.
If they did fit, that's great, but if they don't, there is nothing that Henschen or we can help you with, since it was the owners choice.

In that context, a complete axle eliminates that question.

Further, it is a well known fact that the older hub and drums are usually way out of balance. New style hub and drums are "unicast" and therefore, are superior. They still may not be in balance, but they are not nearly as far "out of balance" as the old style hub and drums. Therefore, while it is still best to have the complete running gear balanced as an assembly, a balanced tire and wheel only, should not cause any major problems. It could, but probably not.

Using the old style hub and drums, would almost guarantee a problem of excessive unbalance.

Lastly, should an owner purchase a "bare" axle, and find that the parts they have will for any reason not work correctly, and then order the additional parts to change the axle to complete as if originally supplied that way, they will wind up paying for more than the original price, not only for the parts, but additional shipping costs.

We trust this answers your questions.

Andy
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Old 05-23-2004, 01:41 PM   #20
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Thanks for the very complete answers, Andy! That helped a lot.
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Old 05-26-2004, 10:28 AM   #21
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Hi All

Can anyone give us an idea about our axles? I know it is hard to tell from pictures but here is two.

One is the underside.

I read your article Andy and the small graphic you have showing negative, parallel to Positive is a great reference but I was not sure - is the round hole positioned to the wheel and the square hole to the shock? or vice-versa??

Second one showing how she sits - note the tongue is a bit high in the front just got back and have not leveled her but you can see where the frame sits to the wheel.

So do you think we need a new axle?

Things seem to get tossed around in the trailer - not as much as we thought but enough.

Can you just change the shocks? if the Axle is still good? How do you tell if the shocks are gone?

Any help would be very much appreciated.
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Old 05-26-2004, 10:38 AM   #22
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It appears from your photo that the torsion arm is slightly upwards.

When the trailer is loaded for travel, the torsion arm will move further "upward."

When this happens, the internal travel of the torsion arms have reached their limit and the trailer will bottom out.

That might explain why your trailer had a "rough ride."

It also appears that your shocks are the originals. Replacing them certainly would be order.

Andy
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Old 05-26-2004, 12:28 PM   #23
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Hi Andy;

I know it is hard to tell from the picture - as I could not get a straight on from the wheel side facing into the torsion arm - but it is more like your paralell diagram with the point where the shock is bolted in point below the paralell of the frame.

So as my question previous what is point up the shock end or wheel end of the torsion bar???

You mention the shocks can be changed - what do we get for the 69 GlobeTrotter single axle??? 21 foot. And are they fairly simple to change???

Thanks
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Old 06-01-2004, 03:42 PM   #24
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bad axle photo?

So look at the low ride of the Overlander on ebay today, #2480288709.

It is sitting a lot lower than my Trade Wind and my axles, as I have often whined, are SHOT!

Connie, learning, slowly slowly learning
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Old 06-04-2004, 08:41 PM   #25
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Angry Bad Axles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Attached is a photo showing the the wheel well opening with respect to the vertical position of the tires and wheels.

Andy
Would a low riding, bad axle possibly explain why it was so hard to get my wheels/tires on my 64 Overlander. It was a fight because there just was not enough clearance in any direction. Mine does not have the clearance Andy shows it the photo

Arlene
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Old 06-04-2004, 09:19 PM   #26
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I found first hand evidence that torsion arm position is not the only sign of a bad axle. My Overlander has the torsion arms pointing down - but the rubber has gotten so hard that there is hardly any suspension evident. Of course now with the trailer gutted, it's hard to tell, but before I stripped it, the front or rear wheel woul dregularly come off the ground when going over speed bumbs, for example.
Ride height ok, but suspension still shot. New axles needed.
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Old 06-04-2004, 09:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT6921
Hi Andy;

I know it is hard to tell from the picture - as I could not get a straight on from the wheel side facing into the torsion arm - but it is more like your paralell diagram with the point where the shock is bolted in point below the paralell of the frame.

So as my question previous what is point up the shock end or wheel end of the torsion bar???

You mention the shocks can be changed - what do we get for the 69 GlobeTrotter single axle??? 21 foot. And are they fairly simple to change???

Thanks
The place the shock is bolted is not really where you look to see if the axles are too low.
If you look directly at the side of the trailer, without the tire on (impossible, but you get the idea)and the part that the brake backing plate bolts to is pointing up at all, the axle is bad. This can be seen by drawing an imaginary line level with the ground through the center of the part that pivots up and down, if the part with the backing plate has more of the backing plate above that line than below it, the axle is bad. Another way an axle can be bad, which is how mine was bad, is if the trailerleans to one side when evenly loaded, the axle must be replaced. My trailer went down the road looking like a hunchback, with one side noticeably higher than the other.
Terry
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Old 06-06-2004, 07:27 AM   #28
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1st axle in place. It took all of 30 minutes to get it situated. I set the axle at the side of the trailer on a big piece of cardboard, then dragged it underneath and aligned it to the cut out in the frame. Put 2 cinder blocks right next to it, and lifted one side at a time on to the blocks to get them higher up in the air. Then I took my 2 scissor jacks from some old Honda's I have owned, and set them on top of the blocks and lifted the axle on top of the jacks. I attached the shocks for stability, then cranked the jacks and the axle moved right up in to place. Fit like a glove... although it should have fit like an axle.

The fun will be assembling the rest of the components.
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