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Old 05-08-2007, 11:38 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by FrenchBern
Andy, why 35 degrees instead of original 22.5. I thought factory angle was 22.5 ??? I am holding my ordering for now till i get an answer.
Crispyboy, my hub to hub is 79.25"and bracket to bracket is 61 3/8". Does that sound close for a 70?

New style tow vehicles are higher profiles than many years ago. 22.5 degrees is Ok, but 35 degrees is superior. 45 degrees is out of the question. Our information indicates that Dexter will build a 22.5 or 45 degree axle.

Raising the trailer helps with the hitching problem, plus gives you a couple of inches more ground clearance, greater wheel well clearance, yet does not have any negative effects on handling.

Once again, if you make the wrong decisions, you will own the axles.

On the other hand, we can supply 2800, 3000, 3200, or 3500 pound axles for your 70-27 foot trailer all with 12 inch brakes, and with the shock brackets in place. No decisions to make.

We supply guaranteed to fit axles, the first time. No modifications necessary.

Depends on betting on a sure thing, or taking chances to save a few bucks.

Andy
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:43 AM   #16
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I went with 22.5 on a F150 4X4 with oversized tires and it is perfectly level without having to adjust my hitch. The replacement of the axles alone brought it up a couple of inches with the new axles in place...the old ones were jut shy of being at zero degree angle ...the new ones made a big difference.
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Old 05-08-2007, 12:04 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by steelbird312
Good morning Bernie,
The biggest thing that I would see as a problem with using never-lubes, is that ALMOST EVERYBODY I know that have them, has NEVER had a hub off to check for a broken brake spring or check brake lining wear or even squirted grease into the hub fitting!
Jerry, I know it was a typo, but for the benefit of future generations looking at this (not yet closed) thread, Never Lube bearings don't have grease fittings, hence the name.
The ones with the grease fittings are EZ lube.
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Old 05-08-2007, 12:04 PM   #18
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Doorgunner,
Yeah the width of this Excella II trailer is about 9 1/2" narrower than the standard trailer of the same year. I believe they refer to these as small bodied trailers. It should be just fine for my wife and myself. If I should ever decide to sell it I think the smaller size trailer whould be sought after because it can be towed by a mid-sized SUV. The manual says it weights around 3400 with the current options and about 400 lbs on the tongue weight.
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Old 05-08-2007, 12:58 PM   #19
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Overlander63 - I thought the only options for Dexter's were ez lube, never lube and oil (7000 lbs) and up.
I have standard ole' axle bearings and dust cap - just like the original. I figured that mine were just considered the ez lube.
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Old 05-08-2007, 01:07 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by crispyboy
Overlander63 - I thought the only options for Dexter's were ez lube, never lube and oil (7000 lbs) and up.
I have standard ole' axle bearings and dust cap - just like the original. I figured that mine were just considered the ez lube.

The "only" safe and sure way to know what going on with the bearings, is to repack them every 10,000 miles, or once a year, which ever is first.

Depending a lube system to take care of the bearings, is a lot of assuming.

Additionally, if a lube system is taking care of the bearings, "who" and "what" is taking care of the brakes? No one.

Therefore, the bottom line, is to pull the hub and drums every year or at 10,000 miles, check the brakes, clean up the dust, inspect for anything unusual, repack the bearings, re-assemble and then adjust the brakes.

That "will" assure many many miles of trouble free towing.

Not pulling the hub and drums because the bearings are automatically taken care of, is fool hardy, at best.

Safety is maximized through proper PM, not by assuming, ever.

Andy
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Old 05-08-2007, 01:09 PM   #21
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Andy, thanks for reply. I would think that 35 degrees would be harsher ride for the rivets because the arm being 6 inches long act as leverage and the closer to 90degree (up and down force on torsion) the least cushioning the axle would produce due to a shorter leverage. I hope you understand what I am trying to say. It's hard for me to be technical without drawing.
By the way, $8oo bucks is not a few but a bunch of money for me. If I was loaded like many Airstreamers, I would buy your axles. Thanks for advice I am researching it now.
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Old 05-08-2007, 01:11 PM   #22
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crispy, thanks for the size info- I'm likin what you have there! Sure would be a nice weekend rig!
Andy- no matter what angle you get, am I correct to assume that the total travel remains the same?
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Old 05-08-2007, 01:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBern
.... my hub to hub is 79.25"and bracket to bracket is 61 3/8". Does that sound close for a 70?
Just welded the shock supports on my new Dexters last night on the rear axle of the '78 Sovereign - 61 3/8" face to face.

The new trailing arm will have a small "ridge" where you have to weld the axle support - my measurements for the shock arm support placement were 3 1/4" outboard from the face of the mounting flange on both sides.

There was plenty of room between the brake backing and the shock support to get a stick into to get a weld on both sides of the shock mount bracket - don't forget to install the ground lead on the trailing arm only! If you ground to the axle the current will have to pass through the rubber/torque tube interface, if you try to ground to the wheel hub the current will attempt to pass through the bearings - ouch!

The weld did not get close to the rubber, and a damp rag insured that not much heat was transferred to the bearing end of the trailing arm. Neither the rubber (torque tube) end of the trailing arm nor the bearing end of the arm was warmer than "not uncomfortable to touch" throughout the entire process. I used 1/8" Metal Alloy rods with 120 amps of current with a cracker box welder and took my time between rods.

The factory cut down the #11 axles to 3600 lbs for me, and droppped shipped to the Fed-Ex truck terminal in Houston. I went with a 45 degree start. If I remember correctly from the factory specs on the web site the 45 degree start should give me only a bit over 1" more height than the 22.5 degree axles.


See this thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f219...ign-14737.html

for more info on the ordering.
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Old 05-08-2007, 02:03 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBern
Andy, thanks for reply. I would think that 35 degrees would be harsher ride for the rivets because the arm being 6 inches long act as leverage and the closer to 90degree (up and down force on torsion) the least cushioning the axle would produce due to a shorter leverage. I hope you understand what I am trying to say. It's hard for me to be technical without drawing.
Henschen disagrees.

22.5 degrees= soft ride

35 degrees= soft ride

45 degrees=trouble and a harsch ride.

Keep in mind that the starting angle drops about 15 degrees, when proper loaded.

Andy
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Old 05-08-2007, 02:05 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Andy- no matter what angle you get, am I correct to assume that the total travel remains the same?
Correct.

Keep in mind that the starting angle changes about 15 degrees, when proper loaded.

Andy
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Old 05-08-2007, 02:42 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 87MH
I went with a 45 degree start. If I remember correctly from the factory specs on the web site the 45 degree start should give me only a bit over 1" more height than the 22.5 degree axles.

The starting angles will be reduced by about 15 degrees when properly loaded.

Therefore 22.5 degrees becomes 7.5 degrees, which is 3/4 inches lift from flat.

35 degrees beciomes 20 degrees, which is 2 1/8 inch lift.

45 degrees becomes 30 degrees which is 3 inch lift.

Therefore going from a 22.5 degree starting angle to a 45 degree starting angle, both properly loaded, will increase the heighth by 2 1/4 inches.

Andy
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Old 05-09-2007, 05:33 AM   #27
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I have information by at least 2 of you who had dexter #11 axles derated below 4000# and dexter told me they will not do that.??? Did you go to the factory direct or you went through a dealer?
I guess those who used a #11 axle had to increase the hole size in the frame since a #11 is 3.03" tube and a #10 is 2.62" which will fit nicely in the present hole. My old axles are 2.683" square tube.

Andy, does airstream use 35 degrees now instead of 22.5 on new airstream and when did they start?
Finally I read from some of you that the mounting holes did not match. I measured mine to be about 9.05". Any of you know how close I am or the exact spacing they should be? Thanks a bunch again.
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Old 05-09-2007, 05:19 PM   #28
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Call Dextar and ask to speak to the their Engineering Department...they will derate their axles.
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