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Old 12-11-2007, 11:18 PM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
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Axle ?'s

How do I know if my dura torque axles, on my 68 overlander, are good or need to be replaced.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:31 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by out4trout
How do I know if my dura torque axles, on my 68 overlander, are good or need to be replaced.

The following article will help you check your axles.

Dura Torque Axle

Andy
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:54 PM   #3
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outfortrout, I'm too but actually ourforbass over the holiday until I get back to trout contry. Anyway, we have the same Airstream except mine has never been camped in by me and I have not been near it for almost 3 years. It became my name when I bought it with another one that I used extensively. Anyway, I'm going to see it next week when I get to Alabama and I will look at the Axel and report so you have a comparison.
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:17 AM   #4
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Trailers that use "torsion axles" must be put into service probably at least once a year.

Prior to 1974, the axles will go bad, if parked and not moved even in a short of period of time as one year.

Also, not exercising the rubber rods, contributes to them solidifying, again making the axle bad.

To check for solidified rubber rods, jack the trailer up on one side. The tire should drop about 4 inches or so. If they drop about 1 1/2 inches or less, the rubber rods have become solidified.

When the axles have solidified rubber rods, the trailer will bounce all over the place when towed.

New shocks won't help that situation at all.

Andy
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Old 12-12-2007, 01:03 AM   #5
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Andy just answered a question I was wondering, you need at least 4" of throw in a jack to get the tires off the ground. Probalby the real answer is closer to 6". I had to do some blocking under one axle when I was coming down with my new axles on, my hydraulic jack didn't have enough travel. By the way, thanks Andy, the axles, pads, activator, controller you sent all worked. I was just the slow one getting the job done.
Perry
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:23 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by NevadaGeo
Andy just answered a question I was wondering, you need at least 4" of throw in a jack to get the tires off the ground. Probalby the real answer is closer to 6". I had to do some blocking under one axle when I was coming down with my new axles on, my hydraulic jack didn't have enough travel. By the way, thanks Andy, the axles, pads, activator, controller you sent all worked. I was just the slow one getting the job done.
Perry
It's not the time it takes that makes and installion, but the quality of it.

Unfortunately, not everyone is qualified to undertake the task that you did.

Ahhh, but how very nice.

Another satisfied Airstream owner who switched axles (Henschen), and installed disc brakes (Kodiak).

Andy
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:01 AM   #7
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Placing jack ON the axle to change a flat?

Having bought a '69 at a very nice price I'll admit I wasn't too shocked at catching a flat on the way back home, learning the (single axle) Safari had been sitting up (on tires, not jacks) for quite a while. The PO had warned me "you probably won't be able to get a flat tire off the trailer without a large floor jack and pry bar, I'd consider AAA if I was you.." which sounded kinda fishy. Fortunately, said tire went flat parked at the beautiful DeSoto State Park in Northern Alabama and I was able to lure a local mechanic away from his fishing spot and onto my trailer. However my new buddy Norman had to place his 4-ton floor jack directly UNDER/ON the axle to get enough lift to allow the hub to drop enough to wiggle the wheel off. Is this a serious no-no? At the time I was hankerin' to get back on the road.

Much like the septoplasty I had to endure this summer (well, OK, not THAT bad) all signs keep pointing me to an impending axle replacement. Can anyone recall that unofficial rule-of-thumb (Andy?) that says something like "your wheel well should be X inches above the top of your rim with a good axle" or something like that? My torsion arm is right at zero/horizontal when loaded, but I don't want to keep paying for $90 tires if the axle is caussing the problem. thanks,

olivier
new orleans
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:13 AM   #8
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Your axles is most likely shot. But: bad axles usually do not cause tires to blow. It was most likely just an old tire degraded by the ozone in the southern states. You should likely replace the other tire also just so you are not caught on the road again. I would put lots of penetrating oil on the wheel nuts and use a pnuematic impact driver to get them off without braking the studs if that is what you have. Some early Airstreams have Wheel bolts that you are more likely to break and then you have to drill and use an eaze-out to get the remainder out of the brake drum. Have fun learning the ropes.
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
buddy Norman had to place his 4-ton floor jack directly UNDER/ON the axle to get enough lift to allow the hub to drop enough to wiggle the wheel off. Is this a serious no-no? olivier
new orleans
From what I know (not much) It is a moderately serious no no. For one if the jack slips you have unwanted ventilation of the belly pan. Us the jacking points or axle mounting plates
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Old 12-12-2007, 09:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
Having bought a '69 at a very nice price I'll admit I wasn't too shocked at catching a flat on the way back home, learning the (single axle) Safari had been sitting up (on tires, not jacks) for quite a while. The PO had warned me "you probably won't be able to get a flat tire off the trailer without a large floor jack and pry bar, I'd consider AAA if I was you.." which sounded kinda fishy. Fortunately, said tire went flat parked at the beautiful DeSoto State Park in Northern Alabama and I was able to lure a local mechanic away from his fishing spot and onto my trailer. However my new buddy Norman had to place his 4-ton floor jack directly UNDER/ON the axle to get enough lift to allow the hub to drop enough to wiggle the wheel off. Is this a serious no-no? At the time I was hankerin' to get back on the road.

Much like the septoplasty I had to endure this summer (well, OK, not THAT bad) all signs keep pointing me to an impending axle replacement. Can anyone recall that unofficial rule-of-thumb (Andy?) that says something like "your wheel well should be X inches above the top of your rim with a good axle" or something like that? My torsion arm is right at zero/horizontal when loaded, but I don't want to keep paying for $90 tires if the axle is caussing the problem. thanks,

olivier
new orleans
When the torsion axle, torsion arm, is at zero, the axle is done.

Being level, is maybe OK, but heavier than necessary bouncing will occur. That will have a negative effect on the tires.

When loaded the trailer arm (torsion arm) should be about 10 degrees down.

A 73 23 foot single axle trailer was equipped originally with a 5000 pound Henschen axle.

Again, eventually all the axles built prior to 1974, will fail because of the incorrect composition of the rubber rods that were used. Many of them have already failed.

Andy
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