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Old 07-07-2014, 06:59 PM   #15
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1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson , North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 109
Images: 5
LOL. No disrespect to the MN contingency. It definitely helped that I had the trailer already leveled and up on blocks to replace the rear subfloor as well as having a righteous set of tools!! In all seriousness an impact wrench is an invaluable asset for the task!

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Ryan Jilek
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:13 PM   #16
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1968 26' Overlander
Duluth , Minnesota
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 93
Axle Replacement

A friend and I both replaced our axles on our '68 Overlanders with axles from Colin Hyde. Buying from Colin was 110% worth it. We sent him specs. and photos of our old axles and the new ones bolted right up. Many forum posts of folks struggling unnecessarily with misfit axles. you do not want that. The axles even came with new fasteners! (Although, some were missing from the shipment. Still need to let Colin know about that.)

My friend changed his in 4 hours by himself. The following Saturday, having already assembled the proper tools, supplies, etc. he helped me change mine and we did it in 1.5 hours. It is not difficult and can wait until you are ready to roll.

Pearls from axle replacement:

1) I started spraying the axle and shock bolts with anti-seize the first day I rolled into my driveway with the AS. I continued to do so every so often when I thought of it. All bolts came loose easily with a basic air impact wrench.

2) Figure out how you will safely lift the new axles into position. We used a floor jack and some lumber. Clearance is limited depending on how high you get it off the ground.

3) Get complete axles with brakes already installed.

3.5) Note wheel bolt hole pattern, number etc. of the wheels you intend to use and make certain that you get the proper ones.

4) Decide if you want to refinish the frame in your wheel wells while axles are off. If so, add lots of time for that.

5) We took Colin's recommendation on shocks and bought Monroe. I ordered them from Amazon. Technically, Monroe said that the shock is not intended to be mounted horizontally. Colin said he does it all the time. We didn't see a problem with that. AS sells shocks, too. Supposedly, there is something magic about them!

6) Try to avoid "residential delivery" charge on the freight ($75 in our case). If you have a forklift, skidsteer, etc. at home and can unload them, AND you don't live 5 miles down a winding single lane road, most freight companies will waive the charge for "residential delivery". Tell them to pull up to the end of your driveway and that you will unload the truck. Otherwise, pick them up at the terminal with a truck to avoid the charge. Beware, some terminals only have "dock height" loading stations so loading a pickup or trailer can be very difficult. (This is intentional so they can charge you $75!) If you can, pick up at the distributor and pay no shipping.

7) It is great to have a capable friend!

8) Be careful and safe.

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Old 07-10-2014, 10:38 PM   #17
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 74
It's gonna be frame-off...

Dropped the belly pan, and it's clearly going to have to be a frame-off restoration. The back is all rotted out, which is no surprise, but much of the frame is rotted as well. It also turns out that a PO POS repair put the banana wrap *over* the side wall, and channeled water onto the A-frame. Argh...
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:14 AM   #18
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,872
Images: 1
The Forums term is "full monte". It sounds like that will be the scope of your project. You will be an Airstream expert when you are done many months or years from now. The Overlander is a very popular model and should be worth more than you invest when it is completed, excluding your labor hours. Another vintage Airstream will get rejuvenated.

You won't need new axles for a long time. Take lots of pictures as you take things apart. Take notes too. And ask questions in these Forums. So many Airstreamers have helped me so much with my Trade Wind. Have a great time with this big project.

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Old 07-11-2014, 07:26 AM   #19
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,265
Ah yes, looks very familiar. It may surprise you to find out that the banana wrap overlapping the exterior skins and funneling water into the bellypan is not the fault of a PO--it was done this way at the factory!

I would recommend building gantry frames and lifting the shell. You can then use the frames to lift and flip your frame. It looks like you have a lot of repair work to do on the frame, which will be followed by cleaning up the rust and painting with POR-15. It all goes a lot easier if you don't spend half your time on your back.

good luck!
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Old 07-11-2014, 01:42 PM   #20
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 74
Gantry and a lift...

Printed out the gantry plans, and even my wife is resigned...

OK, first question on the shell-off: In order to drop the belly pans, I've had to drill out the rivets that hold the exterior shell to the C-Channel. I would think that I need to put some of them back in temporarily, perhaps using just Olympic rivets, to hold the shape while I pull it off and put it back on. Given the state of the frame, it'll be off for a while.

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Old 07-11-2014, 01:44 PM   #21
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 74
An etiquette question: Since it would seem that this thread is destined to turn into my renovation thread, should I change the thread name, start a new one somewhere else, not worry about it and continue?
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Old 07-11-2014, 02:37 PM   #22
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,265
You can ask a moderator to change the name on the thread and relocate if that is what you want to do, or you can start a new one elsewhere--its your choice.

If you look at the many discussions about lifting the shell, you will see that there are many forums members that insist that wooden cribbing must be installed to "hold the shape" of the shell. Others will tell you that this is unnecessary--I am of this camp. The C-channels that go along the sides of the trailer wrap around under the plywood, so the bucked rivets int these need to be drilled out. The C channels that form the curve at the ends of the trailer do not go underneath the plywood, so don't drill out these rivets. The shell will hold its shape just fine without bracing on the interior--the ribs, formed segments fore and aft, and the C channels fore and aft do a fine job of this.

The gantry lift can be intimidating just from the shear largeness of the operation, but having done mine this way, I can assure you that this is the way to go. You will get a lot of use out of the lifting frames. I feel like I've become the mad prophet preaching the benefits of the gantry to the masses, but I promise I don't have anything to sell!

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