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Old 08-26-2003, 04:38 PM   #15
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Austin Runner

Welcome to the forum, neighbor.

I live in the Dripping Springs ETJ, over on Camp Ben Road (1826). We're getting quite a "around Austin" crew here on the forum.

We tried getting together a forum rally in the spring without too much success. I would like to try again about November.
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Old 08-26-2003, 05:21 PM   #16
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I was somewhat suprised at the statement the shocks could not be changed without removing the axle. Is this a problem with a proticlar set of years or "ALL" years? I have over 80,000 miles on my 91 and had considered changing the axles but would have liked to change the shocks first. Any additional comments?
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Old 08-26-2003, 05:30 PM   #17
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Rotary Lift

Hi. Does anyone have access to one of those Rotary above-ground twin post automotive lifts? It seems it would be the perfect way to re-axle a single axle trailer, just put the lift pads under the four jack points on the trailer, and hit the "up" button.
When the old axle is ready to come out, lower the trailer, and finish removing the old axle, and lift the trailer up, slide it out from under, and the new one in place. Am I missing something? Like, the trailer will do a nose-dive from 8ft in the air? Or are the lift points far enough apart it would be stable? Any thoughts? Good, bad, or other?
Terry
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Old 08-27-2003, 09:03 AM   #18
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Hey HowieE, I can only speak to my axle/shock absorber hookup but you can check yours without removing anything. My shocks each have two attachment brackets. Each is a hole with a rubber insert that fits around a post. One post sticks out from the trailer frame and the other is part of the axle assembly. The axle assembly post points toward the frame - in fact it almost touches the frame - there is NO clearance to remove or add shocks with the axle installed.
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Old 08-28-2003, 07:41 PM   #19
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All Airstream shocks can be replaced without dropping the axles.

Use a crow bar to bend the bracket on the axle torsion arm. Leave the nut in place to protect the threads.

Won't hurt a thing.

You can also leave the bracket bent, as it will not interfer with the shock operation.

Andy

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Old 08-28-2003, 07:56 PM   #20
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Hey Andy, would you like to chime in your opinion on the proper way/places to lift my Caravel for axel replacement?
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:41 PM   #21
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No need to drop the axels to replace shocks.

It can be a tough job.

Also, if you drop the axels be sure to invest in an alignment.
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:46 PM   #22
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Hmm. I do not like to bend stuff. I imagine the shock travel to be off center, then, unless you move the bottom mount out as well. 2 inches is a lot of bending, for my taste.
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Old 08-29-2003, 08:52 AM   #23
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Stephanie.

The "ONLY" place to lift a single axle Airstream, is behind the wheels, "ON THE AXLE MOUNTING PLATE." That is also the only place to locate a "jack stand." For safety purposes, a jack stand should also be placed under the A-frame, just in case the front jack may decide to fail.

A tandem axle trailer, is lifted between the wheels, on the axle mounting plate, and the jack stands are placed behind the rear wheels, on the axle mounting plate. Again, use a jack stand under the A-frame.

A tri-axle trailer is lifted between the center and rear wheels, at the axle mounting plates. The jack stands are placed behind the rear wheels, on the axle mounting plates. Again, use a jack stand under the A-frame.

CAUTION...........

Use a hydraulic jack as well as jack stands that have an adequate or better weight rating. It is suggested to use 5 tons.

Placing a jack, or jack stand on the frame is very dangerous. If not placed "exactly correct," they can easily slip, curling the frame, and dropping the trailer.

A final word of caution. DO NOT allow anyone, not even a kid, to enter any trailer that is up on jacks or jack stands. The right movement at the right place, can cause the trailer to fall off the jacks.

To the "do it yourselfer," if your going to be under the trailer that is on jacks or jack stands, please have an observer close at hand. Their purpose is not to observe your talents, but to be a safety guard, in the event the trailer may fall off the jacks. You may have the trailer, in your opinion, safely supported. BUT, a sudden and adequate "gust of wind" can occur at any time, which in turn, could cause the trailer to fall off the jacks.

Better to be safe, than sorry, always.

Andy
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Old 08-29-2003, 03:01 PM   #24
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Hi Andy,
Thanks for chiming in and giving advice. I am glad to read that I basically did the right thing, and live to tell about it. Somehow it's much more intimidating to lift up this trailer than lifting up the van, even though the van is heavier. Maybe it's just not as fragile as the trailer.

The new axles made a big difference. I took the trailer home to wash it and try out the new axles and tires. I left in a hurry and did not put the table down or fold up the chair. I also left a plastic container in the sink with flaslights, batteries and a few big butane lighters in it.
When i arrived at home ( 30 miles, backroads) and opened the door, not only was everything in place, but it was EXACTLY in place as I remember it. The new Prodigy brake controller worked great - it and the new brakes made a huge difference.
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Old 08-29-2003, 03:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by uwe
Hi Andy,
Thanks for chiming in and giving advice. I am glad to read that I basically did the right thing, and live to tell about it. Somehow it's much more intimidating to lift up this trailer than lifting up the van, even though the van is heavier. Maybe it's just not as fragile as the trailer....
I agree, lifting the trailer is far more intimidating than any car I have worked on. I was thinking about why that is. I think it's because the trailers are so rare, I'm afraid I'll hurt it if I do something wrong and I'll never get another one. Not like I'm going to snap it in half or something, but I feel like that. I'm far more concerned about hurting it than hurting myself. I know I'm not going to get under it unless I'm 100% sure it's secure. But I'm worried about doing it wrong and hurting the trailer. And it's not like there's anyone around here you can talk to about it in person before you try something, or a handy Chilton's manual on the bench to consult during the procedure.

Or maybe we'll just drive to CA and pay Andy to take care of it all while we go spend the day at Disneyland (the hubby is voting for that option)
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:43 AM   #26
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How can you tell that the axles need replacement.
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Old 08-30-2003, 09:31 AM   #27
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Greg 176.

To determine if your axle or axles are bad, go to our web site, inlandrv.com

Click on "articles."

Click on "Dura-torque axles."

That article describes the Henschen axle, how it is made, what is does, and, how to check yours out.

Looking at an Airstream or a side photo of one, a bad axle or axles can easily be determined by just looking at the wheel area.

All of the wheel should be clearly seen along with at least an inch or two, and with some models, 3 or 4 inches of the tire.

We will post another article, very shortly, along with photos, of a trailer that had two bad axles, and, no wheel balance.

The "FRAME AND AXLE MOUNTING PLATE" are totally separated with a huge crack.

This can happen to any trailer, that has one or both of these problems.

Andy
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Old 08-30-2003, 04:14 PM   #28
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Thanks again Andy,
It looks like I will be replacing my axles on 1961 Overlander International - hope you have them in stock.
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