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Old 09-12-2012, 04:15 PM   #15
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I know that this thread is over four years old. However, I am researching information on replacement axles and I do think that a data base is a good idea.

My 1991 34' Limited has a measurement of 61.5" from outside to outside of frame (axles seem to be the same as best as I can tell (they fit flush to the frame extensions/reinforcements). The frame at the front of the trailer is 61.25". Note, all measurements were taken alongside a cross member so that there would be a constant length spacer between the parallel frame rails.

I'm also wondering why I couldn't install axles with a high profile mounting bracket along with the more standard 22.5 degree downward starting angle rather than go to 32 degree downward starting angle with the low profile hangers.

Steve
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:05 PM   #16
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I know that this thread is over four years old. However, I am researching information on replacement axles and I do think that a data base is a good idea.

My 1991 34' Limited has a measurement of 61.5" from outside to outside of frame (axles seem to be the same as best as I can tell (they fit flush to the frame extensions/reinforcements). The frame at the front of the trailer is 61.25". Note, all measurements were taken alongside a cross member so that there would be a constant length spacer between the parallel frame rails.

I'm also wondering why I couldn't install axles with a high profile mounting bracket along with the more standard 22.5 degree downward starting angle rather than go to 32 degree downward starting angle with the low profile hangers.

Steve
I'm not that familiar with the AS mounting, but I would want my rubber torsion axles in the 22-24 degree downward angle with no load. By the time you put the load on them they should be close to the level position which gives the torsion arms the most leverage. I can understand why you want that angle. I just changed the angle on my last trailer, that has Flexiride axles. It took me about 30 minutes to change both wheels. I ordered them with 24 degrees down and they came level. I changed them on the trailer and all it takes is removing one large bolt, sliding the arm off of the splines and moving them down 4 splines and replacing the one bolt. It is too bad that all the axle manufacturers don't have that versatility. If the manufacturer had messed up my order on my axle with another brand, I would have had a real issue.
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:08 PM   #17
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61.375" to be exact. Your axles already have a high profile bracket, the 2 brackets available, one is right on top of the axle beam, the second is 1" above.
Your trailer also has the larger opening for the axle tube so you can easily use a Dexter #11 beam, that'll get you 12" brake flanges. 32 will give you quite a bit of lift, you may consider upping the weight rating as you have a triple axle.

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Old 09-12-2012, 08:12 PM   #18
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M2HB,
I appreciate your feedback. I've done a little research into Flexride and looked at this brochure on line http://www.ucfamerica.com/FlexirideT...et%2011x17.pdf. It looks like their design is to have the rubber vulcanized/bonded to the cylindrical axle shaft.. I'm wondering about the durability of this if the axle were to shear away from the rubber. I like the splined torsion arm installation. Who sells these axles?

Greg,
Thanks so much for the width information. An axle width of 61 3/8" gives a nominal 1/8 inch clearance that will snug right up when the bolts are tightened to the right torque value.

I've considered the Dexter Torflex #11 with new self-adjusting brakes, 3,500 pound rating, 32 degree starting angle (although Dexter doesn't show anything other than 22.5 and 45 down in their catalog) and now high profile (thanks to your information) reverse orientation mounts. My openings are a little over 11 inches wide and the hole centers are 9 inches... which I could adjust for the Dexters. One thing that I don't know about is the hub face to hub face width of my stock 2,800 pound axles.

I'm also open to the Axis/Al-Ko/Henchen axles. I'm looking for durability and value at the end of the day.

All my best,

Steve
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:15 PM   #19
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M2HB,
I appreciate your feedback. I've done a little research into Flexride and looked at this brochure on line http://www.ucfamerica.com/FlexirideT...et%2011x17.pdf. It looks like their design is to have the rubber vulcanized/bonded to the cylindrical axle shaft.. I'm wondering about the durability of this if the axle were to shear away from the rubber. I like the splined torsion arm installation. Who sells these axles?

Greg,
Thanks so much for the width information. An axle width of 61 3/8" gives a nominal 1/8 inch clearance that will snug right up when the bolts are tightened to the right torque value.

I've considered the Dexter Torflex #11 with new self-adjusting brakes, 3,500 pound rating, 32 degree starting angle (although Dexter doesn't show anything other than 22.5 and 45 down in their catalog) and now high profile (thanks to your information) reverse orientation mounts. My openings are a little over 11 inches wide and the hole centers are 9 inches... which I could adjust for the Dexters. One thing that I don't know about is the hub face to hub face width of my stock 2,800 pound axles.

I'm also open to the Axis/Al-Ko/Henchen axles. I'm looking for durability and value at the end of the day.

All my best,

Steve
I don't think that the Flexiride would be the best choice for an AS trailer since the torsion arm is only 4-1/2" long instead of around 6", and the mounts are not the same. They are what I use when building a new trailer and I have my choice of where to mount the axles. I think that all rubber torsion axles should have removable (adjustable) torsion arms, but I also think that they should have an inner square tube sleeve that slides into the square axle tube so that the rubber can be changed easily instead of throwing away perfectly good axles every 20 years or so.

Another thing to remember is that tandem torsion axles don't have the equalizer that leaf spring axles have, which means that one axle has to take more of it's share of the load sometimes. That is why some manufacturers use a 1.25 ratio for axle ratings. An example would be that an 8,000# rated trailer would not have two 4,000# axles. They would have two 5,000# axles because each axle has to take more than 4,000# for moments when the trailer is going over large bumps or over steep terrain such as steep entrances.

By the way, Dexter makes some really good axles. I have used them in the past.

I have also used Hayes, which is now AL-KO, if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:12 AM   #20
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Abolutely splendid idea. I know when I took mine over for a lookysee they measured hub face and outside to outside of the side mount brackets and overall length of the axle.

Best I can measure on a 71 Sovereign the bolt holes are 9.300" C-C. I am getting ready to mount flat stock in my mill and drill 5/8" holes 9.300" C-C and then I am going to trace out the factory punch out on the axle mounting plate.

I was told by a Dexter dealer the heavier axles have a larger diameter cross member and that a side grinder will be required to open the frame enough for the heavier axle to slide up in. Close examination has revealed the axle tube does not contact the mounting plate and that the load is carried on the to of the right angle plate and secured by the side bolts.

Once I get one side of the frame done to fit I will mill out the plate to fit the new axle and then just take that and mount in other three holes and with a metal scribe mark the mounting plates in the other three locations to make that go quicker making sure to make sure the top of the cuts are well radiused to avoid any stress risers.

Once I get that made I will make up a drawing and post it so others can make their own templates for the Sovereign series at least.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:59 AM   #21
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CORRECTION ON ABOVE DIMENSION: It is very hard to measure the center to center hole location without a 10" set of calipers (very expensive) so I spent a half hour yesterday measuring the C-C distance three ways yesterday came up with 9.067" C-C on my 76 Sovereign yesterday. The holes are stamped in the mounting plate creating a raised area outboard on both holes and the axle cut out and are oversize a smidge.

First I took my original measurement above post and made a steel gage on my milling machine and then went up for a looksee and lo and behold it was off so I put a bolt in one hole and mounted it and took a steel scribe and marked the min and max hole separation points and this gave me a variation of .106" so I made up a gage with holes in the middle of the range and went back.

Now both axle mounting bolts go into holes with a little movement left and right. Thusly if have a 76 Sovereign the odds of your specing holes 9.067 C-C will allow you to obtain an axle that will exactly fit.

As I understand it you can go to 3700 lb axles without doing any grinding on the mounting plate as the square axle dimension is still that size up to 3700 lbs.

If you go heavier (as I am) to allow for more shock loading capability without bottoming out the square tube gets larger and you will have to grind out the big square to allow the main shaft to fit through which is not a problem.

I made a crude gage initally out of card stock paper and took a 1 lb ball peen hammer and used the round section to locate the holes. When the first axles came in I used this gage to check hole location and it was dead on with what they sent. I double checked the paper gage with the steel one I made up yesterday and the hole spacing was identical. Unfortunately the first axles had the mounting brackets reversed so they went back.

My thinking is if I used the original hole spacings the axles would be square as I really did not want to elongate any mount holes and risk an out of alignment condition.

I will take pics of new axles next to old axles before I change them out to show differences and mounting mods.
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:06 AM   #22
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My thinking is if I used the original hole spacings the axles would be square as I really did not want to elongate any mount holes and risk an out of alignment condition.

I will take pics of new axles next to old axles before I change them out to show differences and mounting mods.
In the case of it being necessary to elongate one hole, that will not change the alignment, as the other hole will not allow movement.

That's assuming that the same hole on each side of the trailer is enlarged.

Andy
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:25 PM   #23
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Andy, I agree, if I had to I would locate off forward hole and elongate rearward. Neither hole appears elongated and all 5/8 bolts/nuts were very tight.

One hole is about .035" larger than the other and apparently was punched that way.

I do like the way they are mounted without using top holes on axle. I was also surprised there was very little galvanic corrosion. When the first axle came down I thought it was going to be a disaster but wasn't.I will prep it before raising new axle into place.

I would love to see some detailed pictures by someone who has stripped away the floor and the underbelly to see the full details of the construction in that area.

I also checked thread depth and the wear on the front tires at 5000 miles of road towing is about .010" to .016". I am running 225 75 16 10 Ply light truck tires with 80 lbs in them.

Also I just picked up a IR laser thermometer so I can keep check on the tire temps in the future.
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:52 AM   #24
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I decided to bite the bullet and am making arrangements to get a 13" vernier caliper so I can make the C-C hole location measurements with a even higher confidence level. I will measure all four sets of hole locations outside to outside and inside to inside and see if there is variation from hole set to hole set.

Then we have the problem of are the California holes the same as the Jackson Center holes????? This info needs to be added to data base.
Since it is a punched plate maybe one plant stamped them and sent them to the other for uniformity.

Is there a code in the serial number or somewhere that tells where your rig was made?

I now have a template made in an elongated U configuration so I can hold it up to axle mounting bracket and make sure hole location is going to fit my rig before they are loaded on my utility trailer for trip home.

Once I got the 1" strap stock holes located on the money with bolts through mounting holes I cut the previous one in half and added a third piece for the bottom to form the elongated U and welded them in place with the second gage as a welding fixture so the holes in both gages are on the money.

My axles should be at distribution center on Friday and I can go get them and it is now going to be real fun as I just came down with gout pain in my foot. Haven't had an attack in 10 years so this is going to be fun mounting axles and I can barely walk ! ! !
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:23 AM   #25
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Is there a code in the serial number or somewhere that tells where your rig was made?
Hummer,
I hope the gout doesn't slow you down. The trailer's serial number had the code you seek.
J=Jackson Center, OH
S=Santa Fe Springs/Cerritos, CA

Good luck with your axle install.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:33 PM   #26
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So, does anyone know what my hub to hub measurement would be if my mounting brackets measure 61.375" on a 1991? Note: I'll verify all of these measurements again when I have the wheels pulled and before I order the axles.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:00 PM   #27
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#10 torsion axle, down-rated to 2800#
Straight beam (with standard toe and camber bends)
74" Hub-face to Hub-face
58" Outside Frame width
Reverse orientation
Side mount hangars
25 deg. down
Electric brakes
10" hubs (5 lugs on 4 and 1/2 centers)
Roger-Wilco, Houston. The Eagle has landed...
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:53 PM   #28
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2 different hub face dimensions for 61.375" .....80" for the #10 axles and 80.75 for the #11.

Greg
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