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Old 05-02-2015, 07:57 AM   #1
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1974 25' Tradewind
Muscle Shoals , Alabama
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Axle installation question

Just got my new replacement axles from Collin Hyde and am preparing for a weekend DIY replacement project. Can anyone tell me what the minimum requirement for tools will be? Don't want to get started and not have the necessary tools. Any help would be appreciated. I have a set of heavy duty ramps and a couple of jack stands. Will an impact wrench be necessary to get the axle bolts out? Its a 41 year old trailer with the original axles still installed.
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:15 AM   #2
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Check the bolt and nut sizes ASAP hand have them on hand. Impact will be handy but you may have trouble getting to one set that may be behind one of the tanks, depending on year, so a pipe to fit over the box wrench would be nice. That is a Philadelphia helper if you don't know the term.

I made a cradle to support the axles so their center of gravity, front to rear, would allow me to lift them with a floor jack. If you don't have someting like this the axles want to rotate downwards and getting the bolts to line up will take 2 friends to rotate them into position as the jack lifts the axles.
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:21 AM   #3
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axles

Start now spraying all the nuts and exposed threads with WD-40,spray marvel mystery oil, and a rust cutter spray. Spray them every day you can. Take propane or mapp gas( Mapp is hotter), and heat the nuts at the end of the day. Let them cool, respray them...let them sit overnight. Repeat the next day. As the nut expands and contracts, it starts to break free.
Do not put direct heat to the thread area...the nut only. Also, spray the shock absorber nuts and bolts.
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:58 AM   #4
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Don't forget to put shocks on axles before lifting in place or you will drop axles to put shocks on. I very well no this, only made mistake once first axle, several choice words did not correct mistake. Another tip, if nuts won't budge. Turn to titen, then to off, work both ways with moderation as this works sometimes, better than broken bolts
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Old 05-02-2015, 03:49 PM   #5
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I found that both a moving dolly and a small floor jack were necessary when doing the job by myself.

You could probably get by with only one of the above if you could ply one of your friends with beer to help you.

If you have to drill a new hole have a good punch and good bits for a pilot hole and the finish sized hole.

Make sure you line up both sides with a string after the axles are installed.

Finish one axle prior to unfastening the second.

The shock installation is always problematic. You will most likely have to bend at least one axle mount (if not both) to get the shocks on.
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:25 PM   #6
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Just curious guys, as I have a moho, not a trailer, at least for now.

Re bolts for axles.....would it not be safer and easier to torch or using a cut off wheel to cut the old ones off and replace with brand new grade 5 or 8 bolts? It just seems a waste of time to reuse something that you may have significantly reduced its strength, by heat and stress in removing; especially as it's a significant piece of your trailer.

IMHO I would cut the head off and drive it out with a drift or punch. Bolts are cheap, lives and lawsuits are not.

Cheers
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:21 PM   #7
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Smile new axles

Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH View Post
I found that both a moving dolly and a small floor jack were necessary when doing the job by myself.

You could probably get by with only one of the above if you could ply one of your friends with beer to help you.

If you have to drill a new hole have a good punch and good bits for a pilot hole and the finish sized hole.

Make sure you line up both sides with a string after the axles are installed.

Finish one axle prior to unfastening the second.

The shock installation is always problematic. You will most likely have to bend at least one axle mount (if not both) to get the shocks on.
You do not have to bend 1 axle mount. I made mistake raising 1 axle then had to drop to install shock.
As I stated before PUT SHOCKS ON BEFORE RAISING AXLE....NO Mickey mouse bending of axle mounting plate. Do it rite first time......Also I did not use string to check, everything was good. I agree finish first axle before starting second axle. I have been there and done this. Heed my instructions. Also ask Colin, he will tell you same, put shocks on before raising axles into place. Plus many miles since replacement of axles and every thing tracks true
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:35 PM   #8
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Follow up I'm 81 yrs. old replaced both axles my 76 AS 31ft. 2 yrs. ago by myself. And no, I'm not macho man just have many tools and willing to do things.
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:20 PM   #9
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The new axles will come with new mounting bolts.

You wont NEED an impact, but a good one makes stuck fasteners not much of a problem, and the job less laborious and less hazardous. (It can really hurt when a wrench slips off or a socket breaks when a person is pulling really hard.)

I am way spoiled, i love impact wrenches, I have a slew of them from 1/4" drive to 1" drive...

The bolts on my 1972 axles were not badly stuck or badly rusted at all and were reusable had I needed them.


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Old 05-02-2015, 09:25 PM   #10
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I have a really nice DeWalt 1/2" drive rechargeable impact that I hardly use anymore...

It is a great tool, but I use mostly air tools for 1/2" drive stuff...

If anyone on the forum wants it, make me an offer. It is clean and lightly used. The batteries are about five or six years old, though they seemed good last time I tried them.


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Old 05-03-2015, 04:30 AM   #11
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You've gotten lots of good advice. I will second the bolt pre spray with your product of choice...we used PB Blaster and soaked bolts for several days. Our Kobalt Impact Wrench was a time saver. As others stated, put your shocks on prior to installation. Last but not least, block your other wheel if you are doing one axle at a time. Post a picture or two...good luck!

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Old 05-03-2015, 05:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunner View Post
You've gotten lots of good advice. I will second the bolt pre spray with your product of choice...we used PB Blaster and soaked bolts for several days. Our Kobalt Impact Wrench was a time saver. As others stated, put your shocks on prior to installation. Last but not least, block your other wheel if you are doing one axle at a time. Post a picture or two...good luck!

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Indiana, PA

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PB Blaster is the schnizzle....exactly what I use.
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Old 05-03-2015, 10:21 PM   #13
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I use kroil or pb blaster if haven't any kroil as I believe u can only be pur. kroil on line. but pb is lmost as good and readily avbl. every where also less money.
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:23 AM   #14
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Thank you all for all the good advice! I will get started spraying ASAP and maybe be able to get those axles off and replaced this coming weekend.
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:58 PM   #15
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Been dreading this myself. I got new axles and they've been sitting for a while. From measuring the old bolt holes, axle tube size and distances between them on the trailer and comparing with the new axle mounting plates it's become obvious that the bolt hole spacing on mine are different, and the new tube diameter is larger. So I'm expecting to need to enlarge the notch that the old axle tubes fit up into so the new axle tubes will fit into them. Planning on using the old front bolt holes to attach to the holes on the new axle figuring that this will keep the axle alignment good, but this seems like it will mean the aft bolt holes will not line up (they'll overlap some), so I'd have to figure out how to enlarge one of the rear holes or drill a completely new hole somewhere else on the rear plate. From measurements it doesn't seem like the simple drop the old axle and throw in the new axle is going to work for me.
Machinists will tell you that drilling through an offset hole or even enlarging an existing hole with a drill can be dangerous. The drill bit tip can grab the edges of the hole when spinning and lock causing the drill to quickly and violently twist the users hand/wrist, and often results in broken bones.
Let us know how it goes when you do it. I'm planning to document the crap out of mine to post when I do to help anybody else that finds themselves in this predicament.
If you didn't get new grade 8 bolts with the axles it would be wise to get some new ones vs reusing the old bolts.
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:34 PM   #16
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I had to enlarge the squares in the holding plate as well. Cut out on the back side so the front distance remains the same for each mounting bracket. Measure to make sure both sides of the axle are same length away from the jack. It not brain surgery, but it is hard work. Make sure the trailer is safely supported.
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:49 AM   #17
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When drilling where a bind can hurt you, don't tighten the bit in the chuck real tight.

It sucks when a bind causes the bit to stop, but this is recoverable, and is a lot less likely to hurt the mechanic.


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Old 05-06-2015, 09:52 AM   #18
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The notches in my frame had closed due to frame sag, (the tubes on my old and new axles was the same diameter), so I straightened the frame which opened the notches.




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Old 05-07-2015, 01:02 PM   #19
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I sometimes I tend to overthink things and think that things are going to be much harder than they turn out to be, but I'd rather be prepared for the worst and have it turn out easier than expected. Don't want to get part way through and then figure out I need to go but tool x or part y. Got angle grinder, die grinder, hole saw, impact wrench. Plan to round the corners of the notch so there's not a stress point for cracks. Think I may have to move the shock attachment point, doesn't seem like the geometry with the higher down angle will let them get past the end of the axle arm down to the original mounting point, hard to tell without the axle being on the trailer.
Need to get it done though.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:40 AM   #20
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Got the PB BLASTER and been spraying the heck out of them. (hope the storage lot does not mind--should help with the ant problem) I'm hoping to pull it to a work area and get those axles dropped tomorrow. Wish me luck!!
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