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Old 05-05-2015, 10:58 PM   #15
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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Been dreading this myself. I got new axles and they've been sitting for a while. From measuring the old bolt holes, axle tube size and distances between them on the trailer and comparing with the new axle mounting plates it's become obvious that the bolt hole spacing on mine are different, and the new tube diameter is larger. So I'm expecting to need to enlarge the notch that the old axle tubes fit up into so the new axle tubes will fit into them. Planning on using the old front bolt holes to attach to the holes on the new axle figuring that this will keep the axle alignment good, but this seems like it will mean the aft bolt holes will not line up (they'll overlap some), so I'd have to figure out how to enlarge one of the rear holes or drill a completely new hole somewhere else on the rear plate. From measurements it doesn't seem like the simple drop the old axle and throw in the new axle is going to work for me.
Machinists will tell you that drilling through an offset hole or even enlarging an existing hole with a drill can be dangerous. The drill bit tip can grab the edges of the hole when spinning and lock causing the drill to quickly and violently twist the users hand/wrist, and often results in broken bones.
Let us know how it goes when you do it. I'm planning to document the crap out of mine to post when I do to help anybody else that finds themselves in this predicament.
If you didn't get new grade 8 bolts with the axles it would be wise to get some new ones vs reusing the old bolts.
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Old 05-05-2015, 11:34 PM   #16
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I had to enlarge the squares in the holding plate as well. Cut out on the back side so the front distance remains the same for each mounting bracket. Measure to make sure both sides of the axle are same length away from the jack. It not brain surgery, but it is hard work. Make sure the trailer is safely supported.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:49 AM   #17
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When drilling where a bind can hurt you, don't tighten the bit in the chuck real tight.

It sucks when a bind causes the bit to stop, but this is recoverable, and is a lot less likely to hurt the mechanic.


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Old 05-06-2015, 10:52 AM   #18
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The notches in my frame had closed due to frame sag, (the tubes on my old and new axles was the same diameter), so I straightened the frame which opened the notches.




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Old 05-07-2015, 02:02 PM   #19
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1974 31' Sovereign
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I sometimes I tend to overthink things and think that things are going to be much harder than they turn out to be, but I'd rather be prepared for the worst and have it turn out easier than expected. Don't want to get part way through and then figure out I need to go but tool x or part y. Got angle grinder, die grinder, hole saw, impact wrench. Plan to round the corners of the notch so there's not a stress point for cracks. Think I may have to move the shock attachment point, doesn't seem like the geometry with the higher down angle will let them get past the end of the axle arm down to the original mounting point, hard to tell without the axle being on the trailer.
Need to get it done though.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:40 AM   #20
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1974 25' Tradewind
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Got the PB BLASTER and been spraying the heck out of them. (hope the storage lot does not mind--should help with the ant problem) I'm hoping to pull it to a work area and get those axles dropped tomorrow. Wish me luck!!
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Old 05-23-2015, 06:00 PM   #21
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1974 25' Tradewind
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OK. So I got my axles loaded on the truck and he ax headed off to do my installation. Got the camper up on the ramps and discovered very quickly when the bolts would not budge using all of my might that this was a job above my head. Rolled it back down, loaded up the axles and carried it to the local tire shop. They took it on and did the job for me for about $250. Anyone needing axle replacement in North Alabama, please visit Simmons Tire in Sheffield. They are AWESOME!!!!
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