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Old 04-20-2013, 04:31 PM   #1
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Axle identification

Ok, so I just jacked up my airstream to change the backing plates and made a rather disturbing discovery.. I don't know what's goin on , and why the rear axel looks different then the front axel, or why one is higher then the other. I have included pictures and was wondering If anyone can identify the axels. The reason I'm asking is because I went and got another frame to use the metal off of it and the axels were included. It's the same year and model frame, but the axels look different. These have bolts that screw in the hubs, and the ones on the airstream has posts...
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:33 PM   #2
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And these are the ones on the donor frame.
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:34 PM   #3
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The hubs/drums on your donor frame looks like they are original. The hubs/drum on your trailer have probably been replaced. My guess on why one is higher than the other, it may be because the one is frozen/stuck and doesnt have any movent to lower when the weight is removed from the axle.
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:36 PM   #4
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Based on the pictures it looks like your jack stands are under the axle. When supporting your trailer with jack stands you should place the stands under the axle plates not the axles.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:23 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by shadeemry View Post
And these are the ones on the donor frame.
It appears from your photo's that all 4 axles rubber rods are history.

The following will help you check out the axles, correctly.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:09 PM   #6
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Be safe

The frame that is supported by the concrete masonry units (CMU) is EXTREMELY dangerous. The CMU are set in their weak plane and are in danger of collapse under the weight of the trailer. (the holes in the CMU should be vertical like they would be in a wall to get the most structural support) As they are now the slightest vibration might cause the CMU to crack and let the trailer fall. Please do not let anyone under that trailer until it is supported.

I recommend that you do not use CMU for this purpose.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:31 PM   #7
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The good news is...

Well, first the good news:
The axles look like they are all originals, all four of them. That is good because you won't feel so bad having to buy new axles from improperly jacking and supporting them, and replacement axles generally come with new drums and backing plates.
Now, the bad news is, even if the axles weren't bad to begin with, they almost certainly are ruined by jacking and supporting the trailers on the hollow axle tubes.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:55 PM   #8
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If you are EVER going to support something heavy with a cement block, set them the way they would be in a building. Then put a piece of 2X8 on top of the cement block, to spread the weight out over the top of the block. If you do not use the wood on the top to spread out the load, you risk splitting or crushing the block.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:11 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
The frame that is supported by the concrete masonry units (CMU) is EXTREMELY dangerous. The CMU are set in their weak plane and are in danger of collapse under the weight of the trailer. (the holes in the CMU should be vertical like they would be in a wall to get the most structural support) As they are now the slightest vibration might cause the CMU to crack and let the trailer fall. Please do not let anyone under that trailer until it is supported.

I recommend that you do not use CMU for this purpose.
thats the donnor frame
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:13 AM   #10
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its a good thing im getting new axels then.. what are some good ones to get?
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:24 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
It appears from your photo's that all 4 axles rubber rods are history.

The following will help you check out the axles, correctly.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy
Thankx a bunch andy
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