71 overlander axel replacement

[harcon]

I have order new axeles for my 71 overlander. They arrived a few weeks ago and I am just getting around to the install. I order them from airstream supply in Utah. I supplied them with all info requested. They suggested a Durango torque brand and also recommended using the load rating. After inspect the axeles they are rated at 3800 lbs they are the #11. When getting ready to install after reading on dura torque website I understand that side mount axeles require an additional bracket which my overlander has. Problem is notch in bracket appears to be for a smaller axel housing any help you guys could throw my way would be a great help. FYI axeles are high mount and arms are at 32 degrees. One other point I do would like some clarification on is the rating upgrade. Reading on the forum for sometime it seems common place to upgrade rating question is this, will not the higher rated axels give the trailor a beating going down the highway. Case in point I am in the construction business and drive a heavy duty truck which when unloaded beats you up a bit compared to when axels are loaded close to their rated capacity. Comments? Thanks guys newbie here.

[rmkrum]

Folks on here simply adjust the notch carefully to fit the new axles. Just trim the same side of each notch...😀and be real accurate.


If you plan to go to better tires (almost a religious discussion on the forums) like Michelin on bigger wheels you can set up for a reasonably soft ride. Search for one of the dozens of threads on the subject.... 😇


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[Belegedhel]

Welcome to the Forums!

Yes, it is common to upgrade the rating of the axles, and yes, if all other things were left unchanged, this would result in a stiffer ride. Usually the axles are upgraded to compensate for the other, heavier rennovations that are put in place at the same time, things like beefier cabinetry, addition of grey water tanks, addition of multiple batteries, etc..

As to modifying the axle slots, a best practice, as mentioned above, is to only modify one side of the slot, and another would be to modify the side of the slot that is toward the front of the trailer, so that if you end up oversing the slot, the axles can still be pushed fully back to the "factory" edge in the rear, and it will stay put.

good luck!

[harcon]

Thanks guys

[Jacob D]

I bought 3,500lb Dexter axles from Inland RV last December for my '67 Overlander. They came fully assembled plus shock brackets that had to be welded on, Shocks, 12 inch brakes, and new bolts and lug nuts. We trimmed the rear edge of each slot in the side plates and used the front of the slots to ensure good alignment. The ride with the heavier axles is very smooth, but I'm comparing to that of the old stiffened axles. Tire pressure will also determine a smooth or rough ride. I have used GYM's for over 15 years at 43psi, the pressure indicated for the load in the chart published in GoodYear's web site.

[909kenu]

"Case in point I am in the construction business and drive a heavy duty truck which when unloaded beats you up a bit compared to when axels are loaded close to their rated capacity. Comments? Thanks guys newbie here."[/QUOTE]

Recently did the same. Notched one side, I believe the front side with a 4.5" cut off wheel and finished up with flap disk. Very easy to do. Don't forget to mount your shocks before bolting axle(s) in. Park trailer on 2x8's to lift one axle at a time, safer then jacking.

I'm also a newbie. I learn many things here, the forum is full of great people.
I have the (2) Dexter 3500#, 12" brakes, 32* for our 26' Argosy.

I know the trailers have a capacity and the frames are weak but my plan is to load it for camping.....it will ride smooth. If empty, I will adjust tire pressure.