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Old 09-21-2004, 06:53 PM   #1
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$200 +/- for bearing and brake service?

Is that $ amount about standard for those services? Oasis in Tucson is going to do it on Monday next.

About fishing for the washrag....I used a coat hanger and my arm and couldn't get anything....I suspect it has gone into the plumbing at some lucky RV park in the last week.

Schematic in the Airstream book shows the black tank farther forward than the grey/wash water tank. If this is true, why is the valve handle forward of the black (main) tank one????

How hard is it to take the stool loose? I have replaced wax collars in my house so have had some experience. Does an Airstream toilet have a wax collar?
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:59 PM   #2
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About right

My dealer quoted about $190 for labor and new seals.
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:00 AM   #3
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I paid $334 for parts and some labor: new bearings and seals, installation of new races and turning of the drums (labor), new brake shoes and new magnets. I installed everything myself on a single axle.

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Old 09-22-2004, 06:05 AM   #4
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About the toilet; it will likely have a rubber seal, not wax.
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:04 AM   #5
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Thank you, everyone; I feel better. Everything seems costly to me, but then I remember when bread was 10 cents a loaf and gas was 18 cents a gallon.

At 15,000 miles my Expedition needs a fuel filter; they didn't have this in Gunnison so now that I am home am going to the local dealer and it is costing me +/- $80........ I thought they were $15.

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Old 09-22-2004, 03:05 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Kistler
Thank you, everyone; I feel better. Everything seems costly to me, but then I remember when bread was 10 cents a loaf and gas was 18 cents a gallon.

At 15,000 miles my Expedition needs a fuel filter; they didn't have this in Gunnison so now that I am home am going to the local dealer and it is costing me +/- $80........ I thought they were $15.

Kistler
I just paid $79.00 for a fuel filter on my '03 F-250 PSDiesel. I went to Pep-Boys for the air filter @ $19.-, the dealer quoted $49.-!!! BTW: Water now costs more than 18 cents a gallon !
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Old 09-22-2004, 03:19 PM   #7
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The hardest part on removing the toliet is gaining access. I can lie down in the passageway and reach under mine which is held in place by two fasteners I think it takes a 9/16" wrench. Remove them and the supply line and it should come up. I really don't like sticking my head in the sewer and I would hook up the vaccumm to the outlet and pull air from inside the trailer to the outside while performing the operation.
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Old 09-22-2004, 03:21 PM   #8
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It wouldn't be a bad idea to get a set of bearings and a seal to put in the toolbox. Not a bad job to do on the side of the road, but really difficult if you don't have the parts.
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:07 PM   #9
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Tarheel, you would be a very good "caravanning companion".....now what state is the Tarheel State?

I am going to do major flushing before I tackle the toilet. I have small hands relatively and can reach up the outside dump pipe BUT my arms are not long enough to get into the tank. AND I get an H of a pain from my arthritis after that.

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Old 09-22-2004, 06:38 PM   #10
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Is that $ amount about standard for those services? Oasis in Tucson is going to do it on Monday next.
It will take about 2 hours to R&R, clean and repack, adjust brakes, and install new seals. 2 hours @75/hr is $150, figure seals are about $6.00/ea. to make $24.00, for a total of $174.00 for a two-axle trailer, so the dealer is not far off on this.
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:47 PM   #11
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Thank you, Terry....Tarheel, were you born in North Carolina? How do you qualify?



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Old 09-22-2004, 08:45 PM   #12
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Great grandparents on all sides were born in North Carolina. Paternal Grandparents lived on Bell's island. Grandparents on father's side and my mother's maternial side were born in the same county I now live in Currituck. Mother and father were born in Norfolk VA. I moved to NC about 16 years ago.
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Old 09-22-2004, 08:51 PM   #13
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I was in no hurry when I did my trailer last fall. I pulled a wheel, removed the star adjuster, it was frozen, repacked the outer bearings, inspected the inner, replaced the wheel and adjusted the brakes. I managed all 6 wheels in two days and I was not on the clock. I also carry a spare backing plate with brakes installed. I can change out a set of bearings and brakes on the road. Caught the brake and backing plate at a rally on sale for $65. Brake springs do break. They cost $0.35 each but they can take a wheel out of service, do check them from time to time. I have replaced 3.
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:51 AM   #14
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Tarheel

I think it is important for all persons that change wheel bearings to also change the races.

The races form the other side of the “housing” that the bearings ride on; one race is the inside of the bearing housing that slips on to the axle and is integral to the bearing and not changeable and comes with the new bearings. The other race is brass and is fitted in the wheel drum and it comes into direct contact with the turning bearings. Therefore, if you have bearings that are bad and you replace them, replace the races, because the old races were ruined when they come in contact with the bad bearings.

If you don’t replace the races at the time the bearings are replaced, the new bearings will become corrupted through contact with the bad races and premature failure is expected.

Incidentally, I had my races (two wheels) replaced for $61 ($11 for parts). It is also good policy to turn the drums to get proper brake and magnet contact surfaces.

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