1973 Argosy Axles... looking for opinions

[DKB_SATX]

That "1970" on the axle data plate of our original-spec axles isn't likely to be the year of manufacture. I think the general consensus is that it's the year that particular design was approved in Canada, given the "CAN. 1970" text and the fact that it's in the same font as the rest of the boilerplate stuff, rather than the font of the stamped data that would differ from axle to axle (the weight rating and the serial #).

[Hotpuppy]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

That "1970" on the axle data plate of our original-spec axles isn't likely to be the year of manufacture. I think the general consensus is that it's the year that particular design was approved in Canada, given the "CAN. 1970" text and the fact that it's in the same font as the rest of the boilerplate stuff, rather than the font of the stamped data that would differ from axle to axle (the weight rating and the serial #).

That makes more sense. Hmmm, I wonder if it's a good idea to replace a 2600 pound axle with a 3500 pound axle. Can't really get a 2600 lb axle anyway....so I suppose it doesn't matter.

Torsion is a strange animal and the amount of rubber plays a role in how responsive it is to the design load. This is the same thing you see with a 1 ton pickup. With nothing in the bed it acts like there is no suspension. Put 1/2 ton back there and it rides like a dream.

It seems like AS trailers are sensitive to a harsh ride, so upsizing axles too much could have undesirable consequences by removing some of the spring from the axle.

So for the sake of amusement, let's do the de-rating exercise.

I'll assume that what applies to Flexiride axles would apply to other brands of torsion axles. This could be a faulty assumption, but that is a risk I'll take.
http://www.ucfamerica.com/FlexirideT...0Questions.pdf

De-rating is 20% for tandem axle and 10% for rough service.

3500 lb axle is thus derated by 700# when placed in tandem service for a residual rating of 2800lb.

When used in Houston, one could argue that the axle should be derated an additional 10% to compensate for our horrible roads in the inner portions of the city.

Joking about road conditions aside, the up-sizing may not be as big of a deal as I thought. Trailer GVW is rated for 5200# and putting 5600# of axle capacity is an acceptable overage for me.

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by Hotpuppy

That makes more sense. Hmmm, I wonder if it's a good idea to replace a 2600 pound axle with a 3500 pound axle. Can't really get a 2600 lb axle anyway....so I suppose it doesn't matter.

I have shipped many 3500 axles that were derated as low as 2500 lbs or uprated as high as 3700 lbs. This is done in 100 lb increments, depending on the trailers requirements, so 2600 lbs isn't an issue.
Colin

[rogerdodger]

I talked to a Rick Capsa at Dexter axle, and he said not to over axle my Argosy. I was thinking 3500# axles, and after weighing my Argosy at 4040#, he said to go with 3000# or 3200# max. I hope you weigh your trailer, and if you go with 3500# axles, load it up or you could have very stiff suspension, may not be happy with it. Good luck.

[Hotpuppy]

Originally Posted by rogerdodger

I talked to a Rick Capsa at Dexter axle, and he said not to over axle my Argosy. I was thinking 3500# axles, and after weighing my Argosy at 4040#, he said to go with 3000# or 3200# max. I hope you weigh your trailer, and if you go with 3500# axles, load it up or you could have very stiff suspension, may not be happy with it. Good luck.

I'm comfortable with my calculations and anticipate that the new axles will be an improvement over the previous axles.

[elmer]

Originally Posted by Hotpuppy

I'm comfortable with my calculations and anticipate that the new axles will be an improvement over the previous axles.

Thanks for this thread and for bringing up the whole de-rating aspect that I'd never heard of before. That explains why Andy at Inland RV sold me 2 x 3500lb axles for my 1976 22' Argosy with the same 2600lb GAWR as your 1973 24' Argosy

[Hotpuppy]

Just a quick update... I picked up the Al-Ko Axles today. They are nearly identical to the old axles... minus the rust and bends. I probably won't have time to install them for a couple of weeks. What started out as a simple job morphed into a rebuild.

[Hotpuppy]

I forgot to add that the axles were $386/ea for a net of about $842 after tax. The dealer ended up bringing the axles in with 3 pallets of stock they had ordered so I didn't have to pay shipping. I'll update the thread when I get to installing them.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Hotpuppy

I forgot to add that the axles were $386/ea for a net of about $842 after tax. The dealer ended up bringing the axles in with 3 pallets of stock they had ordered so I didn't have to pay shipping. I'll update the thread when I get to installing them.

The bend in the axle tube, is how it's aligned.

If yours are straight, they are not aligned.

Andy

[Hotpuppy]

The old axles were bent in two planes... so they were certainly not aligned.

The new axles are not bent. We'll see how it goes. I honestly don't anticipate any issues. The dealer that provided the axles has a good depth of experience and manufactures several hundred trailers per year. This is my first airstream/argosy trailer, but it's the second trailer I've re-axled with torsion axles.

The new axles are installed. I did have to drill 8 holes and modify the mount slightly. The new axle brackets aren't as high as the old ones so I added material to the frame to compensate. The majority of the load is carried at the bolts and where the frame rests on the tube.

All in all I'm quite happy with the axles and it's a substantial savings compared to other options that are on the internet. The true test will be when I pull the trailer after I'm done with what the rework.

[roolshedbob]

I received my new axles, hubs. brakes. shocks and mounts from inland rv - in good order. The new axles will either line up with the old axle slot in the frame or the old bolts holes - but not both. Which is correct?

If it is the slot I will have to widen it slightly to accommodate the larger new axles and drill new bolt hoes. Should the depth of the slot remain the same or should it also be increased?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by roolshedbob

I received my new axles, hubs. brakes. shocks and mounts from inland rv - in good order. The new axles will either line up with the old axle slot in the frame or the old bolts holes - but not both. Which is correct?

If it is the slot I will have to widen it slightly to accommodate the larger new axles and drill new bolt hoes. Should the depth of the slot remain the same or should it also be increased?

The "rear" bolt hole is the key to mounting.

Then open or enlarge the other holes as necessary.

Open the slot to whatever needs to be so that the larger axle tube will slide in OK.

That slot has nothing to do with the alignment.

Andy