#10 or #11 axles?

[erock53]

I have been getting different information and wanted an opinion. I am getting new axles for my 78' soviergn international. Originally I was going to get a #10 3500lb axle with the 12" brakes. I am now considering getting disc brakes. Should I go with the standard #10 with disc brakes, or do I need to get the bigger spindle and disc brake setup? or should I get a #11 disc brake setup derated to 3500lbs. I have been told that I can have both setups made by Dexter when I called their customer service. Here is how I see it. The #10's will require me to drill out new holes, the #11's will require me to drill out 1 hole and enlarge the opening for the larger 3"tube. It looks like disc will cost an additional

My current sagging axels have the vac assisted disc brake setup and aluminum rims. My measurements are 81" hub-to-hub and 61-1/4" outside bracket spacing.

[PizzaChop]

I really agonized over the issue myself and ended up going with the #11 axle, 3600 lb rating, 12" drums (std) with Neverlube hubs.

Enlarging the axle opening wasn't that big of a deal and the axle definitely appears beefier. You'll have to enlarge the front hole to accomodate the #11 bracket. (the rear hole lines up perfectly and gives you the alignment you want) I went with the standard 22.5 deg angle, replaced the shocks, and am very happy with the ride. (I can literally see the difference in the rear view mirror as it travels.)

There is a top shock mount option you can specify from the factory as well(and you may already know about it).

Your measurements sound about right. Here are mine. (I was confused and ordered side mounting hangers, obviously not necessary.)

Pizzachop Axle Pictures

[Safari Tim]

Just to confuse you more. I went the other way. I got a #10 axle, BUT I specified the type "A" spindle which gave me the larger brakes and 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern needed for the original wheels.

The reason I ended up with the #10 is to get the lower 3000# rating I wanted. The #11 axles are the 4000# - 6000# but can be derated below 4000#. But not low enough for my use.

Dexter engineering is great and easy to get a hold of to answer your questions. Check out there website documentation to get up to speed on the lingo and ask away.

Good luck with your choice.

[erock53]

I have been following the axles section of this web site for a few months now and have scowered over all the posts from Mr. PizzaChop, 87MH and the famous "Ambassador Tim." I don’t think I would have even thought about taking on a project of this size if I did not have the resource that this web site offers. Right now I'm trying to find a good place to purchase the axles in my area. I called the factory and was given quoted prices, but the person at Dexter told me I would get a better price if I go through a distributor. That is where I'm at in my project. If anyone in Southern Ohio has done this, recommendations would be appreciated.

Since I already have the hydraulic lines run in my Airstream, do you think that I can use them? or do I need to run all new lines? All I did at this point was to disconnect the front Vac booster. All the lines look good but I have not been able to verify. I would probably mount the E/H actuator in the front, since the main line runs to that point.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by erock53

I have been following the axles section of this web site for a few months now and have scowered over all the posts from Mr. PizzaChop, 87MH and the famous "Ambassador Tim." I don’t think I would have even thought about taking on a project of this size if I did not have the resource that this web site offers. Right now I'm trying to find a good place to purchase the axles in my area. I called the factory and was given quoted prices, but the person at Dexter told me I would get a better price if I go through a distributor. That is where I'm at in my project. If anyone in Southern Ohio has done this, recommendations would be appreciated.

Since I already have the hydraulic lines run in my Airstream, do you think that I can use them? or do I need to run all new lines? All I did at this point was to disconnect the front Vac booster. All the lines look good but I have not been able to verify. I would probably mount the E/H actuator in the front, since the main line runs to that point.

You could pick up new axles at Henschen, in Jackson Center, not far from you, that are guaranteed to fit, with no changes to be made, or guesses to be made either.

You can use the old hydraulic lines, but you must flush them out first.

Andy

[flashbackk]

Andy, is there anyway I could have them installed on location?

I am about 2 hrs away myself, and am looking to do something about the axles. Can I tow my rig down there and drive back with the new ones installed?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by flashbackk

Andy, is there anyway I could have them installed on location?

I am about 2 hrs away myself, and am looking to do something about the axles. Can I tow my rig down there and drive back with the new ones installed?

You can make a coordinated appointment with Airstream service.

They will pick up the axles when they are completed at Henschen and install them for you.

Andy