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Old 08-19-2019, 08:46 PM   #1
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Zone 2 AC Works Great, But Not Zone 1

Drove our new 2019 FC 27 FB home from dealer to get acquainted and pack for upcoming trip to Colorado.
Plugged into 30 amp RV receptacle at garage and used 30 amp male to 50 amp female RV plug and twist at trailer.
Goal was to run one AC at a time to test function and learn Dometic Comfort Control Center Thermostat.
Selected Zone 1, Cool, and after a short pause AC came on and nice and cold.
After 20 minutes of cooling, the AC turned itself Off and the E7 code appeared in window (E7 translates to no 120 VAC)

So I turned thermostat off, while I checked my 30 amp breaker at the garage, and all breakers in the Airstream.
Selected Zone 2, Cool, and after a short pause the AC came on and ran all afternoon.

This evening, I tried Zone 1 again, and still get the E7 code.
Ideas?
Is there a sub-panel for the two AC with separate breakers I have not found?
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Old 08-19-2019, 09:25 PM   #2
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Zone 2 AC Works Great, But Not Zone 1

The 50A is a split panel so you will have one branch for each 50A leg L1 and a second branch for 50A leg L2. One AC will have a 20A beaker on L1 branch and the other will have a separate breaker on L2 branch. Both 20A breakers are located in your main panel and they will be labeled on the panel door or casing.

What you are describing is very odd if both branches are hot assuming you have a 30->50 adapter that bridges L1 and L2 legs to the single hot 30A leg.

The only things I could think of (Im pretty handy with 120v but I am not an electrician) would be...

1. Faulty breaker that is tripping on your panel - (but youd know because youd have to reset it)

2. Faulty voltage sensor on the main board in the upper unit

3. ***highly unlikely but better safe than sorry**** a poor mechanical wire connection for the AC at the junction box located in the ceiling below the Air con or at the upper unit itself... causing voltage drop with electrical arcing... and a low voltage condition that the CCC picks up and shuts down the unit.

Im not trying to scare you but one gentlemen on the forum had a brand new trailer that burned to the ground and the fire started up near the AC unit so it would of appeared. Root cause was never revealed and airstream were directly involved.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f543/fire-190179.html

Likely not the case but check your voltages when running the AC / check all 120v connections to ensure nothing is faulty / creating resistance / low voltage situation. Youd think a breaker would trip but better safe than sorry.
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Old 08-20-2019, 02:13 AM   #3
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Have you done the Dometic hard reboot for the stat, per your Dometic manual in the AS briefcase that came with your trailer?

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dome...com&gws_rd=ssl

To cover all the bases maybe:

-- unplug from shore power
-- go to Store on your Use/Store switch
.....[or equivalent for your model]
-- go back to Use
-- plug into shore power
-- do the Dometic hard reboot
-- make sure the date and time are correct +/- on your stat
.....[not sure where this came from but someone else said this]

Any better? Call the Dometic 800 help number maybe? Faulty stat?

Good luck,

Peter
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:43 AM   #4
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Thanks Wulfraat and Otra15

Having done everything you both suggested last night before I closed up, I went to bed with Wulfraat's Possibility #3 on my mind.
This morning when I read your posts for the first time. Possibility #3 is seeming more likely.
Back to the dealer.
Will let you know.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumaholic View Post
Having done everything you both suggested last night before I closed up, I went to bed with Wulfraat's Possibility #3 on my mind.
This morning when I read your posts for the first time. Possibility #3 is seeming more likely.
Back to the dealer.
Will let you know.
Good choice.
I had the same issue with our Zone 1 AC and it was a faulty Control Board on the AC unit.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:52 AM   #6
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I've had several Zone issues but mostly with Zone 2.
E7 code translates to loss of power to the control board. It is also possible that the unit shut down due to low voltage. A 30 amp connection doesn't always mean you have 120 volts. I've been in several campground both public and private where the voltage dropped below 108 volts. Low voltage can damage as can high voltage. I would investigate the voltage drop when the A/C is running.



Often the system will restore itself after a period of time with batteries off and no shore power. It can sometimes take anywhere to a few hours to a couple of days. You can also reset the Dometic CC2 thermostat by resetting it. Instructions are in the manual and it's a simple procedure.


I would highly recommend getting a EMS Surge protector with a display monitoring conditions. Progressive and Southwire are the most popular here. I went with the Southwire because of a wireless remote display. In the last month I had an open ground and at another campground low voltage and amperage limitations. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-20-2019, 11:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumaholic View Post
Having done everything you both suggested last night before I closed up, I went to bed with Wulfraat's Possibility #3 on my mind.
This morning when I read your posts for the first time. Possibility #3 is seeming more likely.
Back to the dealer.
Will let you know.
Thanks for the update. Good luck at the dealer.

Peter
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Old 08-20-2019, 02:56 PM   #8
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The Dometic Diagnosis

Since the Airstream Dealer can't get me in until September 19 (at which time I will be attending the Chilly Chama Airstream Rally in Chama, NM), I called Dometic Customer Service.
Mike the tech believes it is most likely a loose connector between the Zone 1 AC control board and the capacitor.
So, Wulfraat wins the prize for most likely root cause.
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:58 PM   #9
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Zone 2 AC Works Great, But Not Zone 1

Well look Im glad there was no fire!

Those connections are easy to check out... pop on up there ... 4 screws to remove the white plastic shroud and 2 more screws for the interior panel cover and you have access to the two capacitors, main board and various connections.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:42 PM   #10
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Be careful . . . those screws are very soft steel, so a dull driver tip could strip the heads out in no time.



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Old 08-20-2019, 05:53 PM   #11
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We won't ask how you know.
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Old 08-21-2019, 02:31 AM   #12
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Just barely missed having to do a major "screw extraction" operation on a hot humid day!

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Old 08-21-2019, 08:31 AM   #13
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What have you devised for working on AC to keep your weight on the ribs?
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:03 AM   #14
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There are various A/C roof scaffold solutions:

https://www.google.com/search?q=scaf...com&gws_rd=ssl

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f478...rk-171696.html

I was actually referring to the screws for the interior A/C shroud which we had to remove to check for leaks in the drain tubing [which was missing a tubing/hose clamp BTW]. [guess I miss-read wulfraat's comment] Not sure how involved you need to get just to remove a few exterior screws and the lightweight shroud. An extension ladder resting on some thick moving pads over the ribs would work IMO, using care to prevent the bottom of the ladder from sliding outward.



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