thanks for the info, with the new requirements for 13seer many mfgs are starting to use inverter driven systems. An inverter is used to drive the compressor and fans. This allows the computer in an ac to control not only fan speed but also compressor speed. In some aplications the compressor never shuts off. By controlling air flow across the evaporator and evap temp by slowing the compressor down total air quality can be controlled. there is a water cooled marine system out there but not suitable for RV use.
I have read several threads lately concerning poor cooling, humidity and short cycles. The tecnology in your system handles all of those. Too bad the current roof system do ot employ these techniques. RV ac applications are exempt from the 13seer requirement for now so I doubt we will see anything soon.
steve
Didn't Uwe put a window unit under the bed in a vintage AS and duct the condenser air out the bottom, along the inner edge of the bannana skin? He documented it in one of his long threads on his restoration. It seems to work very well.
Apparently, the A/C topic pops up every summer on the forum! I didn't see this thread when I searched for a/c threads. There is lots of good information in this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forum...roof-5298.html
Thanks Led and Yukionna for the leads.
Hope to test the 8k btu unit this weekend. I am hoping that it is not too much for night use. I am going to use a controller that has a little smarts hoping it wil smooth things out. Getting the air cool in a small trailer is easy, getting it dry at night is harder. Looks like it will use only about 800 watts when cooling and about 85 watts when just circulating. The controller will also shut everything down in between cycles if needed.
have you notified the Patent Office about this yet?
Joe, thanks for the vote of confidence, but I doubt that the regular consumer is ready. Actually, I already have one Patent in process for Sport Aircraft.
When I finish this project I will share with those who want to build something. Building custom stuff has it's own rewards. The hard part is going to be how to polish and restore this Bambi.
Just staying in our Pacer to fix up an old house in Carrebelle I got a 5000btu frigidare window rattler.Fit perfect in the kitchen window.Not pretty but works well.probably look for something better for OTR
Just staying in our Pacer to fix up an old house in Carrebelle I got a 5000btu frigidare window rattler.Fit perfect in the kitchen window.Not pretty but works well.probably look for something better for OTR
I have a 22' new Toy Hauler that I stay in on weekends. It is under cover so same load as in the shade. Even though I just put a new Carrier low profile on it, I still use the 5K btu window unit. Why? It is very quiet and it keeps the humidity under control. Not practical for on the road but great for now. It only takes 500 watts to run it
Imagine having the same or better performance but not seeing or hearing the sucker.
If I can get my AC tech awake this morning I will make some progress.
Steve
If we don't reach for the clouds we will never learn to fly.
........
I see no way to install a functional a/c without some sacrifices on space, weight and styling...I ended up cutting up the trailer to make mine work, but the results are surprisingly good.
My installation is not finished yet, but once completed, I anticipate an even better air distribution.
The system is about as noisy as a fantastic fan on medium speed. It is located under our bed, and the foam and insulation muffles it considerably. There is little to no vibration. I took a nap on top of it, and it did not bother me one bit.
An installation like that requires some serious modfications, but it is not impossible, and can be done by a hobbyist like myself. There is more information on it, including some recent post at my thread "a 63 for me...."
Uwe,
Thank you for your posts. Your pictures are great also.
R
I have a 1965 Globetrotter and tried the portable unit last season with only OK results. The biggest drawback was the noise and space used. I finally broke down this year and put in the Carrier Air V and sprayed the cover silver. Looks good and does a good job.
One idea I had considered, but put it on hold due to other more important work issues, was to convert a 10K BTU (or less) 110 house window unit to an outside portable unit and duct the intake and return through insulated hoses, the type typically used in high volume, low pressue home systems either the 2" or 4" insulated ones.
The idea was to take the front cover off and re-create it with two ducted front ends. The both would be tappered. I'm sure there would have to be some other cover on the front to make it weather tight, but the rest of the housing could be left as is. The other step would be to add feet to elevate it off the ground.
The hoses would be fitted to the AC and trailer with the same type of connectors used for an RV septic system.
The modifications to the trailer would be to create an air intake and return vent in the floor with the intake from the AC going into a pellam and then ducted around inside the trailer.
I had thought that the AC could then be stored in the tow vehicle when not in service. We already carry so much stuff, that I suspected this would not be any worse than a portable unit.
The idea would be cool to try, but I'm just to busy at work to tinker with it.
What do others think?
Doug
__________________
65' Globetrotter 'The Otter'
56' Caravanner 'The Broomstick'
One idea I had considered, but put it on hold due to other more important work issues, was to convert a 10K BTU (or less) 110 house window unit to an outside portable unit and duct the intake and return through insulated hoses, the type typically used in high volume, low pressue home systems either the 2" or 4" insulated ones.
The idea was to take the front cover off and re-create it with two ducted front ends. The both would be tappered. I'm sure there would have to be some other cover on the front to make it weather tight, but the rest of the housing could be left as is. The other step would be to add feet to elevate it off the ground.
The hoses would be fitted to the AC and trailer with the same type of connectors used for an RV septic system.
The idea would be cool to try, but I'm just to busy at work to tinker with it.
What do others think?
Doug
Good idea, but still cumbersom. Just got done with a full day of testing an 8k btu test. Everything works very well and only used 850 watts. I also ran it with my Honda 2kw inverter generator. Works very well and even works on energy miser. Handled the compressor starts no problem.
Final results:
Small Quiet inside ducted or unducted air handler
850 watts on full high
Runs on Honda 2000I
About $250 in parts
Labor (this is fun, we don't count labor)
Climate at night is cool and dry 72deg/47% humidity
Easily pulls down to 72 deg in full sun (Bambi II/Fla/July/95deg)
Small 8x16x16 aluminum box outside condensor assy on tongue behind tanks
No major impact on the outside appeal of a vintage trailer
I am very happy with the results of this test unit. It's time to pack it up and start on my rebuild of the trailer. It will take awhile to show pictures of the final trimmed out unit because I have a whole trailer inside and out to complete.
I installed my new compact ac in my Toy hauler as a test. I don't want to experiment with my Bambi.
It is so quiet that you almost can't hear it. The air output shoots down the middle and up. You can feel the air all the way in the back at the ceiling. I plan to paint the grills black.
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