Window AC Unit Inside Airstream

[Tampatomgirl]

Probably not going to work, but I'm hoping someone has some encouragement for me. I plan to remove the propane furnace from my 34' Excella. I would like to be able to use the duct work for an interior A/C unit. I have the 3 door closet and can vent it on the outside, install a drain & retrofit to hook up to the ducting. I know i need a high CFM unit, but can anybody advise if this can work? I hate the look and the noise from the rooftop units!!!

[AWCHIEF]

A number of threads on this project here,

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427/

[Tampatomgirl]

I have read several and find none that reference my uestion. Can you point to one that does?

[aquinob]

I dont care for the rooftop units either, at least as far as the noise and vibration, but I dont know I would go with a window unit either. The biggest issue with a large window unit is the interior space it will take up, assuming it doesnt hang outside the body of the camper. So now you have that noisy compressor inside the trailer and you need some way to isolate the heat and noise it produces from the cool hopefully quiet inside.

You should look at a split unit, with a smaller compressor unit mounted outside, maybe where the propane tanks are and an unobtrusive evaporator inside. There was one guy that did an argosy with this setup, and it looked killer and he said it worked very well. But a split system is going to be much more expensive than a window unit.

Now if your intent is to hang it out a window, I wont even try to comment.

[markc12v30]

Very interesting post. I just went through this on my 2014 Interstate which is an easier problem to solve since the space to be air-conditioned is very small. Our complaint was that in hot weather we need the unit ON which is in the ceiling right above where we sleep---and it is very noisy, coming ON and OFF all night. To solve the problem I carry a small window unit in the space behind the lounge. Upon arrival at our site I take it out, place it on the ground behind RV, plug it in, and turn it on. I made cold air and return air ducts that hook up to the unit and walla , cool air comes in through some well hidden holes in the floorboard. It takes all of 5 minutes to set up or take down. The result is a quiet sleep, all night long. Window unit was $175 from Home Depot and even has a remote so you can change temperature settings. But, it only works if you are hooked up to 110V service---no boon docking.

[Tampatomgirl]

Thanks for the thoughts. I would never let it hang outside of the AS! That would be pretty tacky. My closet is 25" deep x 60" wide x 60" high. Plenty of room to be able to sacrifice a little. I don't have a problem cutting a vent into the side. I should be able to build a metal box around the back of the unit to force the heat out & also cut down on interior noise. There are very quiet units available. I can drain the condensation through the floor & hook ip to the existing ductwork. I guess what I'm looking for is total CFMs needed to cool this space. If anybody knows. The rooftop units average CFM is 320. I have units, but so far have only used the front one.

[Rich W]

Tacky is as tacky does.
This was in an otherwise nice trailer park in Kissimmee, FL. I don't know how they managed to get this in there and stay. It's not a cheap place either, not expensive, but not cheap.

But it does have a window unit for the A/C

[Hittenstiehl]

And yet she is still a beauty in the rough.

[Tampatomgirl]

Now, that's funny! Thanks for sharing.

[Belegedhel]

There are several issues with using a window unit installed in cabinetry as you describe. When a unit is installed in the window frame, On the interior side of the unit, the unit must be able to draw in air from the room, pass it across the cooling heat exchangers, and then it is blown back out into the room. The furnace you plan to replace does essentially the same thing, so you may be able to accomplish this with your existing ducting. On the exterior side of the window frame, essentially the same thing is happening. Ambient air is drawn into the unit from the top and sides, then pushed out through the heat exchanger. Your plan sounds like it accounts for the "exhaust," but you must also consider how you will get unobstructed air fed into the "outside" of your window unit so that it can be used in the exhaust process. You might be able to cut some holes in the floor and build ductwork around your unit, but it will get complicated.

The other issue is that warm air rises and cool air sinks. This is why typically AC units are on the roof, and furnaces are on the floor, so you get the air distributed around the cabin. With your AC mounted close to the floor, you will be able to have nice cool feet, but the air up around your head will remain warm. You could probably deal with this with some circulating fans, but this again, just adds more hardware and consumes more space.

Anyway, not saying it can't be done, just that it is more complex than creating a path for the exhaust air.

Good luck!

[kdickinson]

where there is a will there is a way!

[BigButtUgly]

Tampatomgirl: Don't know if your Excella might be a 345 w/ rear twins or if 1990 34' even was available w/ rear twins. In either case your solution will be easy, but first "Factors bearing on the problem" might be considered: (1) Unless you will live to be over 100 and all who might share in your estate will go before you ----DO NOT MAKE YOUR CAMPER A SCREWED UP MESS... (2) At approx 250 sq ft to cool, a 110v house window air is maintainable , cheap and doable. (3) If you've rear double bed - read no farther- or consider a conversion to a twin modification. (4) Reason being is window A/Cs are pretty much "line of sight" to work well. So...eliminate the night stand, create a rear hatch, mount the A/C on a roll out platform and to hide the ugliness when in use, make a canvas surround, bumper mountable. Or...... 110v A/Cs are available with 2 parts. The unit on your bumper is the cooling unit and the one inside distributes the cold air. I have not a clue, not knowing your floor plan, where to put the inside unit (as these too are best using line of sight placement) My gutted 1958 22' Caravanner has finally a smart floor plan. The rear twin mattress folds down from in front of the rear window (also doubles as a couch). The 8,000 BTU A/C , floor mounted, rolls out thru the new hatch. However I must fold down my spare tire first. To enable my 3400 watt tongue mounted generator to stay quieter and near idle, the bedroom is curtained off to only 6' wide. Thus, the unit stays on low cool, low fan, and stays off more than on. To cool the other fold down twin bed ( 2nd couch) at the opposite end of my rig, the A/C must stay on high cool, high fan. So for two people, wilderness camping is pretty much a must as the generator runs at 68 decibels ( or I need campground power). And "Quietstream" is yet another stupid Airstream idea keeping that roof mounted crap.

[Tampatomgirl]

It was just an idea. Obviously, i had considered airflow & would've replaced the cabinet mirrors with a metal grating of some sort, but i found a split unit online for under $500 that cools 400 sq. ft. I will mount the A/C to the bumper & install the blower in the kitchen area. I wanted to avoid removing the exterior skin, but i think this will be the best solution for me. Thanks for all your comments!!!

[BigButtUgly]

You Go Girl