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Old 01-23-2010, 06:44 PM   #1
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Where are the screws to remove the NT22?

Yes I know there are 100 posts on removing the terminal NT22A from a 70's trailer and I can now recite it from memory, Exhaust cover removed, rusted flange with two 4" screws extracted with a drill, lost 2 good bits in the process. Power disconnected. Gas line disconnected. Cover off. removed screws from faceplate. But I still can't find the hidden screws that are holding it in place. Feels like the bottom is stuck to the plenum, do I need a crow bar next?
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:59 PM   #2
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On mine there were 2 screws screwed to the floor at the very front edge.
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:24 PM   #3
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Removal of furnace

Step four: insert crow bar under base of unit between the plenum and heater casing. Using a hammer tap several times. Then lift up with crow bar using both hands puting your back in it. Now slide out furnace unit.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:42 PM   #4
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Step four: insert crow bar under base of unit between the plenum and heater casing. Using a hammer tap several times. Then lift up with crow bar using both hands puting your back in it. Now slide out furnace unit.
A man after my own heart, how sweet. My motto: if it doesn't fit get a bigger hammer.


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Old 01-23-2010, 11:50 PM   #5
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NT 22 A Heater is toast

Ok so I pulled it out blew it off cleaned it up showed it some love and then put it back in. Finally got the pilot to light. And when the 2 blue wires are crossed the solenoid in the back clicks but the fan doesn't start up, which the Suburban manual says should start immediately. Did notice that the fan was very hard to turn by hand so I'm guessing it's got a shot motor.
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:25 AM   #6
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Hi,

I rebuilt my NT-22A in the Spring of 09.
It was very difficult to find replacement parts.

Suburban used 2 different motors for this unit and one is no longer in production.
(The one I needed)
Ordered the other motor and had to have a face plate cut by a local machine shop.

Also,this model of furnace had a crossover tube that would deteriorate over time and will need replacing. ( In the late 70's, this model among others was recalled by Suburban for replacement of this tube).

Most folks on the forum will advise you to purchase a new unit instead of repairing the original.

I do have the manual if you need it.

Greg
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:26 AM   #7
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RH,

Here's a link to the Suburban manual for the early 70's models that may be of use to you.

Pix of Suburban NT-30sp replacing NT22 - Page 2 - Airstream Forums

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:28 PM   #8
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I just bought the heater motor last month from PPL motorhomes in Texas last month including the crossover pipe. Just gave them the part number from the manual and they found me a replacement. They were the only ones that could get me a motor.
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:53 PM   #9
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NT 22 A Heater is toast

Thanks Kevin for posting the Suburban manual a few weeks back, it has helped me pursue this great mystery. Perhaps I'm just trying to give the old girl one last breath of life. If you or Greg have nay feedback on this, is the blower cage hard to turn by hand? Mine seems that it binds up some, doesn't turn freely by hand. Perhaps this is why the blower motor is shot. I haven't tested that with a voltmeter but the manual says that when the thermostat engages the blower starts up instantly. Since that isn't happening but I hear the click of the solenoid trying to start things up then I'm assuming it's a bad motor. If the blower cage spins freely then perhaps mine is binding up which caused the motor to burn out, therefore I would need both motor and blower cage? The crosover pipe is the part that has a suction cup like rubber gasket that mates to the outer skin behind the cover?
Last what did the moter/crossover pipe cost from PPL? If a new NT 30SP can be bought from Colaws for $350 then the light bulb goes off fast if the parts are expensive.
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:35 PM   #10
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The crosover pipe is the part that has a suction cup like rubber gasket that mates to the outer skin behind the cover?
No, the crossover tube connects the blower assembly to the combustion chamber. Or something like that. It obviously crosses over and is only a couple of inches long and somewhere about 1 1/2 -2" diameter. It does not connect to the outer skin. When I pulled mine it had completely disintegrated and you could not even tell it was there except for the remains in the bottom of the furnace. Kind of like some alien shot it in a B sci fi.
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:43 PM   #11
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FYI Rich,

Somebody else posted (pls don't ask where) that 4 years ago they used a piece of radiator hose to replace that xover hose, and it was still fine.
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:42 PM   #12
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nt 22 A Heater is toast

Thanks on that, Lumatic. I must've been so excited that I got the unit out that I didn't even think where the mysterious crossover tube was. Then there was the brown fuzzy seal on the heat output connection at the cover plate. I believe that's what's called asbestos.
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