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Old 11-14-2015, 12:44 AM   #1
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what are the options for having a silver-colored A/C?

I've got a 1950 Flying Cloud. I hate to spoil the clean lines but I need to add an A/C unit. I'd prefer a low profile model. And I'd prefer it was silver-colored or shrouded in aluminum to match the trailer.

How can I add the A/C and minimize the visual impact?

Thanks!
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Old 11-14-2015, 12:47 AM   #2
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Rattle can paint the cover.
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Old 11-14-2015, 12:50 AM   #3
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You could have the cover painted silver with car paint, or you could form a cover over the plastic cover made of aluminum.

If you have access to a metal brake you could easily make a rudimentary cover that would look "right" on your older trailer.


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Old 11-14-2015, 05:37 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by FlyingCloud3 View Post
I've got a 1950 Flying Cloud. I hate to spoil the clean lines but I need to add an A/C unit. I'd prefer a low profile model. And I'd prefer it was silver-colored or shrouded in aluminum to match the trailer.

How can I add the A/C and minimize the visual impact?

Thanks!
You can get a split unit, and put the compressor and condenser outside, on the tongue, for example. The cooling part can be mounted in a cabinet, with the fan blowing the cool air out into the interior.
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:54 AM   #5
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You can also consider mounting an A/C inside a cabinet so that you have nothing on the roof. I know of 3 of us who have done it this way. Unfortunately, we have all documented it in longer restoration threads. Start with posts 346, 347 and 366 in this thread -- it has links to Toastie's and Becky's installs. You'll find three different methods of exhausting hot air.

It's a lot of work, but we're all quite happy with the result.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:07 AM   #6
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I hate to spoil the clean lines but I need to add an A/C unit. I'd prefer a low profile model. And I'd prefer it was silver-colored or shrouded in aluminum to match the trailer.
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Rattle can paint the cover.
Painting the A/C shroud is a good idea no matter what color you want it— even if you want it white. The plastic used in the shroud breaks down over time due to exposure to ultraviolet light and becomes brittle. Painting the shroud protects it from UV.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:22 AM   #7
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Question HMW Polyethylene plastic.....

FWIW.....I bought a shroud from ICON Direct and found out after the fact that it is not easily painted.

It's ok as long as white or black works for you....


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Old 11-14-2015, 10:02 AM   #8
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FWIW.....I bought a shroud from ICON Direct and found out after the fact that it is not easily painted.
Wet-sanding first does help. Using latex paint also helps because it's a "flexible" coating, unlike epoxies and acrylics.
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:06 AM   #9
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I'd consider something like this: LG Electronics 8,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner and Dehumidifier Function with Remote Control (48 Pints/Day)-LP0814WNR - The Home Depot

you're not making a permanent hole in your roof and can be vented through a side window.
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:37 AM   #10
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Kryon Fusion is for plastic and works very well for me.

As far a silver goes, I painted a plastic bucket with silver/chrome paint of some forgotten brand to make an Airstream trash can. It has taken a beating and held up great.
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:19 AM   #11
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Just had to replace the A/C on our 69 Safari. It was significant work because of the format of the original A/C which required only a small round hole at the entry point to the trailer. That A/C never did work very well anyway (my parents bought the trailer new) plus it dripped condensate all the time. So - new A/C. the shroud is black and I like it. The mechanic offered to paint it and once I saw it I thought it looked great. When it fades we may paint it back to silver but that will be a long time from now. Leaking is fixed now and it has a small pump in the collection pan to pump condensate out. Definitely worth every penny
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:49 AM   #12
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Question

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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Wet-sanding first does help. Using latex paint also helps because it's a "flexible" coating, unlike epoxies and acrylics.
I finally gave up on duplicating the blue I added to the stock shroud.....



....tried 800 WS, plus heating the surface with a heat gun to draw the resin to the surface. But even after a wipe down with prepsol and a tack rag the AS decal slid off after the first wet-down.



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Old 11-14-2015, 12:55 PM   #13
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I used Kryon Fusion a few years back and it has held up well. To avoid issues with the existing lettering, I made a template which was an elongated oval to cover the decals and taped it in place. The remainder was prepped and painted metallic silver. The taped portion was removed and the whole given a clear coat final layer.
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:33 PM   #14
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Ue a primer that is formulated for plastic, you can get them at Sherwin Williams, give it a couple coats, then get a can of satin sheen of aluminum paint, (either brush on or rattle can), and you'll be good to go....

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