truck cab airconditioner

[sumsmug]

Hi

I'm currently about 50% of the way through our '69 caravel gutting and am starting to plan the refit. I want to add AC (I can't imagine what this weekend woudl have been like without it), but I really dont like the roof units. So I'm looking for alternatives (I've seen the window unit in the slide out door).

In my research I came across truck cab units like this one:

products - Dometic

I as thinking I could mount the external unit on the trailer a-frame.

Has anyone tried fitting such a unit to their airstream? Any reason I should not consider this route? Any other ideas?

Cheers

Caius

[Minno]

Looks intriguing, but it says it needs 24 Volts DC for the fan. That's an immediate concern that I see.

Chris

[sumsmug]

yeah I saw that... but I was thinking that either
a) a run a 24v circuit from my two batteries (uck).
b) I provide a mains->24v converter which are not overly expensive

[Melody Ranch]

I still cannot put the idea into action. I just don't like the external portion. I'd like to mount it underneath...maybe. I do think the split systems these folks have may be able to work....if you have the room. My 47 just will not hack it....darn!
AAP - Providing Power, Comfort and Control Systems for Motorcoaches, Trucks, Specialty Vehicles, Trailers and Other Demanding Applications Worldwide

[Jammer]

There are some products made for the purpose. Take a look at:

Welcome to ProAir LLC -- 110/220/12 Volt Units

You can also piece things together. Here is one site:

Rear Air Conditioners RV Van SUV Specialty Vehicles

Also some pieces and parts:

Twin Eagle : Experts in Off Road Air Conditioning

One fact to consider is that a 120 volt compressor can be used with components intended for mounting in a vehicle whether 120 volt or 12 volt. The refrigerant doesn't know what voltage all the parts are. You just have to think through the control mechanism and add relays as required.

A commercial refrigeration guy would probably be more help than anyone on a project like this as they are accustomed to mixing and matching.

[Jammer]

So as an example you could have the Proair 105 skirt mount condensor, 5"x12"x 32" long, mounted in a compartment with an outside door in such a way as to pull air from through the floor and exhaust through perforations in the door.

Then you could mount the 925 evaporator, or the airtech 1100 evaporator inside somewhere convenient, maybe in an overhead compartment, and duct it out if desired just as you would a furnace. A return grill would also be necessary, but easy to add.

Then you find a place to put a compressor:

A/C Compressor, R22 - Air Conditioner Compressors - Air Conditioners - HVACR : Grainger Industrial Supply

Now, all the stuff has to be plumbed up with appropriate lines, charging valves, expansion valve, filter/dryer, high and low pressure switches, and controls. Then it has to be evacuated and charged with the right amount of refrigerant and oil.

Not a trivial project but then again if it were we wouldn't all have the big warts on the tops of our traylahs. And it's still not huge. There are, again, commercial refrigeration people that do setups like that every day, for food service and grocery stores and other places where it isn't feasible to put the compressor and condenser right next to the cooler.

[SmokelessJoe]

You can also use a residential/ commercial split air system, like I did.

This is the LG Art Cool inside, on the rear wall. 22” square, 5” deep.





The compressor sits out on the tongue:






More information in my complete main thread, here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...tml#post628818


Sergei

[Jammer]

Excellent work there, Sergei.

Any comments on how well it works, now that you've had it for a while? Anything you would have done differently?

[NJtoNC]

ok, heres an idea and maybe some feedback would help me too as i hate the rooftop units...
since you really cant run the a/c on battery power anyway, i was thinking of building in a window unit into a cabinet on the curbside. there is a access door where the sewer hose used to be stored, and that would open for venting when the a/c is in use. i think i would even leave the a/c electrical plug separate from the AS electrical, and just run an extension cord for the rare event i actually use it.

see access door to the left of entarance to the :


see design concept;



the dark area is the a/c, to the left is the entrance door, behind the cabinet is the access panel. the a/c would have a vent to the front for cold air into the trailer and out the access door for venting to outside. to operate a/c i'd open the panel door that has a 6" ish chain so door doesnt swing.

thoughts on that idea? would that work you for you sumsmug?

[sumsmug]

NJtoNC

interesting... I would have to put a microswitch on the outside door and a relay to the AC... otherwise I would surely forget to open the vent door before turning on the AC., then wonder why it was only getting hotter in the trailer

[Jammer]

There have been some conversions like that, some well done, some not.

I have through-wall mounted window units in my stick house. It is vitally important to have good airflow to the exterior portion of the air conditioner. There are units designed for wall mounting that only require venting on the rear, that you could use. Otherwise, window units all have side vents that must be kept open.

Dometic makes an air conditioner with a ducted outlet intended for mounting in the lower side compartment of RVs built on a bus chassis. The ducting requirements and mounting requirements are fairly specific and inflexible but you could still probably make it work better than a window unit.

[SmokelessJoe]

Hi Jammer, others.

I’ve been living in my LG Art Cooled ARGOSY for 3 summers now. There is nothing that I don’t like about it.

It has performed flawlessly. This week we have been in the grips of a 35 degree Celsius heat wave. Late at night, I mostly turn it off just to have a fresh air sleep. But two nights ago it ran all through the night, about 35 hours or more in total.

The LG is very sophisticated, having 5 or 6 different settings. One of them imitates ocean breeze using fuzzy logic. It’s wonderful.

Most of all, it eerily quiet, inside and out. It’s so quiet that sometimes you actually have to look to see if the compressor fan is turning to know the system is running.





And my trailer top is wart-free too.

NJ to NC: a disadvantage of putting a window unit at floor level is that heat rises; cool air falls.

Sergei

[Melody Ranch]

In my continuing quest I am thinking of a Thru the Wall (sleeved) (NOT wall or window AC.) I have a new Airstream louvered door and frame I think was for a fridge ventilation. I also have available a shop to make a louvered panel with polished 2024. The help I need is figuring out how to make the fit of the AC face to the louvered areas water tight and keep the inside dry and protected. Any ideas or experience here??

[Jammer]

It can't be water tight. You have to have a condensate drain, and any water that splashes in should be caught by the pan and go down the drain.

[Melody Ranch]

Fabing that drain pan....where it goes, how it incorporates the wall spacing and ribs. But, it has to be sealed at the tops and sides at the sleeve...somehow.