Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-06-2010, 05:45 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
sumsmug's Avatar
 
1985 25' Sovereign
1966 17' Caravel
Philly , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 45
truck cab airconditioner

Hi

I'm currently about 50% of the way through our '69 caravel gutting and am starting to plan the refit. I want to add AC (I can't imagine what this weekend woudl have been like without it), but I really dont like the roof units. So I'm looking for alternatives (I've seen the window unit in the slide out door).

In my research I came across truck cab units like this one:

products - Dometic

I as thinking I could mount the external unit on the trailer a-frame.

Has anyone tried fitting such a unit to their airstream? Any reason I should not consider this route? Any other ideas?

Cheers

Caius
__________________

__________________
sumsmug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 06:17 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,323
Looks intriguing, but it says it needs 24 Volts DC for the fan. That's an immediate concern that I see.

Chris
__________________

__________________
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 06:26 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
sumsmug's Avatar
 
1985 25' Sovereign
1966 17' Caravel
Philly , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 45
yeah I saw that... but I was thinking that either
a) a run a 24v circuit from my two batteries (uck).
b) I provide a mains->24v converter which are not overly expensive
__________________
sumsmug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 06:36 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Melody Ranch's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,960
Images: 78
Send a message via Skype™ to Melody Ranch
I have researched this idea....

I still cannot put the idea into action. I just don't like the external portion. I'd like to mount it underneath...maybe. I do think the split systems these folks have may be able to work....if you have the room. My 47 just will not hack it....darn!
AAP - Providing Power, Comfort and Control Systems for Motorcoaches, Trucks, Specialty Vehicles, Trailers and Other Demanding Applications Worldwide
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
Melody Ranch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 06:53 PM   #5
Wise Elder
 
Jammer's Avatar
 
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river , Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,119
There are some products made for the purpose. Take a look at:

Welcome to ProAir LLC -- 110/220/12 Volt Units

You can also piece things together. Here is one site:

Rear Air Conditioners RV Van SUV Specialty Vehicles

Also some pieces and parts:

Twin Eagle : Experts in Off Road Air Conditioning

One fact to consider is that a 120 volt compressor can be used with components intended for mounting in a vehicle whether 120 volt or 12 volt. The refrigerant doesn't know what voltage all the parts are. You just have to think through the control mechanism and add relays as required.

A commercial refrigeration guy would probably be more help than anyone on a project like this as they are accustomed to mixing and matching.
__________________
Jammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 07:07 PM   #6
Wise Elder
 
Jammer's Avatar
 
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river , Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,119
So as an example you could have the Proair 105 skirt mount condensor, 5"x12"x 32" long, mounted in a compartment with an outside door in such a way as to pull air from through the floor and exhaust through perforations in the door.

Then you could mount the 925 evaporator, or the airtech 1100 evaporator inside somewhere convenient, maybe in an overhead compartment, and duct it out if desired just as you would a furnace. A return grill would also be necessary, but easy to add.

Then you find a place to put a compressor:

A/C Compressor, R22 - Air Conditioner Compressors - Air Conditioners - HVACR : Grainger Industrial Supply

Now, all the stuff has to be plumbed up with appropriate lines, charging valves, expansion valve, filter/dryer, high and low pressure switches, and controls. Then it has to be evacuated and charged with the right amount of refrigerant and oil.

Not a trivial project but then again if it were we wouldn't all have the big warts on the tops of our traylahs. And it's still not huge. There are, again, commercial refrigeration people that do setups like that every day, for food service and grocery stores and other places where it isn't feasible to put the compressor and condenser right next to the cooler.
__________________
Jammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 07:30 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
SmokelessJoe's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,422
You can also use a residential/ commercial split air system, like I did.

This is the LG Art Cool inside, on the rear wall. 22Ē square, 5Ē deep.


Click image for larger version

Name:	LG inside.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	93.5 KB
ID:	106392


The compressor sits out on the tongue:


Click image for larger version

Name:	compressor.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	209.7 KB
ID:	106391



More information in my complete main thread, here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...tml#post628818


Sergei
__________________
SmokelessJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 07:46 PM   #8
Wise Elder
 
Jammer's Avatar
 
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river , Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,119
Excellent work there, Sergei.

Any comments on how well it works, now that you've had it for a while? Anything you would have done differently?
__________________
Jammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 09:29 PM   #9
Birdie Momma
 
NJtoNC's Avatar
 
1957 26' Overlander
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Rutherford Co. , North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 904
ok, heres an idea and maybe some feedback would help me too as i hate the rooftop units...
since you really cant run the a/c on battery power anyway, i was thinking of building in a window unit into a cabinet on the curbside. there is a access door where the sewer hose used to be stored, and that would open for venting when the a/c is in use. i think i would even leave the a/c electrical plug separate from the AS electrical, and just run an extension cord for the rare event i actually use it.

see access door to the left of entarance to the :


see design concept;



the dark area is the a/c, to the left is the entrance door, behind the cabinet is the access panel. the a/c would have a vent to the front for cold air into the trailer and out the access door for venting to outside. to operate a/c i'd open the panel door that has a 6" ish chain so door doesnt swing.

thoughts on that idea? would that work you for you sumsmug?
__________________
'57 Overlander | '56 Flying Cloud | '51 Spartanette
NJtoNC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2010, 09:24 AM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
sumsmug's Avatar
 
1985 25' Sovereign
1966 17' Caravel
Philly , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 45
NJtoNC

interesting... I would have to put a microswitch on the outside door and a relay to the AC... otherwise I would surely forget to open the vent door before turning on the AC., then wonder why it was only getting hotter in the trailer
__________________
sumsmug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2010, 10:53 AM   #11
Wise Elder
 
Jammer's Avatar
 
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river , Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,119
There have been some conversions like that, some well done, some not.

I have through-wall mounted window units in my stick house. It is vitally important to have good airflow to the exterior portion of the air conditioner. There are units designed for wall mounting that only require venting on the rear, that you could use. Otherwise, window units all have side vents that must be kept open.

Dometic makes an air conditioner with a ducted outlet intended for mounting in the lower side compartment of RVs built on a bus chassis. The ducting requirements and mounting requirements are fairly specific and inflexible but you could still probably make it work better than a window unit.
__________________
Jammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2010, 02:45 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
SmokelessJoe's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,422
Hi Jammer, others.

Iíve been living in my LG Art Cooled ARGOSY for 3 summers now. There is nothing that I donít like about it.

It has performed flawlessly. This week we have been in the grips of a 35 degree Celsius heat wave. Late at night, I mostly turn it off just to have a fresh air sleep. But two nights ago it ran all through the night, about 35 hours or more in total.

The LG is very sophisticated, having 5 or 6 different settings. One of them imitates ocean breeze using fuzzy logic. Itís wonderful.

Most of all, it eerily quiet, inside and out. Itís so quiet that sometimes you actually have to look to see if the compressor fan is turning to know the system is running.


Click image for larger version

Name:	comp hitch.jpg
Views:	83
Size:	344.1 KB
ID:	106477


And my trailer top is wart-free too.

NJ to NC: a disadvantage of putting a window unit at floor level is that heat rises; cool air falls.

Sergei
__________________
SmokelessJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2010, 03:50 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
Melody Ranch's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,960
Images: 78
Send a message via Skype™ to Melody Ranch
You Guys are smart...help me out.

In my continuing quest I am thinking of a Thru the Wall (sleeved) (NOT wall or window AC.) I have a new Airstream louvered door and frame I think was for a fridge ventilation. I also have available a shop to make a louvered panel with polished 2024. The help I need is figuring out how to make the fit of the AC face to the louvered areas water tight and keep the inside dry and protected. Any ideas or experience here??
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
Melody Ranch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2010, 04:53 PM   #14
Wise Elder
 
Jammer's Avatar
 
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river , Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,119
It can't be water tight. You have to have a condensate drain, and any water that splashes in should be caught by the pan and go down the drain.
__________________

__________________
Jammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
8ft. versus 6ft. truck bed on crew cab chaimemet Tow Vehicles 30 12-18-2007 09:50 AM
Extended Cab or Crew Cab 2500HD w/Duramax for TV??? TomR Tow Vehicles 19 01-31-2007 07:27 PM
New Airconditioner boltos Our Community 13 06-24-2003 12:31 PM
airconditioner Piper Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 7 06-20-2003 05:12 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.