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04-01-2010, 02:42 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
New Haven
, Connecticut
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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Trouble removing my suburban furnace
I have a '72 overlander. I'm trying to remove the Suburban NT 30 funace to bench test it. I have the Airstream service manual and Suburban installation/instruction manual.
I've removed the heater face cover, the four screws from the exterior vent and disconnected the gas line.
I'm having trouble locating the the two screws in the lower face of the heater. I found one on the right side below the information plate, but there does not seem to be one on the left side. I've tried sliding the unit out of the cabinet, but it does not move at all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jack Paulishen
New Haven, CT
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04-01-2010, 03:32 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1978 25' Tradewind
San Bernardino
, California
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 39
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Furnace removal
There is an outside screw that goes through the the intake air vent and attaches to the core unit. It is a long screw about 3 1/2 inches long. Once that is removed you will have to wiggle the core out by moving it side to side as you pull it out.
Rick N
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04-01-2010, 03:38 PM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
1969 25' Tradewind
1971 18' Caravel
Berkeley Springs
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 423
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You can check the attached pdf.
On my 69 the NT30 had the two screws at the rear holding it to the base, the screws on the cover (4 short ones and 2 long ones), and the gas pipe going through the side of the housing, then it slide out. It was stuck at first due to some rusting on the base slides, but with a little coercion it came out.
Suburban Dynatrail Models.pdf
__________________
Tom
Res nolunt diu male administrari.
WDCU Unit #170
Air #7085
TAC VA-4
WBCCI #2641
VAC
71 Caravel
69 Tradewind
My YouTube Channel
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04-01-2010, 08:11 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
New Haven
, Connecticut
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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Thanks! I got it out by wiggling it and pulling alot harder than I had been.
Thanks again.
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04-07-2010, 09:59 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
1972 23' Safari
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,356
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Furnace Removal
A crow bar helped me after removing all suspected screws. Rust was glueing it together.
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02-06-2016, 05:55 AM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
gainesville
, Florida
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 7
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I also have a 1969 Tradewind and would like to remove the furnance. Did you have to take the cabinets apart to get it out? And if so how did you accomplish this?
Thanks!
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02-06-2016, 11:10 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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I have a 1978 Tradewind, and it took me 2-1/2 hours to get the old furnace out and another 2-1/2 hours to get the new one in.
Sigh.
__________________
"Between what matters and what seems to matter, how should the world we know judge wisely?" - E.C. Bentley, Trent's Last Case
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02-07-2016, 03:58 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
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I have a 72 Overlander. You have to remember to remove the screws that hold the exhaust port on the outside of the trailer, along with any other that hold it in. Also remove and label 12 volt wires. Once that is complete it should slide out the front of the cabinet, it is not heavy perhaps 35 lbs.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
__________________
Lucky Dave, Denver NC
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02-07-2016, 08:28 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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I purchased my 66 Trade Wind with no furnace. I installed a new NT 30 as it was readily available, athough more BTU than I needed.
Old Airstream cabinets are fairly easy to disassemble. The new furnace system was more challenging to install.
The 66 Trade Wind had a rather unique heating system. Warm air was delivered under the galley cabinets. Cool air was returned via floor registers and underfloor oval ducts. I decided to reverse that flow with warm air being delivered to the gaucho floor vent, and the rear bath floor vent. I also ducted warm air to my new waste water tank compartment. I did this as storage space in my twin bed Trade Wind would be reduced by running above floor heating ducts through the cabinets.
I built a under floor plenum out of furnace tin to receive the full heated air from the furnace (maybe 180 degrees), and then distribute it to the registers. The system seems to work, but not tested in subfreezing weather yet. But it will not win any efficiency awards.
David
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