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Old 09-28-2008, 03:37 PM   #1
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Thermostats

1. I replaced my old dinosaur furnace with an NT30. It works too good. When the Tradewind gets up to temp it begins a rapid cylcling which is annoying. My thermostat is original and not adjustable. Any recommendations on a replacement thermostat which I can set to increase the range between the on/off temperatures.

2. I have a Penguin AC wiithout an external thermostat. When it reaches the cool temp the AC shuts off but the fan keeps running. Can I do anything so the fan shuts on/off automatically with the temp, like putting in a thermostat for the fan?

Thanks
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Old 09-28-2008, 03:47 PM   #2
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I'd like to see an answer to this too. The on/off switch on my thermostat is difficult to move and even more difficult to tell if you have it actually turned off. More than once, it has drained my batteries because it's turning itself on when we are not using the trailer. The temp adjustment only goes down to around 55, so temps below that un-necessarily kick the furnace on.

Something digital would be great.

thanks,

Virginia
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:10 AM   #3
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I checked in my local hardware. Their thermostats all run on 24v.
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:07 AM   #4
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Be sure to get a digital thermostat, and not the ones with the mercury switch.
I don't know how to set the "anticipator" adjustment on the digital thermostat, but the mercury switch ones will always be out of adjustment is your trailer is not absolutely dead level.
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
1. I replaced my old dinosaur furnace with an NT30. It works too good. When the Tradewind gets up to temp it begins a rapid cylcling which is annoying. My thermostat is original and not adjustable. Any recommendations on a replacement thermostat which I can set to increase the range between the on/off temperatures.

2. I have a Penguin AC wiithout an external thermostat. When it reaches the cool temp the AC shuts off but the fan keeps running. Can I do anything so the fan shuts on/off automatically with the temp, like putting in a thermostat for the fan?

Thanks
Hi Lumatic;
I have brand new NT 30 with stock thermostat which came with it. It is a Suburban Bi metal and works just fine. Perhaps your is defective. As for forgetting to shut it off I have run positive wire to the furnace right below the thermostat and installed LED lighted ON OFF switch. The bright LED will not let you forget to shut it off. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
PS; I think they sell for about $35.00 I think # is 661154.
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:54 PM   #6
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if you use a digital stat with batteries that operate the switching , the voltage wont matter because it is just an on off switch. the anticipater does not have to be set on these. the bimetal stats are good for this application also and do not require batteries to operate but you will have to set the anticipater, normally around 4.5.you might check the anticipater setting on old stat, could be cause of short cycling. on the a/c unit you can fix the fan to cycle off and on with the compressor but you will need some circuit knowledge to move the fan wire from the power feed to the relay connection with the compressor.
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Old 09-30-2008, 10:13 PM   #7
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Huh?

It's obvious I need Thermostat 101.

What is meant by bi metal and an anticipator?

If I wire my AC as described above can I still run the fan only without the AC?
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Old 09-30-2008, 11:54 PM   #8
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Thermostat

Hi, on my newer trailer I replaced the mechanical [bi-metal] thermostat with a digital one; This was one of the best fixes I have done to my trailer. Set the temp and forget it. The bi-metal thermostat never let you actually set it at an accurrate temperature. [Too high, too low, too medium as W.C. Fields would say] The anticipator, as I understand it, allows time for a degree change before kicking back on and off like you said your's is doing. If you wire your A/C fan to go on and off at the same time as the compressor it will have a larger draw of power to start; Which is even more when hot. That extra load could mean the differrence between working or not with a marginal power supply such as a portable generator or 20 amp service. And without the fan running you, most likely, would have a longer cycle period before coming on again since the evaporator would stay cold longer.
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:00 AM   #9
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robert is right about a surge of power at start up each time the comes onif the fan and compressor comr on at the same time which could cause tripping of main breaker if you have a lot of appliances on at that time but generally should not be a problem. also the digital stat is the best out of all of them (i prefer honeywell brand). can you turn fan on by itself, it depends on how the unit powers up. on a standard home system you have a contactor for the compressor and a relay for the fan. when the stat tells the compressor to come on it also tells the fan to run but you can have the stat tell just the fan to run by it self and the compressor will come on when the temperature exceeds the set point. so you will need to find out if your unit has the individual relays for each component. as for run time it has been my experience that if you have the off when the compressor is off the trailer heats up quicker and the compressor comes on more often, but because of that it also removes a little more moisture from the air so you feel better. this also applys to your home system.
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:56 AM   #10
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When I bought my new A/C, which is a Carrier, if you wanted the remote thermostat you had to buy the inside panel that was made to accept a thermostat. It was too much for me at the time so I didn't get it. Ask Lewster, he will know.
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:25 PM   #11
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My thermostat photo

Here is a photo of my thermostat as far as I know it is original. I'm not expert in these gizmos but I don't see an anticipator. Am I out of luck as far as adjusting the temperature to furnace on / off range?
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:52 PM   #12
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I don't see an anticipator on your t-stat. You have a bi-metal type so you don't need to be perfectly level. The coiled metal is the bi-metal part. A mercury type would have a glass buble with liquid mercury in it.
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Old 10-17-2008, 06:20 PM   #13
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The reason for a furnace short cycling (assuming the tstat is not just plain defective) is that the furnace is oversized for the application. The NT30 is what 30,000 BTU? That's like putting 250,000 BTU furnace in a 1,500 sq ft house!

I don't know what they were thinkin' when they built these trailers. Sure they're not insulated as well as a home but it's a very small space and air infiltration is low. Ideally a furnace should cycle no more than 5 times per hour. The closer you can get to steady state the better. Does anyone build a modulating furnace for RV use? Seems like it would be an ideal application.

Another great application might be recirculating hot water heat. I'd think a 5-10 gallon system would work well with an on demand type heat exchanger.
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Old 10-17-2008, 06:30 PM   #14
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Here is a link to an old thread regarding my replacement of my factory thermostat with a Hunter. Hope this helps, it made quite a difference.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ostat-246.html

I'll also look for an old thread where someone did the conversion to allow the wall thermostat to control the air conditioner. It will require additional wiring and personally was pretty much more than what I wanted to tackle.

My current air conditioner is controlled by the wall thermostat. Note that the compressor does not come on at the same time that the fan comes on. First the fan comes on and then shortly there after you hear the compressor cycle on.

Jack
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