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Old 07-19-2013, 10:43 AM   #29
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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The most reliable AC will be the one with the least amount of electronic BS to mess up. Probably 90% of the posts on AC problems on this forum have to do with the comfort control system not working on the newer trailers. On my Dometic Briskair, there is a mechanical thermostat and that is about it.

Perry
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:02 PM   #30
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Veggie,


The condenser unit is 30" by 21" high and 9.5" deep. It weighs 73 pounds.

You could install a double split model I suppose. The LG Art Cool unit that I installed is more than adequate to do my 24' trailer however.

Any cooling system, ducted or not, is going to be cooler at the source.

If you want to go double you should check specs out on the internet. The condenser unit needed to drive two internal blower units might be larger; I'm not sure.

The total weight of my system, inside and out, is 90 pounds, about the same as rooftops.

Perry,

The simpler, pre-computer chip automobiles of yesterday didn't have the reliability nor the sophistication of today's cars and the same is probably true of AC's.


Sergei
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:18 PM   #31
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SmokelessJoe
Is it just me that I can't find an Art Cool like yours but "Dual Zone" ?
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:51 PM   #32
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1979 23' Safari
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Split for a Minuet

I have been watching the conversation on the split systems and think they may be an answer for my situation. I just brought home a, new to me, '78 Minuet 6.7. Interestingly it came from the 2nd owners in Maine and had never had AC. So the challenge, living in the Southwest, was cooling. Based in Sergei's experience I am considering mounting the indoor unit somewhere on the bulkhead between the bath and kitchen. The compressor would go on the rear bumper after I remove the cover/access door and replace it with chrome diamond plate in the center and 2 access doors on either side The advange would be proximity to the AC, landline, breaker box and to the interior cooling unity. To offset weight I would re configure the front A frame tongue and move the propane bottle mount forward enough to accommodate a spare tire..

Since this would be combined heat pump and AC, I would remove the furnace from under the sink to remove some weight. Any further weight needing to be added to get proper tongue weight would be via fresh water in the tank. I have, like others, found that Minuets tow better with some water in the tank.

I am still very much in the thinking stage, but it seems like an answer and an alternative to cutting into the roof for a conventional roof mount AC.

Would appreciate hearing any comments.

Greg
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Old 09-14-2013, 05:28 PM   #33
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I too have thought some about the split system, and am still waiting for more info. My biggest interest is whether the compressor could be fitted into a recessed compartment at the rear of the trailer so only the fan is visible to the outside. I don't care for the look of the compressor on the outside on the tongue or bumper for that matter. I know it says there are vents on both sides , but how much clearance around them are required?
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:07 PM   #34
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I cannot speak about how Coleman is built today, but I have the orginal that was installed on my 1973 Airstream. when I was replacing the shroud I found a 1975 or 78 date on the unit. I have cleaned the filters and use it all the time. It works extremely well. In the dead of summer it will keep our trailer very cool. I just hope it hangs in there. I bought a used one off a salvaged RV for my son's trailer and it works just as well.

Brian
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:48 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
I too have thought some about the split system, and am still waiting for more info. My biggest interest is whether the compressor could be fitted into a recessed compartment at the rear of the trailer so only the fan is visible to the outside. I don't care for the look of the compressor on the outside on the tongue or bumper for that matter. I know it says there are vents on both sides , but how much clearance around them are required?
Can the compressor be disconnected for travel then connected at the campsite? If so, no need to permanently affix to tongue or bumper - but I have no idea if that makes sense or not...
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:08 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Can the compressor be disconnected for travel then connected at the campsite? If so, no need to permanently affix to tongue or bumper - but I have no idea if that makes sense or not...
I don't believe so. The outdoor and indoor units are connected by refrigerant lines

Dan
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:17 AM   #37
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I don't believe so. The outdoor and indoor units are connected by refrigerant lines

Dan
Bummer. I was hoping there could be some sort of quick connect/disconnect fittings for that kind of installation. Some friends of ours have one installed in their basement office at their home and it is SO quiet and effective...I love the idea of replacing the rooftop unit with something like this but would assume (again) that permanently attaching the compressor anywhere on the trailer would transfer some sound while operating.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:43 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
I too have thought some about the split system, and am still waiting for more info. My biggest interest is whether the compressor could be fitted into a recessed compartment at the rear of the trailer so only the fan is visible to the outside. I don't care for the look of the compressor on the outside on the tongue or bumper for that matter. I know it says there are vents on both sides , but how much clearance around them are required?
goshawk,

I have considered that option too. In my case, if I remove the heater/furnace, under the sink, there would be space to make a recessed cabinet. I know others have used similar configurations in Casita trailer, mounting window air conditioners. The trick, as I recall is to provide a separate, outside source for your incoming air and and exhaust port for the "hot air"(I am not an expert...this is merely a recollection of what others have done on Casitas)

With that in mind you would need exhaust opening, similar to the refrigerator opening and a source or vent for incoming air, perhaps through the floor. Finally you would need to enclose the compressor in a way that would separate source air from exhaust air.

Again...no expert....just some pondering.

Greg
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:57 AM   #39
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Yes ....the devil is in the details! Having never even seen this type of compressor system I am not sure where the intake and exhaust for that matter is at. It would be fairly easy to modify with a bit of planning though.
Barry
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:14 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Bummer. I was hoping there could be some sort of quick connect/disconnect fittings for that kind of installation. Some friends of ours have one installed in their basement office at their home and it is SO quiet and effective...I love the idea of replacing the rooftop unit with something like this but would assume (again) that permanently attaching the compressor anywhere on the trailer would transfer some sound while operating.
There is options out there with a quick connect, as a matter of fact is a very common practice in the Trucking HAVC world. Dometic has some cool systems that we are considering, a 15K BTU can run in a 15A plug or form a 2K Gen
take a look
Choices - Dometic
Hope this helps
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