The Holy Grail of the ACs

[ginabone]

Sergi,

Great that you chimed in as well! I was so interested on how the AC performed for you. I noticed that the distance from the outdoor unit to the Argosy front is no more than 2" ( by the looks of the pictures) I was thinking to have around an average of 6" clearance to my outdoor unit when it's all installed. I'm getting pretty exited with this project, hope to start in October. Anyone want to buy a new Dometic roof AC ...Cheap?

Zeke

[perryg114]

How do you get the extended Dometic Warrantee and what is the cost?

Perry

Originally Posted by lewster

There are currently 6 different units available form 4 manufacturers:

• DOMETIC Penguin II low profile in high capacity (15K)
Brisk Air 15K higher profile

• RVP COLEMAN Mach 8 super low profile 15K
Mach 3 higher profile 15K

• Advent (CHINESE) 15K high profile

• Atwood (new to market) 15K high profile

My opinions:

Dometic has the best extended warranty of all available units 2 year factory plus optional 2 + 1 year additional warranty. This means a factory replacement of a bad unit for 4 years parts and labor, plus parts only in the 5th year for around $100....servicable thru ANY authorized Dometic service center.

RVP has a 2 year factory warranty with available extended 3 year additional. From my experience with RVP, they typically want the defective unit FIXED rather than REPLACED after the initial 2 year warranty and most RV Techs and service centers are not capable of changing compressors, adding process valves, finding and fixing leaks or re-charging systems. Regular residential A/C techs want nothing to do with RV units!

Advent has a 2 year warranty and will replace bad units. I have only seen a couple of these, and I'm not impressed with the design, construction or warranty. They are new to the RV air conditioning world and have a very long way to go!

Atwood has been in the furnace and water heater business for quite a while. They have recently entered the RV refrigeration scene with ammonia/helium gas/absorption units. Haven't seen any of these in new trailers or MoHOs yet so I can't comment. They also recently entered the RV air conditioning market. Haven't seen any of their units yet, but they claim to get the equivalent of 18K of cooling from a 15K unbid

If it is anything like their smoke and mirrors EXT series of water heaters, you can have them!

As far as reliability, Dometic and RVP have my vote....about equally. I will say that I replace a lot more Dometic units, but that is because they have the commanding presence in the RV field. I have also noticed a move by the very high end motor home manufacturers to go with the new RVP Coleman units over the Dometic versions.

Which is best? Toss-up! Ford, Chevy or Dodge..........

Questions?

[lewster]

When you register your initial 2 year warranty with Dometic, you can get the information on the extended warranty. All transactions are directly with Dometic's warranty folks.

From my understanding. the cost is around $100.

[perryg114]

I might check into that if it is not too late. My warrantee period is not up yet.

Perry

[VeggieBullet]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

The holy grail? What about Sergei's (smokeless joe) LG “Art Cool” split system air conditioner?

His thread
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...tml#post967026

Ye are thinking about it, may be a double split unit? 1 for bedroom and 1 livingroom/kitchen area, just dont know where to put it

Originally Posted by slowmover

A 5'er the size of his will need good air distribution . . the downfall of the split system. OTOH there are commercial / bus systems that can go in a big storage compartment. $$$$

We have a huge storage compartment in the front that is for the generator and we have no plans on getting one, so may be there?

Originally Posted by Aviator

I installed the Penguin II 15K unit as a replacement for my Penguin I 13.5K unit in our 1997 34'. I also changed the interior ceiling mounted air box. The single unit does keep out trailer cool in the Atlanta Summer, but it is much louder inside the trailer than the old unit.

If I were doing it over again, I would have gone with another 13.5K unit in the middle of the trailer and an 11K unit in the rear bedroom.

Do you run both at the same time? or just the new unit keeps the trailer cool?
thanks

Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe

Lewster,

......

I agree with reinergirl that the Split AC is the Holy Grail.
Along with my diesel powered hydronic heating system I consider the Split AC, along with the macerator system, the best things accomplished in my renewal of the ARGOSY.

........

Sergei

What are the dimensions on your outside unit?
Also what do you think about a double split unit? 1 for the bedroom (may be a 9000btu) and 1 for the living room kitchen area?

Lewster:
What is your inputs about :
1) the Mach 8?
2) 2 low profile 15K BTUs Dometic with the dual zone control?
3) was talking to the service dept at lazydays and they mentioned a lot of issues with the Mach13, any comments?

[VeggieBullet]

Lewster:
What is your inputs about :
1) the Mach 8?
2) 2 low profile 15K BTUs Dometic with the dual zone control?
3) was talking to the service dept at lazydays and they mentioned a lot of issues with the Mach13, any comments?

[lewster]

Originally Posted by VeggieBullet

Lewster:
What is your inputs about :
1) the Mach 8?
2) 2 low profile 15K BTUs Dometic with the dual zone control?
3) was talking to the service dept at lazydays and they mentioned a lot of issues with the Mach13, any comments?

The Mach 8 has 2 motors and is the quietest, most efficient unit when operated on low fan speed. Some folks say that they are louder outside than the Dometics, but I have not experienced this. Remember that they do have 2 motors.

I am partial to the Dometic Penguins, as their connection system is easier to trouble shoot and their Comfort Control II system is the most advanced RV thermostat system currently available.

If the service department at LazyDays out there is anything like the one at their large location in Tampa, I have no faith in what they say or do. This is from personal experience and the constant complaints about them that I hear from my clients. I have not seen any significant issues with any of the RVP/Coleman product line.

Any other questions?

[kmaggard]

One huge consideration for me buying a new AC unit it to get one that is thermostat controlled. Most of the companies are making systems with thermostats. To sleep at night and have the AC kick off, including the blower, makes for a goods nights rest.

Several years ago I put a ducted unit in a 19ft Bambi and was able to modify it for air decent air flow even though there were no ducts. At the time it was one of the few ways to get the thermostat control and the big plus was the remote control it came with.

[perryg114]

The most reliable AC will be the one with the least amount of electronic BS to mess up. Probably 90% of the posts on AC problems on this forum have to do with the comfort control system not working on the newer trailers. On my Dometic Briskair, there is a mechanical thermostat and that is about it.

Perry

[SmokelessJoe]

Veggie,


The condenser unit is 30" by 21" high and 9.5" deep. It weighs 73 pounds.

You could install a double split model I suppose. The LG Art Cool unit that I installed is more than adequate to do my 24' trailer however.

Any cooling system, ducted or not, is going to be cooler at the source.

If you want to go double you should check specs out on the internet. The condenser unit needed to drive two internal blower units might be larger; I'm not sure.

The total weight of my system, inside and out, is 90 pounds, about the same as rooftops.

Perry,

The simpler, pre-computer chip automobiles of yesterday didn't have the reliability nor the sophistication of today's cars and the same is probably true of AC's.


Sergei

[VeggieBullet]

SmokelessJoe
Is it just me that I can't find an Art Cool like yours but "Dual Zone" ?

[apltrez]

I have been watching the conversation on the split systems and think they may be an answer for my situation. I just brought home a, new to me, '78 Minuet 6.7. Interestingly it came from the 2nd owners in Maine and had never had AC. So the challenge, living in the Southwest, was cooling. Based in Sergei's experience I am considering mounting the indoor unit somewhere on the bulkhead between the bath and kitchen. The compressor would go on the rear bumper after I remove the cover/access door and replace it with chrome diamond plate in the center and 2 access doors on either side The advange would be proximity to the AC, landline, breaker box and to the interior cooling unity. To offset weight I would re configure the front A frame tongue and move the propane bottle mount forward enough to accommodate a spare tire..

Since this would be combined heat pump and AC, I would remove the furnace from under the sink to remove some weight. Any further weight needing to be added to get proper tongue weight would be via fresh water in the tank. I have, like others, found that Minuets tow better with some water in the tank.

I am still very much in the thinking stage, but it seems like an answer and an alternative to cutting into the roof for a conventional roof mount AC.

Would appreciate hearing any comments.

Greg

[goshawks00]

I too have thought some about the split system, and am still waiting for more info. My biggest interest is whether the compressor could be fitted into a recessed compartment at the rear of the trailer so only the fan is visible to the outside. I don't care for the look of the compressor on the outside on the tongue or bumper for that matter. I know it says there are vents on both sides , but how much clearance around them are required?

[Lothlorian]

I cannot speak about how Coleman is built today, but I have the orginal that was installed on my 1973 Airstream. when I was replacing the shroud I found a 1975 or 78 date on the unit. I have cleaned the filters and use it all the time. It works extremely well. In the dead of summer it will keep our trailer very cool. I just hope it hangs in there. I bought a used one off a salvaged RV for my son's trailer and it works just as well.

Brian

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by goshawks00

I too have thought some about the split system, and am still waiting for more info. My biggest interest is whether the compressor could be fitted into a recessed compartment at the rear of the trailer so only the fan is visible to the outside. I don't care for the look of the compressor on the outside on the tongue or bumper for that matter. I know it says there are vents on both sides , but how much clearance around them are required?

Can the compressor be disconnected for travel then connected at the campsite? If so, no need to permanently affix to tongue or bumper - but I have no idea if that makes sense or not...

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Can the compressor be disconnected for travel then connected at the campsite? If so, no need to permanently affix to tongue or bumper - but I have no idea if that makes sense or not...

I don't believe so. The outdoor and indoor units are connected by refrigerant lines

Dan

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

I don't believe so. The outdoor and indoor units are connected by refrigerant lines

Dan

Bummer. I was hoping there could be some sort of quick connect/disconnect fittings for that kind of installation. Some friends of ours have one installed in their basement office at their home and it is SO quiet and effective...I love the idea of replacing the rooftop unit with something like this but would assume (again) that permanently attaching the compressor anywhere on the trailer would transfer some sound while operating.

[apltrez]

Originally Posted by goshawks00

I too have thought some about the split system, and am still waiting for more info. My biggest interest is whether the compressor could be fitted into a recessed compartment at the rear of the trailer so only the fan is visible to the outside. I don't care for the look of the compressor on the outside on the tongue or bumper for that matter. I know it says there are vents on both sides , but how much clearance around them are required?

goshawk,

I have considered that option too. In my case, if I remove the heater/furnace, under the sink, there would be space to make a recessed cabinet. I know others have used similar configurations in Casita trailer, mounting window air conditioners. The trick, as I recall is to provide a separate, outside source for your incoming air and and exhaust port for the "hot air"(I am not an expert...this is merely a recollection of what others have done on Casitas)

With that in mind you would need exhaust opening, similar to the refrigerator opening and a source or vent for incoming air, perhaps through the floor. Finally you would need to enclose the compressor in a way that would separate source air from exhaust air.

Again...no expert....just some pondering.

Greg

[goshawks00]

Yes ....the devil is in the details! Having never even seen this type of compressor system I am not sure where the intake and exhaust for that matter is at. It would be fairly easy to modify with a bit of planning though.
Barry

[VeggieBullet]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Bummer. I was hoping there could be some sort of quick connect/disconnect fittings for that kind of installation. Some friends of ours have one installed in their basement office at their home and it is SO quiet and effective...I love the idea of replacing the rooftop unit with something like this but would assume (again) that permanently attaching the compressor anywhere on the trailer would transfer some sound while operating.

There is options out there with a quick connect, as a matter of fact is a very common practice in the Trucking HAVC world. Dometic has some cool systems that we are considering, a 15K BTU can run in a 15A plug or form a 2K Gen
take a look
Choices - Dometic
Hope this helps