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Old 12-10-2010, 09:44 PM   #41
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GGAL lets wait and see what he finds tomorrow. LC30 120 VAC/12VDC load center. This should be both the 110VAC circuit breaker and 12VDC fuses in one panel so you don`t need to keep looking for the original one. Maybe you shouls start your own thread so we don`t keep hijacking this one.
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:56 AM   #42
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1969 31' Sovereign
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And we have central heat! My husbands uncle came and looked at it this morning. It seems that the igniting rods or whatever you call them were corroded enough that it prevented a good spark. I've been afraid to take anything apart, but he cleaned them up, and voila! heat! We are lucky it was that easy, if only we called him earlier.
Now its time to get a bigger propane tank.


Betsy
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:52 PM   #43
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1967 22' Safari
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Originally Posted by bootsie c View Post
And we have central heat! My husbands uncle came and looked at it this morning. It seems that the igniting rods or whatever you call them were corroded enough that it prevented a good spark. I've been afraid to take anything apart, but he cleaned them up, and voila! heat! We are lucky it was that easy, if only we called him earlier.
Now its time to get a bigger propane tank.


Betsy
Yeah! Betsy I'm glad you solved your problem! Igniting rods you say. I will keep that in the memory banks as I try to resolve my issues. Sorry to interrupt your thread...at first I thought it might actually help if more information surfaced regarding the heaters. Keep warm.
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Old 12-11-2010, 04:38 PM   #44
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GGAL how did you make out today. Is your converter now charging the battery and supplying 12VDC to the trailer. Does your furnace now work. was there any damage to plumbing from the winterizing.
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Old 12-11-2010, 05:11 PM   #45
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It's commonly called a "electrode" and I'm sorry I did not think of it, knowing I've replaced a few!
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:14 AM   #46
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December 7, 2010

December, 2009, I installed a new suburban nt-30sp furnace in my 1987 Airstream Excella 1000 travel trailer. It worked fine until it quit when I ran out of gas while it was operating. After refilling the propane bottles, the furnace would not come on – that is, I could hear the thermostat “click” but the furnace did nothing – no fan, nothing.


I had a repair facility look at it and they said that my pressure regulator was faulty and not providing enough pressure, even though the other appliances worked fine (stove, oven, refrigerator, hot water heater). But the new pressure regulator seemed to fix the problem as the furnace once again worked fine – until now. I have once again run out of propane and, after filling both tanks, the furnace will not come on just as previously stated. No fan, nothing!


Is there some procedure to reset a safety feature when this happens? I don’t have a gage to check the actual pressure but once again, all other appliances are working fine.
Two years later and the problem is intermittent. Sometimes I go weeks where it works fine and then one morning the fan starts but I don't hear that "click" after 15 - 20 seconds that I now think is the sail switch working. This morning that happened again so I got out my rubber mallet and smacked the edge of the furnace case several times, then tried the furnace again and it came on! It subsequently went through several cycles just fine. I'm pretty sure that a sticky sail switch is the problem. I'm trying to fine a picture or diagram of the nt-30sp showing the location of the sail switch but no luck - anyone have one?

I've also replaced the analog thermostat with a Hunter 42995 ($20.00 from Walmart) and it works great!
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:42 AM   #47
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Two years later and the problem is intermittent. Sometimes I go weeks where it works fine and then one morning the fan starts but I don't hear that "click" after 15 - 20 seconds that I now think is the sail switch working. This morning that happened again so I got out my rubber mallet and smacked the edge of the furnace case several times, then tried the furnace again and it came on! It subsequently went through several cycles just fine. I'm pretty sure that a sticky sail switch is the problem. I'm trying to fine a picture or diagram of the nt-30sp showing the location of the sail switch but no luck - anyone have one?

I've also replaced the analog thermostat with a Hunter 42995 ($20.00 from Walmart) and it works great!
Once the furnace is removed frame the case, the location of the sail switch, which is a "microswtich", is obvious, since it will be in plain sight.

Andy
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