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Old 12-08-2010, 05:18 PM   #15
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The fan for sure. But not the gas valve clunk and ignitor clicks. Especially if the clunk is supposed to be fairly audible then I don't think its happening.
The handle on the propane pipe supplying the furnace is set to what I believe to be open which is in line with the pipe, is this correct? I assumed it was the same as water lines where if the switch was in line-it's on and if the switch is perpendicular to the line-its off. -Just to make sure I'm supplying it in the first place.
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Old 12-08-2010, 05:55 PM   #16
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Well It sounds like the same problem with the circuit board. If you can get access try cleaning the electrical connections and see what happens. You can have the circuit board tested but that would require a service man to come there or remove the furnace and take it in to tested and serviced.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:07 PM   #17
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The gas valve sounds like it is in the correct position. The circuit board logic opens the gas valve and then fires the igniter. Since the gas valve doesn't seem to open it points to a circuit board. If you have the knowledge check to see if the gas solenoid gets a pulse. An analog meter comes in handy here. You can see the needle deflect when the pulse happens. Better yet, hire a furnace fixer to check it out. You can be in dangerous territory when dealing with propane! It isn't always too forgiving!
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:11 PM   #18
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Sorry wasagachris! Didn't mean to step on your toes. We must have been typing at the same time.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:13 AM   #19
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Thank you for replying. Everything in there looks amazingly clean to me, but unfortunately I don't have the knowledge to check the solenoid. I'll be calling a technician to look at it more than likely. It'll probably be for the best since both my husband and I are leary messing with it too too much due to the whole explosion factor.

Thanks again!

Betsy
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:45 AM   #20
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my husband and I are leary
Umm, the spelling needs some tweaking, I'm LEARY, you're LEERY!
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:38 PM   #21
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Suburban NT-30SP Furnace not lighting

Thought I would share my recent experience with a Suburban NT-30SP furnace when it quit heating, the blower and thermostat were working fine, just no heat. It is an older model, maybe 15 years. It worked fine for about 3 months after I purchased the trailer, then one night when I was running on batteries, it was working and then quit throwing out heat. Normally, which had happened before, this would mean the batteries’ voltage had dropped down to around 11 volts thus causing the fan to slow down and the micro switch (sail switch) to open and thus shutting down gas flow to the burner. I checked my battery level and it was still around 13 volts so that was not the problem. I went through the restart sequences several times to no avail. The next day, I towed the trailer to a campground with hookups (God bless electric heat). I tried the furnace again and it worked fine for the first cycle. The second time it came on, no heat. I went online, read a bunch of stuff, even called Suburban’s tech line (they are only supposed to talk to technicians, not trailer owners) and he said it was most likely the limit switch and told me how to check to see if power was getting through the limit switch. He also said to check the micro switch which requires removing the vent cover on the outside of the trailer, simple to do, five screws. After removing the vent cover, low and behold there was the micro switch in plain sight. I turned on the furnace, when the blower came on the switch closed so that was working. I took a can of compressed air (like for computers), put the plastic tube in the nozzle and squirted air all around the micro switch to make sure nothing would cause it not to “sail” as well as it should. I then removed the limit switch, it is a small rectangular stainless steel plate with a little window in it, secured with two screws on the tall skinny box to the right of the burner. It has two wires plugged onto tabs in the back of the switch. I was checking to make sure voltage was going through it and while doing that, the furnace lit up. I put it all back together, the furnace worked for the first cycle, then would not light again. I did a restart sequence and tapped the limit switch with the butt of a screwdriver fairly hard and the furnace lit up again. Apparently, something inside the switch was sticking open and towing the trailer or removing the limit switch and reinstalling it or smacking it several times were all enough to close the switch allowing the furnace to light. I went through a local RV store, paid about $16.50 for a new limit switch, installed it and the furnace has been working fine since. I never did pull the furnace out, changing the limit switch is something that can be done from the front of the furnace, takes about 15 minutes. It is a tight fit in its hole and removing it requires rotating it to the left about 20 degrees before pulling it out. A needle nose pliers helps to hold the wires when pushing their connectors onto the switch’s tabs. Bending the tabs on the back of the switch inward slightly also helps the wire connectors clear the opening a little better when reinstalling the switch. Happy trails.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:25 PM   #22
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I am having the same problem! Cool air is blowing out of my heater. My fan is coming on but I'm not hearing anything after that- though I will reassess as soon as my daughter is in bed.

I first thought I was out of propane, because I had to have the heat on today (I realized that I didn't do a proper winterizing after reading many threads) and until I can get someone here to help explain all of the valves, etc. I am battling the cold. It was working fine today and the trailer was nice and toasty- I went out after a few hours and it was blowing cool air.

So, I switched the propane tanks, and reattached both, thinking it might leak otherwise. I followed the instructions turning it on and off and waiting 30 seconds, etc. It won't relight. I saw an on/off switch and took a chance and flipped the switch following the shut off procedures. Nothing.

However the battery ran down while the heat was on today. I guess I never really put it together, fan = battery power, not so bright on my part . If the battery is low (now plugged in and charging) will the heater stop blowing heat and cease to ignite?

I just got this AS in October and I've never had any type of RV. This was not the time of year for me to start I'm afraid! I'm very handy and not afraid to work on mechanical things, normally, but this is all pretty daunting to me......quite a learning curve.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Sorry to butt in on your post Bootsie c.

Thanks everyone for all of the helpful information you take the time to provide!
Sonya
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:28 PM   #23
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I am having the same problem! Cool air is blowing out of my heater. My fan is coming on but I'm not hearing anything after that- though I will reassess as soon as my daughter is in bed.

I first thought I was out of propane, because I had to have the heat on today (I realized that I didn't do a proper winterizing after reading many threads) and until I can get someone here to help explain all of the valves, etc. I am battling the cold. It was working fine today and the trailer was nice and toasty- I went out after a few hours and it was blowing cool air.

So, I switched the propane tanks, and reattached both, thinking it might leak otherwise. I followed the instructions turning it on and off and waiting 30 seconds, etc. It won't relight. I saw an on/off switch and took a chance and flipped the switch following the shut off procedures. Nothing.

However the battery ran down while the heat was on today. I guess I never really put it together, fan = battery power, not so bright on my part . If the battery is low (now plugged in and charging) will the heater stop blowing heat and cease to ignite?

I just got this AS in October and I've never had any type of RV. This was not the time of year for me to start I'm afraid! I'm very handy and not afraid to work on mechanical things, normally, but this is all pretty daunting to me......quite a learning curve.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Sorry to butt in on your post Bootsie c.

Thanks everyone for all of the helpful information you take the time to provide!
Sonya
Sonya yes you need the battery to operate the circuit board on the furnace. Can you plug in the trailer to shore power and the converter will provide enough 12VDC to run the furnace.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:40 PM   #24
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Sonya yes you need the battery to operate the circuit board on the furnace. Can you plug in the trailer to shore power and the converter will provide enough 12VDC to run the furnace.
I have it plugged in with a pigtail from to the back panel. Is that what you mean? After plugging it in I tried again, but nothing; however, the lights were still dim too. So I figured I'd give it some time to infuse some life into the battery, and try again.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:43 PM   #25
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GGAL if you plugged in the pigtail as you call it you should have full 12VDC from the converter. Can you check to make sure you actually have 110 VAC in the trailer from the pigtail. Check an outlet and make sure you have power. Then check the circuit breakers to make sure they are turned on. If you have 110 VAC and the breakers are on then either your converter probably the original Univolt is not working or not receiving 110 VAC. Can you hera it humming when plugged in?
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:47 PM   #26
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Ok, I don't know what I just did. Tried to delete a double post and erased everything? Anyway, wasagachris I have plugged in with a pigtail to the large plug in the back panel. Is that what you mean?

I tried to light it again after I plugged it in, but it still didn't work. At the time, the lights were still dim too. So I figured I'd give it some time to recharge. Is it strange that the lights didn't get brighter all at once once plugged in? Is there a switch I need to make to use that power that I'm forgetting about?
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:53 PM   #27
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GGAL yes that is what I meant and the lights should be bright once plugged in. Check the circuit breaker panel to make sure they are all on and check an outlet to make sure you have 110VAC shore power. Can you hear the converter humming.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:55 PM   #28
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GGAL if you plugged in the pigtail as you call it you should have full 12VDC from the converter. Can you check to make sure you actually have 110 VAC in the trailer from the pigtail. Check an outlet and make sure you have power. Then check the circuit breakers to make sure they are turned on. If you have 110 VAC and the breakers are on then either your converter probably the original Univolt is not working or not receiving 110 VAC. Can you hera it humming when plugged in?
I don't think I hear humming? I'll go out and check.....will check the outlet too. I know that the power/extension cord is getting electricity because it is lit up and the circuit breakers are fine at the power source. I'm going to check out the other things now. I assume that the breakers are on the converter. I think it's relatively new...but I'm not sure. I'll be back!
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