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Old 12-10-2010, 11:38 AM   #21
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1978 28' Ambassador
Greenwood Village , Colorado
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Suburban NT-30SP Furnace not lighting

Thought I would share my recent experience with a Suburban NT-30SP furnace when it quit heating, the blower and thermostat were working fine, just no heat. It is an older model, maybe 15 years. It worked fine for about 3 months after I purchased the trailer, then one night when I was running on batteries, it was working and then quit throwing out heat. Normally, which had happened before, this would mean the batteries’ voltage had dropped down to around 11 volts thus causing the fan to slow down and the micro switch (sail switch) to open and thus shutting down gas flow to the burner. I checked my battery level and it was still around 13 volts so that was not the problem. I went through the restart sequences several times to no avail. The next day, I towed the trailer to a campground with hookups (God bless electric heat). I tried the furnace again and it worked fine for the first cycle. The second time it came on, no heat. I went online, read a bunch of stuff, even called Suburban’s tech line (they are only supposed to talk to technicians, not trailer owners) and he said it was most likely the limit switch and told me how to check to see if power was getting through the limit switch. He also said to check the micro switch which requires removing the vent cover on the outside of the trailer, simple to do, five screws. After removing the vent cover, low and behold there was the micro switch in plain sight. I turned on the furnace, when the blower came on the switch closed so that was working. I took a can of compressed air (like for computers), put the plastic tube in the nozzle and squirted air all around the micro switch to make sure nothing would cause it not to “sail” as well as it should. I then removed the limit switch, it is a small rectangular stainless steel plate with a little window in it, secured with two screws on the tall skinny box to the right of the burner. It has two wires plugged onto tabs in the back of the switch. I was checking to make sure voltage was going through it and while doing that, the furnace lit up. I put it all back together, the furnace worked for the first cycle, then would not light again. I did a restart sequence and tapped the limit switch with the butt of a screwdriver fairly hard and the furnace lit up again. Apparently, something inside the switch was sticking open and towing the trailer or removing the limit switch and reinstalling it or smacking it several times were all enough to close the switch allowing the furnace to light. I went through a local RV store, paid about $16.50 for a new limit switch, installed it and the furnace has been working fine since. I never did pull the furnace out, changing the limit switch is something that can be done from the front of the furnace, takes about 15 minutes. It is a tight fit in its hole and removing it requires rotating it to the left about 20 degrees before pulling it out. A needle nose pliers helps to hold the wires when pushing their connectors onto the switch’s tabs. Bending the tabs on the back of the switch inward slightly also helps the wire connectors clear the opening a little better when reinstalling the switch. Happy trails.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:25 PM   #22
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North Dartmouth , Massachusetts
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I am having the same problem! Cool air is blowing out of my heater. My fan is coming on but I'm not hearing anything after that- though I will reassess as soon as my daughter is in bed.

I first thought I was out of propane, because I had to have the heat on today (I realized that I didn't do a proper winterizing after reading many threads) and until I can get someone here to help explain all of the valves, etc. I am battling the cold. It was working fine today and the trailer was nice and toasty- I went out after a few hours and it was blowing cool air.

So, I switched the propane tanks, and reattached both, thinking it might leak otherwise. I followed the instructions turning it on and off and waiting 30 seconds, etc. It won't relight. I saw an on/off switch and took a chance and flipped the switch following the shut off procedures. Nothing.

However the battery ran down while the heat was on today. I guess I never really put it together, fan = battery power, not so bright on my part . If the battery is low (now plugged in and charging) will the heater stop blowing heat and cease to ignite?

I just got this AS in October and I've never had any type of RV. This was not the time of year for me to start I'm afraid! I'm very handy and not afraid to work on mechanical things, normally, but this is all pretty daunting to me......quite a learning curve.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Sorry to butt in on your post Bootsie c.

Thanks everyone for all of the helpful information you take the time to provide!
Sonya
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:28 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by GGAL View Post
I am having the same problem! Cool air is blowing out of my heater. My fan is coming on but I'm not hearing anything after that- though I will reassess as soon as my daughter is in bed.

I first thought I was out of propane, because I had to have the heat on today (I realized that I didn't do a proper winterizing after reading many threads) and until I can get someone here to help explain all of the valves, etc. I am battling the cold. It was working fine today and the trailer was nice and toasty- I went out after a few hours and it was blowing cool air.

So, I switched the propane tanks, and reattached both, thinking it might leak otherwise. I followed the instructions turning it on and off and waiting 30 seconds, etc. It won't relight. I saw an on/off switch and took a chance and flipped the switch following the shut off procedures. Nothing.

However the battery ran down while the heat was on today. I guess I never really put it together, fan = battery power, not so bright on my part . If the battery is low (now plugged in and charging) will the heater stop blowing heat and cease to ignite?

I just got this AS in October and I've never had any type of RV. This was not the time of year for me to start I'm afraid! I'm very handy and not afraid to work on mechanical things, normally, but this is all pretty daunting to me......quite a learning curve.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Sorry to butt in on your post Bootsie c.

Thanks everyone for all of the helpful information you take the time to provide!
Sonya
Sonya yes you need the battery to operate the circuit board on the furnace. Can you plug in the trailer to shore power and the converter will provide enough 12VDC to run the furnace.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:40 PM   #24
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Sonya yes you need the battery to operate the circuit board on the furnace. Can you plug in the trailer to shore power and the converter will provide enough 12VDC to run the furnace.
I have it plugged in with a pigtail from to the back panel. Is that what you mean? After plugging it in I tried again, but nothing; however, the lights were still dim too. So I figured I'd give it some time to infuse some life into the battery, and try again.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:43 PM   #25
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GGAL if you plugged in the pigtail as you call it you should have full 12VDC from the converter. Can you check to make sure you actually have 110 VAC in the trailer from the pigtail. Check an outlet and make sure you have power. Then check the circuit breakers to make sure they are turned on. If you have 110 VAC and the breakers are on then either your converter probably the original Univolt is not working or not receiving 110 VAC. Can you hera it humming when plugged in?
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:47 PM   #26
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Ok, I don't know what I just did. Tried to delete a double post and erased everything? Anyway, wasagachris I have plugged in with a pigtail to the large plug in the back panel. Is that what you mean?

I tried to light it again after I plugged it in, but it still didn't work. At the time, the lights were still dim too. So I figured I'd give it some time to recharge. Is it strange that the lights didn't get brighter all at once once plugged in? Is there a switch I need to make to use that power that I'm forgetting about?
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:53 PM   #27
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GGAL yes that is what I meant and the lights should be bright once plugged in. Check the circuit breaker panel to make sure they are all on and check an outlet to make sure you have 110VAC shore power. Can you hear the converter humming.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:55 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
GGAL if you plugged in the pigtail as you call it you should have full 12VDC from the converter. Can you check to make sure you actually have 110 VAC in the trailer from the pigtail. Check an outlet and make sure you have power. Then check the circuit breakers to make sure they are turned on. If you have 110 VAC and the breakers are on then either your converter probably the original Univolt is not working or not receiving 110 VAC. Can you hera it humming when plugged in?
I don't think I hear humming? I'll go out and check.....will check the outlet too. I know that the power/extension cord is getting electricity because it is lit up and the circuit breakers are fine at the power source. I'm going to check out the other things now. I assume that the breakers are on the converter. I think it's relatively new...but I'm not sure. I'll be back!
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:03 PM   #29
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GGAL the circuit breakers for the 110VAC shore power in the trailer will be in their own panel box. They will be located relatively close to where the shore power cord enters the trailer usually in a closet or under a bed.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:31 PM   #30
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I don't think I hear humming? I'll go out and check.....will check the outlet too. I know that the power/extension cord is getting electricity because it is lit up and the circuit breakers are fine at the power source. I'm going to check out the other things now. I assume that the breakers are on the converter. I think it's relatively new...but I'm not sure. I'll be back!
ok, so no humming plugged in. Hair dryer works in all 3 outlets I tested. Flipped all breakers checked fuses, and they seem to be ok. fuse box is LC30 120 VAC/12VDC load center. Converter is DLS-55 IOTA. Lights a little brighter for a few minutes (will this save my battery or do I need to take out and charge on battery charger this evening?).

Does this mean I need a new converter?
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:33 PM   #31
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GGAL the circuit breakers for the 110VAC shore power in the trailer will be in their own panel box. They will be located relatively close to where the shore power cord enters the trailer usually in a closet or under a bed.
Seems to be under the goucho, mid front, behind fridge....is there another?
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:35 PM   #32
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Jeez, I sure would hope not! Talk about inconvenient!

Look around in the back in the lockers above the beds, or under the beds, or down in the dark part of the closets.

AS always likes to hide those things...
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:42 PM   #33
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Jeez, I sure would hope not! Talk about inconvenient!

Look around in the back in the lockers above the beds, or under the beds, or down in the dark part of the closets.

AS always likes to hide those things...
I did find the converter under the bed, and the fuse box is mounted in the first storage cupboard under same bed. I can see the converter by removing the cushion on the gaucho. There is an access panel from outside the trailer, but I didn't open it because I figured it wouldn't be very helpful, since I don't know the first thing about converters! Ahhh, my dream AS! I better get more informed real quick I guess. This forum is super helpful to a newbie like me.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:43 PM   #34
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I did find the converter under the bed, and the fuse box is mounted in the first storage cupboard under same bed. I can see the converter by removing the cushion on the gaucho. There is an access panel from outside the trailer, but I didn't open it because I figured it wouldn't be very helpful, since I don't know the first thing about converters! Ahhh, my dream AS! I better get more informed real quick I guess. This forum is super helpful to a newbie like me.
Would there be more than one?
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:46 PM   #35
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GGAL the fuse panel you found is for the 12VDC I think. I just found this pic of a 69 110VAC circuit breaker panel. Does it look like the one you found. It seems to be in a closet in the bathroom.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:49 PM   #36
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GGAL the circuit breakers for the 110VAC shore power in the trailer will be in their own panel box. They will be located relatively close to where the shore power cord enters the trailer usually in a closet or under a bed.
Ok, I'll have to look again!
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:52 PM   #37
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GGAL the fuse panel you found is for the 12VDC I think. I just found this pic of a 69 110VAC circuit breaker panel. Does it look like the one you found. It seems to be in a closet in the bathroom.
Does not look like that. Not as industrial looking. It was an LC 30 120 VAC/12VDC which is what you suspected. I will look again! Thank you. I'll look everywhere.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:22 PM   #38
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Does not look like that. Not as industrial looking. It was an LC 30 120 VAC/12VDC which is what you suspected. I will look again! Thank you. I'll look everywhere.
I looked in every hatch (inside and out), cupboard, closet under couches, behind toilet, EVERYWHERE I could think of. and I can't see this 110V box anywhere. Is there a chance that the person who rewired it (who?) didn't put one in? I see a lot of junction boxes (say two or three) in every hatch. Any other ideas?
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:37 PM   #39
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OK GGAL I now realize that your trailer has been rewired and the converter replaced. You will not hear humming from the original Univolt. I wouldn`t condemn the converter yet. You have to make sure it is receiving 110VAC first. We know the trailer is getting 110 VAC shore power(hair dryer works in all outlets). To test input to the converter you will need a multimeter and some knowledge of electrical wiring. This can be dangerous checking live wires so maybe get some local help to do this. The converter must be check for input of 110VAC and output of 12VDC. If you have both input and output then the converter is fine and check wiring to make sure the converter is connected to the battery.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:02 PM   #40
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OK GGAL I now realize that your trailer has been rewired and the converter replaced. You will not hear humming from the original Univolt. I wouldn`t condemn the converter yet. You have to make sure it is receiving 110VAC first. We know the trailer is getting 110 VAC shore power(hair dryer works in all outlets). To test input to the converter you will need a multimeter and some knowledge of electrical wiring. This can be dangerous checking live wires so maybe get some local help to do this. The converter must be check for input of 110VAC and output of 12VDC. If you have both input and output then the converter is fine and check wiring to make sure the converter is connected to the battery.
Great, thank you again! I have someone coming by to check it out tomorrow and see if the poor winterizing job did any damage.....hopefully not. That's how this all started....last I spoke with him he said plug it in, change the propane tank and he'd call me tomorrow.

I thought that would solve the problem...so that's what I did. It's a snowball! At least I don't have to sound like a complete dolt when he comes tomorrow. I'll ask him to check the converter then. The only time I do any electrical work is when I can cut the power completely and I know what I'm doing! I don't mess around with stuff like that.

Should I still look for the 110VAC fuse box? I looked at the fuses on the back of the converter and they seemed in tact.

I'll send a message out here when I get some feedback from the RV guy (I haven't met him yet). Thanks a bunch again! My Best
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