Suburban Furnace removal - Page 2

ALANSD · 01-16-2005, 02:55 PM

The MH is an 82 the model on the furnace says NT30M. I checked PPl Parts they have it listed, and the burner log # 10609 is used for all the NT models.

I pulled the log out, sucked a ton of rust and sooty particles out of the chambers, cleaned all. I also cleaned all the electric contacts. But the log itself had some of the openings rusted together. I was able to clean and open up most, but two of them now are bigger than they were as the divider in the middle rusted off. Will this log be useable again? Or are these holes too big, and it would need to be replaced?

The thing with the furnace is it only gets used once or twice a year at most as I have a roof a/c heat strip that is pretty effective..and live in GA which rarley gets really cold for long. Thanks again.

ALANSD · 01-16-2005, 02:57 PM

also what does the long screw on the log ( see top of log in photo) do?

**john hd** · 01-16-2005, 03:37 PM

that long screw should be the air shutter control

john

ALANSD · 01-16-2005, 05:38 PM

It seemed to far in to be the adjustment screw....any ideas on the log? Is it usable, or do I need a new one?

74Argosy24MH · 01-16-2005, 06:59 PM

Get a new one. You are going to get 2 (maybe 1) big flames and nothing out of the rest. If it is falling apart that bad it won't take much heat to destroy it anyway.

John

ALANSD · 02-03-2005, 08:33 AM

PPl sent me the new burner, a stainless steel model, the wrong one for my NT30 M furnace.
They are not sure the cast iron one is made anymore, looking into that. Mine is solid other than those few slits that broke, so I looking into cleaning it up, getting the slits welded shut and using it. Now that I have the furnace nice and clean, and the fan motor clean and lubed, I would like to try and use the thing as it is.

loudruff · 02-03-2005, 11:40 AM

Of course as with all of the advice that is given on the forum pages, any use of said advice is at your own liability. That said, you may get away with finding someone with welding experience on iron. Such as exhaust headers. Welding cast iron can be a delicate process, but is do-able, as long as the part is allowed to cool slowly. If you are trying this yourself I have been successful by heating parts in the gas cooking grill, removing and welding that part and then returning it to the grill with the lid on so that it cools slowly.
After welding I would bench test it again to be sure that you are satisfied with the performance before you reinstall it. If you don't want to take the welding route, there a bunch of salvage yards because this furnace was used in many SOBs. I shouldn't be hard to find.
BTW, my furnace manual calls that rod or screw the main burner air adjustment rod.
Good luck!
Larry

ALANSD · 02-03-2005, 12:25 PM

thanks- I am no welder, so i did not know that cast iron was so tough to weld on. I hope to find another burner.

loudruff · 02-03-2005, 12:31 PM

You need special welding rod for doing the job on cast iron.
You can search the web for RV salvage yards. There are lots in Indiana.

ALANSD · 02-04-2005, 10:53 AM

after speaking with a few surplus dealers, it seems I can use my old log if I fill up the few slots with metal ( washers and jb weld was recommended) since the log has so many usable slots it should be ok according to them. Unless I find one I will try this. If I blow myself up my wife will be selling the 280

ALANSD · 02-06-2005, 03:21 PM

I reinstalled the furnace today, which was a chore. Getting it into the case was tough enough, but squeezing it back into the space under my kitchen cabinet was a big challenge. Took awhile to get it all the way in there and line it up with the outside vents. Once I did all that and reconnected evertything it fired right up, burned almost a perfect blue flame and put out plenty of heat.
Now a question--- when I checked for leaks there is a very small leak where the brass elbow joint goes into the furnace. If I tighten it one more turn I can't get the outside gas line onto the elbow, as its too close to the cabinet. I figure I can buy a slightly longer elbow, so it will extend out a bit more and solve that problem, but the question is do you use teflon tape on these threads? I use it for plumbing of course, but not sure if its correct for the gas lines. Thanks for all the support, I am happy to report the job 95% done.

loudruff · 02-06-2005, 05:17 PM

I teflon all threaded gas connections except flare and compression ring type connections. Especially dissimilar metals (iron/brass). It may be possible by placing a screwdriver between the furnace case and the elbow to gain a little clearance by bowing or bending the case slightly.

ALANSD · 02-07-2005, 07:55 AM

I tried the case bending..I think if I get a new fitting with a bit more length it will be easier to thread. I will try using the tape ..carefully.

thenewkid64 · 02-07-2005, 08:46 AM

Alan,

There is a special yellow Teflon tape for gas fittings, It is thicker than the normal white stuff. I have found it in the section where connection lines for gas appliances are.