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NewStreamer · 12-18-2002, 11:57 PM

I just read in an old (92) AS Caravanner magazine a recall for all Furnaces made from 66 to 77.
Campaign : 77E-012 initiated summer of 77
Campaign : 81E-015 initiated winter 81-82
The furnaces were models NT-17, NT-20, NT-22 and NT-30 manufactured between 66 & 70 The serial numbers were 0064881 and lower.
Also Furnaces made between 1970 & 1977 except those with an "M" suffix, The serial numbers are: 0064881 through 0715865
The recall specifies:" if the model and serial number of yr furnace falls within those noted, have it inspected unless you are VERY SURE the Suburban recall has already been completed on your unit"
The furnaces in question have a rubber-like crossover tube that could crack . Extremely dangerous carbon monoxide would then be expelled into the interior

Ron

3Ms75Argosy · 12-19-2002, 06:52 PM

Anyone know where the serial numbers are on the furnace? I'll check mine out soon. If my furnace is affected, does anyone know if Suburban would still honor the recall? Do they have a website?
Marc

Dave-O · 12-19-2002, 08:19 PM

It is my understanding that Suburban is no longer stocking the repair kit and no longer support the recall of these furnaces. If your furnace has not had the fix and you are concerned about safety, it's recommended that you replace the furnace.
Having said that, I just checked out my furnace on my 72 and it seems to be running fine. I have a CO detector and it t reported no problems and I didn't either. I would like to know where to find the serial number as well to see if this furnace is original, which I suspect it is.
How can one tell if the furnace has had the fix?

paul k · 12-20-2002, 09:20 AM

I have an NT22 in my 76 safari serial # 0494538 It seems to work fine is there any way to tell if it has had the repair done to it.
I also have a NT30M serial#0769456 that I am keeping for a spare (just in case) I got it out of a motorhome that a friend was gutting . I am assuming that because it has a M (MT30M)
that it is not a recalled furnace. anyone had any experience going from a NT22 to a NT33 will it be too big or too much it looks like it will fit in the space as it is accually smaller in size than the NT22

thanks for any info
paulk

NewStreamer · 12-21-2002, 02:10 AM

I'm glad I discarded mine

Ron

thenewkid64 · 12-21-2002, 06:28 AM

As I understand it the only way to see if your furnace has had the recall preformed is to pull the outer vents. The connection tubes from the outer vents to the furnace were mabe of rubber tubing and the cracking of these was what caused the recall.

Depending on how long your furnace has been installed you may find that getting the outer cover off is alot of work. If there is any way to visually inspect the connections I say do it.

As to putting a NT33 in you are asking for problems. The number on the furnace is the btu output a NT22 puts out 22000 btu's, an NT33 would put out 33000. This is one case where bigger is not necessarly better. By increasing the heat output by a factor of 50% your furnace will not run as long to attain temp. While that seems like a good thing it also means that it will cycle on and of very often. This could also lead to a freezing problem in the holding tanks because it does not run long enought to heat the contents, not to mention the furniture and you. Secondly the whole system is based on air volume, your ductwork will restrict airflow and could cause it to run at a hight temperature than it was designed for. Or because of duct sizes it may not want to work at all.

If you replace your current furnace I suggest that you stay with the size that was engineered into the coach.

Just my $.02 worth

74Argosy24MH · 12-21-2002, 10:41 AM

A second to what newkid64 said, if you use a larger size you probably will need to install more ducts to get enough airflow to close the sail switch. That can be a pain in the tight areas these are installed in.

John

paul k · 12-21-2002, 04:35 PM

Thanks guys for your input
the spare furnace that i have is an NT30M not a NT33M sorry for the misinformation however i am sure that your info still applies my buddy told me i could have any parts that i wanted so i took the furnace (he told me that the blower assembly was brand new)
and from what i can see it is. i also took the a c unit and a new roof top storage pod i never pass up a good freeby the wife hates me for that at least untill she has her anual garage sale when all my so called junk sells before hers lol !!! I guess i will keep the furnace around for parts hopefully i wont need them.wouldent want to have to swap it out anyways as you stated they do squeeze them into some tight corners. Unfortunatly the storage pod just doesnt work on an AS so its garage sale bound i am sure someone with SOB box unit will want it as for the ac unit im not sure if i want to cut a hole in the roof (it is wired for one) so who knows what i will do with it .
well thanks again for the info sorry for babling on .
wishing everyone happy hollidays

Paul

barbwire · 12-22-2002, 07:14 AM

I have an NT-16 from 1977 that I took apart to get the motor out so that the commutator on the motor could be repaired along with installing new brushes (most auto electric shops will do this for about $30). The rubber tube on my furnace was cracked too. It connects the fresh air intake just below the air intake fan to the combustion chamber. I replaced it with radiator hose. I justified this by inspecting the contact points of the hose, and could see they did not get that hot with the fresh air moving through them. Also I believe that the modern hose is better than that old rubber. I am using the furnace this winter while making other repairs, and always use a CO detector.

Jim

NewStreamer · 12-23-2002, 01:42 AM

I hope everybody checked their furnace

barbwire · 12-24-2002, 01:09 AM

Cracks in the reefer vent produced more CO than any other appliance. Check near the top, I had to tear some stuff apart to get to the bad spots. I'm not talking about leathal amounts, just what registers on my Blackhawk.

Chas · 01-08-2003, 03:31 PM

I have said it before and will say it again. Another good reason to add a 12v hardwired carbon monoxide detector and while you're at it put in a LP detector. They even have LP detectors that will shut down your propane supply if aleak is detected. You can even go the cheap route and do a battery powered monoxide unit from the hardware store. You should already have a smoke detector.

Why sit around and worry about it, just do it!

Chas

thenewkid64 · 01-08-2003, 04:33 PM

The rubber tube issue is for a range of models. The fact that you cannot see the tubes may not mean it has been repaired, it may mean that he furnace you have was not subject to the recall.

qqq · 11-12-2003, 11:40 PM

Good season to revive this post

Hart

drboyd · 11-13-2003, 12:24 PM

They make a special type of hose that's used for marine engine exhaust. Seems like that ought to be suitable for furnace connections as well. You could probably check for matching size at West Marine or similar boat store.....

garry · 11-13-2003, 03:33 PM

FYI The following is from a 1973 A/S service manual

NT 16 used in 21 ft
NT 22 used in 23 / 25 ft
NT 32 used in 31 ft

All show the rubber cross over tube was used.

When in doubt check it out......

Garry

Rickj · 01-02-2004, 07:10 AM

I use one that plugs into a wall outlet at home so now I will get one for the trailer as well. I have not used the furnace for the last years but have been cosidering using it this year. Have to hook it up and figure out sail switch problem. (I think it is just a full batttery problem) thats another story.

Safari Tim · 01-02-2004, 12:34 PM

To see the rubber crossover hose discussed in the recall you have to REMOVE the furnace.

To remove the furnace you start outside and remove the exhaust covers with 4 screws. Behind that are two screws that hold the furnace exhast pipes to the wall. Remove those.

Inside you will have to remove the wiring, disconnect the gas line after shutting off the tanks, and remove the furnace cover with the two snap locks. Behind the cover is a screw in the bottom right that holds the furnace innards in place. Remove that screw.

Now the furnace will side out of its housing.

The hose is on the back side between the motor housing and the combustion chamber.

I replaced mine with a high temp heater hose from Napa Auto supply. It's a very tight fit and a little tough to replace.

Another thing about CO detectors. On the package for mounting instructions it says to keep the detector 12 inches from any window, door, stove, exahust, vent, or heater outlet.

This is very difficult in a 23' trailer. So I ended up mounting my on the panel right next to the entrance door. It's less than 8" from the door opening. Any idea how much this will reduce it's effectiveness?

Dbraw · 01-02-2004, 01:57 PM

Tim,
On our '71 23' Safari, I mounted the CO detector at the top of the left door in front of the bath. That's about as far away from the stove and other items that I could.
Dan

CanoeStream · 01-02-2004, 02:28 PM

Some of the folks contributing to this thread also participated in a November thread, Furnace safety. There are excellent points in each, so try reading them both.

My list for similar safety interest also has the following:
Furnace on when towing??
LP Gas/Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Airstreamforums again prove a valuable service not available elsewhere! This is important for both vintage and new Airstream owners. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU to ANDY and all the MODERATORS!! (SCREAMING almost seems polite in this instance, dontcha think?)