They make a special type of hose that's used for marine engine exhaust. Seems like that ought to be suitable for furnace connections as well. You could probably check for matching size at West Marine or similar boat store.....
__________________ "Between what matters and what seems to matter, how should the world we know judge wisely?" E.C. Bentley, Trent's Last Case
I use one that plugs into a wall outlet at home so now I will get one for the trailer as well. I have not used the furnace for the last years but have been cosidering using it this year. Have to hook it up and figure out sail switch problem. (I think it is just a full batttery problem) thats another story.
To see the rubber crossover hose discussed in the recall you have to REMOVE the furnace.
To remove the furnace you start outside and remove the exhaust covers with 4 screws. Behind that are two screws that hold the furnace exhast pipes to the wall. Remove those.
Inside you will have to remove the wiring, disconnect the gas line after shutting off the tanks, and remove the furnace cover with the two snap locks. Behind the cover is a screw in the bottom right that holds the furnace innards in place. Remove that screw.
Now the furnace will side out of its housing.
The hose is on the back side between the motor housing and the combustion chamber.
I replaced mine with a high temp heater hose from Napa Auto supply. It's a very tight fit and a little tough to replace.
Another thing about CO detectors. On the package for mounting instructions it says to keep the detector 12 inches from any window, door, stove, exahust, vent, or heater outlet.
This is very difficult in a 23' trailer. So I ended up mounting my on the panel right next to the entrance door. It's less than 8" from the door opening. Any idea how much this will reduce it's effectiveness?
Tim,
On our '71 23' Safari, I mounted the CO detector at the top of the left door in front of the bath. That's about as far away from the stove and other items that I could.
Dan
Some of the folks contributing to this thread also participated in a November thread, Furnace safety. There are excellent points in each, so try reading them both.
Airstreamforums again prove a valuable service not available elsewhere! This is important for both vintage and new Airstream owners. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU to ANDY and all the MODERATORS!! (SCREAMING almost seems polite in this instance, dontcha think?)
I bought this Airstream about 6 years ago Love at first sight. I wasn't saying that though after the air conditioning shroud started falling apart the reefer vent as well the fan over the stove started acting up numerous plumbing jobs etc. etc. . Now after all my recent reading in these forums I have a bunch of new jobs lined up remove all the asbestos tile etc. etc. I was starting to get discouraged but now there is new light at the end of the tunnel. Thanx. I will pull the furnace in the spring and check it out. She is currently hibernating for the winter near Carleton place close to Ottawa on the Mississippi River (Canada)
If anyone thinks owning a 30+ year old trailer is a cake walk they have an awaking coming
I thought I was becoming on RV'er upon purchasing my trailer but instead I have become a restorer
In my case I knew what I was getting into as far as what would have to be replaced. But not to how extensive the repairs would have to be or how expensive. And I have done all the work myself.
I have tried to put on my website the work I have done, but it is not complete. You can check it here to get an idea.
In the end it is worth it to me. And now that the projects are winding down, I find myself with too much time
I doubt any RV place will service a 30+ year old furnace. Too much liability.
They will always opt to replace it, and they may be right.
New furnace is around $500 +installation.
Any work done on an AS is automatically at least 20% more than an SOB
I was trying to get camping world to do the free install of an air conditioner I bought as part of their permotion. Once I told them it was a 1971 Airstream, they were immediatly too busy and jumped at the option of reducing the price of the a/c the amount an installation would cost.
Most of the non airstream dealers don't like working on AS expecially older ones.
The water heater is cheaper. Only about $240 + install for the gas pilot model
Seriously, you can probably do much of the work yourself. Just take your time and tackle one thing at a time. Otherwise it's too overwhelming for anyone.
BTW- you may not want to mess with the furnace right away if you have other things to take care of. Like the fridge, water heater, plumbing, etc...
You can always get a small ceramic heater as long as you have electricity where ever you camp. That's what we have been doing and it heats up great.
We also have the heat strip in the A/C and that helps with the morning chill.
Back in February, I had my furnace on the bench addressing the necessary repairs noted earlier in this thread. The furnace itself appeared to operate just fine other than the pilot light blowing out when the main burner shut off. I attributed this to a bad regulator, and went about my business.
Well, since my new Fisher 966 LPG regulator did not solve the problem, I ended up pulling the furnace out this weekend to solve the problem. It appears that the pilot light jet was partially clogged although the jet looked clean. Suburban used a jet with two, incredibly small holes instead of one "big" hole. I removed the jet, soaked it in solvent, and blew it out with compressed air. The furnace works great now.
I post this primarily to warn people against doing what I set out to do, which was to adjust the amount of gas going to the pilot light - Clean the jet first.
Edit: If you would like more information on the crossover tube location, here's what to look for.
Tom
Last edited by TomW; 01-29-2005 at 08:26 AM.
Reason: Added link to more information
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