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Old 03-02-2016, 02:24 PM   #1
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Suburban Furnace Question: Not igniting

My new to me 83 Excella has an NT-30 M furnace. When I turn the switch on at the thermostat, the fan starts up and a few seconds I hear one click which I think is the solenoid opening. All good. But then I never hear any electrode clicks. I replaced the electrode but I don't hear it and of course all I get is cold air. Any thoughts? And shouldn't the unit shut itself down if it's not making heat?

The stove works fine so I assume I have adequate gas pressure.


Also, if I find it cheaper to replace than repair, will an NT-30 SP model line up with the existing vents?

Steve
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Old 03-02-2016, 02:36 PM   #2
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That is common when there is air in the line. If a tank was off the trailer and the regulator open to that tank air will get in the line. The stove has enough flow to purge itself but the heater does not.

What I do is crack the gas line at the heater just till you smell gas and retry.
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:23 PM   #3
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What Howie said. It can sometimes take a while for the gas to reach the appliance.
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Old 03-02-2016, 04:55 PM   #4
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Ok thanks will try that tomorrow.

Steve
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Old 03-02-2016, 05:00 PM   #5
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Did the 83 have an igniter? My 73 only has a pilot light.
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Old 03-02-2016, 05:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LY007 View Post
My new to me 83 Excella has an NT-30 M furnace. When I turn the switch on at the thermostat, the fan starts up and a few seconds I hear one click which I think is the solenoid opening. All good. But then I never hear any electrode clicks. I replaced the electrode but I don't hear it and of course all I get is cold air. Any thoughts? And shouldn't the unit shut itself down if it's not making heat?

The stove works fine so I assume I have adequate gas pressure.


Also, if I find it cheaper to replace than repair, will an NT-30 SP model line up with the existing vents?

Steve
I'm not trying to be a smart A@@ is the gas valve turned on ?
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:07 PM   #7
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low battery power can cause the same symptoms. That was my issue when my 86 did the same thing.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:34 PM   #8
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Gas valve on. Battery voltage 13.2.
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:52 AM   #9
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The instructions on my 85 were as follows with gas valve off turn on thermostat and let blower run for 5 minutes shut off ,turn on gas valve and turn thermostat back on for ignition .
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:48 PM   #10
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It's been a long time since I have had my Suburban out of the trailer for inspection but I do remember after experiencing the fan running a long time without ignition that there was a "flapper" or "damper" inside that got stuck because of sitting so long. I released it and lubed it and it worked. When it fell into correct position, it opened the valves to start. Maybe mine was older, but I believe it was the same model number.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:20 PM   #11
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I recently experienced a same described problem with the Suburban NT-30SP furnace in our 85 Airstream Sovereign. The furnace is about 13 years young and suddenly died during our travels. We were fortunate to locate an independent RV service center with a competent technician who corrected the problem in about two hours. The work was preceded by testing the propane water column, regulator, and available electric current (which were okay). Then came replacement of the “circuit board” with a Dinosaur Fan 50 Plus Pin igniter control board, and replacement of the non-functioning limit switch. Parts and labor totaled $281.00, and the furnace now keeps us toasty warm.

Our NT-SP30 furnace is located on the floor under the range oven. It must be removed from inside the trailer, as there is no exterior access door.

It is doubtful you need a new furnace - a pricy venture. The water column test will verify propane pressure making gas available to your multiple appliances.

Working with propane equipment is not a recommended DIY project for the average RVer like me. Stay warm and safe travels!
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:32 PM   #12
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There is a device inside the unit called a sail switch that checks to see that the blower is blowing air. Sometimes that sail switch goes bad or gets hung up with debris and does not allow the gas valve to open.

A friend with an older brandX motor home had a technician remove his Suburban and take it to the shop. Found a bad circuit board. Repaired it, bench tested it, re-installed it, and it still would not light. Technician removed it again, put it in his truck and started to go back to the shop, but did not. Technician came back to the coach and found that there was no gas at the pipe. He looked under the coach and found that someone had disconnected the line and plugged it off, Probably because they did not want gas supplied to a furnace which was not working. Gas line hooked up and all was well.

You never know what was done before you got your unit.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:18 PM   #13
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Ditto on the sail switch
I removed the heater on my 345
I did a little research here on this GREAT forum and bought a dinosaur circuit board and sail switch it now works great
Yes I had to disconnect everything and pull it out through the inside cabinet then remove the sheet metal cover as I remember the sail switch was a little hard to find / see
The good news is while the unit is out you can clean every thing up oil the motor and if I recall right you can even remove the motor brushes and clean up the amateur etc.
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:46 PM   #14
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Surburn heater won't light

I had the same problem and bought a new board and it worked one or two times and went back not lighting. First off make sure you have good voltage to the heater. Then what you hear clicking is the sail switch working when the blower gets up to speed. What mine was doing is the gas solenoids on the side of the heater were sticking and not opening when it called for gas. I disassembled it and cleaned. Now it works every time and I have a spare board.
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