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Old 02-01-2004, 07:06 PM   #15
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Sandi,

It sounds like you have one of three possible things wrong.
The simple one is how is your battery? If it too low it can cause this type of trouble since the fan will not get up to speed so the furnace will not light.
The second, but least likely is that the gas valve is failing. They rarely fail. This is the device that allows the gas to enter the furnace and then light.
The third, and most likely, is that the PC board in the furnace has started to fail. The replacement cost on the board is far less than a furnace costs new.
The board can be replaced by someone who is handy and comfortable around propane, but it is worth the cost of an RV place to give the furnace a complete inspection, especially if it is the original one. Remember an improperly working or installed furnace can kill you. Either with CO silently, or one big boom.
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by thenewkid64
Sandi,

The simple one is how is your battery? If it too low it can cause this type of trouble since the fan will not get up to speed so the furnace will not light.

NewKid,

Thanks for the reply. About the battery, would this be a problem if plugged in to power? Sure would be nice if it was as simple as that.

Debbie,

I intend to keep Chuck warm, don't you worry. He will certainly feel at home at the 'Barnyard'. I can't wait until the rally. You know this is my one year anniversary.

Thanks,

Sandi
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:09 PM   #17
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Smile

On an electronic ignition furnace (suburban) the blower will start before it ignites to clear the chamber of any accumulated gasses and after it has run a few seconds it will ignite and after reaching the temp the thermostat demands, the burner will shut down and the blower will run to cool the heat exchanger.

I ddon't know what happens with the pilot light types.
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:26 PM   #18
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My vote is: CHECK THE BATTERY!
We just completed our maiden voyage on Silver Belle, and everything was going great until we set up camp in Hendersonville, NC... snow on the ground, cold, windy, night-time forecast of 18 degrees! Three boys, a dog, everyone hungry and the darn furnace won't light! The LP regrigerator won't run, all the cabin lights are getting dimmer by the minute, and we're on shore power! What's up with that? Long story short... the GFI equipped circuit breaker for the 110VAC was staying permanently tripped and could not be reset. Bypassed the GFI portion of the breaker and everything started working! This was the breaker that feeds the 110VAC to 12VDC converter. With 12VDC now properly powered we had furnace, we had lights, we had joy, we had fun, we had seasons in the sun...
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Old 02-01-2004, 11:15 PM   #19
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Interestingly enough, tonight we unplugged the camper to move it and the furnace came on as it should when the unit cooled to the temp set on the thermostat. This happened while we were unplugged. I waited out there long enough for another cycle of getting warm, shutting off, getting cool and starting up again after we plugged back in and, knock on wood, it worked again. I am leaving it on tonight so the real test will be in the morning!!! Maybe it just didn't like where we had it parked. If that will fix it, I will move it permanently. Thanks for the advice and I will post what happens in the morning.

Sandi
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:39 PM   #20
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Unhappy

Oh well, that would have been too easy. It is still doing the same thing. I think it was a fluke that it worked once, just to get my hopes up. Guess I'll be calling the RV place in the morning to see if they can check it out on my way to the Barnyard Flea Market for the SC Coastal Unit 150 Rally. Come join us!
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:06 AM   #21
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One thing I have noticed with mine, Snadi, when it does what you are observing is this, the gas valve does not shut off all the way, and a little bit of gas leaks through the burner. Once enough gas leaks through, it ignites with a POOF!. This uses up all the oxygen in the combustion chamber, and extinguishes or blows out the pilot. I have noticed that this only occurs after the furnace has not been used for a few days, and I do not have the pilot running. After the unit has run through one heating cycle, it runs ok and will run ok for days. This, of course points back to the gas valve. I do not believe the gas valves are available for the older Suburban furnaces anymore. Only remedy is a new replacement, or finding another old unit with a known good gas valve.
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Old 02-18-2004, 11:58 AM   #22
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Isn't there also a mechanical device that is activated by the blower's airflow, and won't allow the gas to flow until the airflow is established? Maybe it is maladjusted, stuck, or otherwise disturbed. Mice, insects, who knows.
I am not sure if the later furnaces had this or not. I believe mine did.
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Old 02-18-2004, 01:57 PM   #23
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You are right Uwe, however if the gas valve itself is leaking......
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Old 02-18-2004, 02:51 PM   #24
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Sandi,
Check the Polarity of your 120v system.
Mine was reversed at a shore hook-up and that caused the furnace and the univolt to hiccup.
Dick.
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Old 02-18-2004, 08:55 PM   #25
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Temp. limit switch?

One other possibility, the temperature limiting switch. My switch was bad and allowed the unit to heat up the interior but when the thermostat told the fan to start up again, the fan would run and run because the circuit board had been overheated/damaged. Another new board was put in (unit overhauled 5 months prior) and a lower limiting switch put in. It solved the problem.
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:18 AM   #26
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Thanks

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to print them and look into each of them. I was camping for the last really cold week and had to use electric heaters because of the problem I have described. Keep your fingers crossed.

Thanks,

Sandi
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