The issue was only (3) wires going to the board, while the diagram shows (4) wires.
Factory technician says the spark cable to the electrode is the 4th wire and performs 2 functions; they are:
a) provide high vlotage to the igniter,
and
b) SENSE THE FLAME!
Not wishing to gamble on a new circuit board that may or may not have the 1 wire 2 function capability, I asked the Delaware Camping Center in Georgetown to fix the furnace.
The bill came to $437.78
The circuit board is Suburban part # 62345
Would have been cheaper to buy a new furnace.
Dick
Here's a company that sells all types of furnace boards, some with enhanced capability.
Free enterprise: any product that is overpriced will face competition. All types of boards
Nice reference on the furnace boards. A cold weather camper in Breckenridge this weekend would have been EXTREMELY happy to pay full price for a board if he could have found one. Minus temps are cold regardless of the magnitude. Sometimes a spare board for serious cold weather camping is worth the investment. Again, life is always relative to your location at any given time. Thanks
I thought my board was bad a couple of weeks ago - I got fan action, a nice spark but no "whoosh" - no gas making it to the burner.
I narrowed it down to the board or the gas valve. Went looking around Atlanta for a replacement board. Went to three RV dealers and none of them carry the Suburban board - they all stock the board from Dinosaur Electronics that Mark mentioned above. The dealers all claim the Dinosaur board is more robust and it comes with a three year warranty. The price at all three dealers was within a dollar or two of $125.00.
Fortunately, the third dealer I went to is a former Airstream dealer and they have always treated me well (shameless plug here for Three Way Campers in Kennesaw, GA). The parts guy suggested I bring my old board in first so he could test it. He had a tester (also from Dinosaur Electronics) that showed my board was working just fine.
I spent $103.00 for a new gas valve and an hour later I had heat. I'm glad the dealer suggested testing the board - he was the only one of three that offered the service. Had I bought the board first I would be out an additional $125.00, as none of the dealers would accept the return of an electronic part.
From what the dealer told me, most RV repair shops of any size should have a tester for furnace and fridge boards - so if you suspect yours is bad, ask if they can test if for you.
I have the same furnace. The circuit board was replaced, combustion chamber cleaned out and a new 12 volt motor put in for around $384 by an RV place near me. He was reasonable but I could have purchased a new unit then for around $450.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
I have to agree with HP9k about 3 Way Campers, our local dealer.
Their parts and service people will help you with any problem you might ask about. They tested the furnace board on my 1981 Excells a couple of years ago and I replaced it for a 100 or so bucks.
I just carried the board in and they tested it for free, but they did sell a board and I saved the cost of a technician doing the testing.
We have a new Airstream dealer in the Atlanta area now, but they don't even suspect what is going on in the RV world.
It is Atlanta Auto Brokers....They keep their displayed units locked all of the time and you can't even view them without having someone bring the key to open them. They also have no service facility that I have seen.
Also, folks, don't forget like I did that if you refill the propane tank, ya gotta bleed the lines at the stove first before anything else works! I learned the hard (and cold) way. Thought my furnace was bad, went to the RV mech, who ignited my stove, then did the same for the heater. He asked if I had just refilled propane
The easiest way to test a circuit board is to put a 12V test lamp on the gas valve + terminal to see if you have voltage when the thermostat calls for heat.
Dick