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Old 06-03-2014, 05:02 PM   #85
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I like the Climate Right idea as well, however I think their "capacity" numbers are assuming a well or at least moderately well insulated structure as I don't think there's anyway an 8,000 btu AC unit could cool a 2,200 cubic foot airstream . . .
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:58 PM   #86
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I might not know too much about split ac systems, but I can tell you that mounting anything on the rear bumper is not a good idea, especially a 70's vintage that has the smaller frame. Even if you counter balance the weight up front, it still puts extra stress on the frame aft of the axles and that is where the rear end separation often occurs.

Also, a 5000 btu unit will probably not come close to providing enough cooling. My new Dometic 13.5 btu struggles when the temps get up above 80. It's a big metal tube and while it can last almost forever, it also transfers quite a bit of heat to the interior.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:46 AM   #87
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Good Points

Good observations, both. I was concerned as well about the capacity since the roof top units start @ 13,500. Also I had concerns about using the rear bumper. Smokeless Joe mounted his compressor/heat pump on the tongue and I suppose that may be a better answer. I may just give up and look for the quietest 13,500 BTU, roof mount for my Minuet.

My concern is that there is not currently an AC in the mid trailer roof vent and I will need to confirm I have wiring available for an AC.

Thanks again for the responses

Greg
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:48 AM   #88
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Having spoken with the technician and the sales reps at Climate Right on the phone, the significant limitation with that system is that it is meant to be an outdoor unit. In other words, the main unit needs to stay outside of the structure of the trailer, essentially exposed to the elements in order to have the appropriate ventilation. Based upon their comments it would need to be on the bumper or front hitch. From my perspective, that creates another eyesore. They were very skeptical of the ability of the unit to perform with any kind of enclosure or shelter.

On the other hand, I think the 8000 BTU unit would work fine outside of the deep south and southwest in summertime for the smaller trailers, say 22 feet and below, in order to meet their guidance for the volume to be cooled with a comfortable margin.

Oh yes, I would love to hear the opinion of an HVAC expert on this, but I am super skeptical myself of any BTU rating for any system. How is it calculated? How is it standardized? They seem very inconsistent and some 13.5K BTU overhead units are definitely more equal than others. Do they just make thermodynamic calculations based upon the power draw?

YMMV of course.
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Old 06-08-2014, 02:06 AM   #89
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ok now i have a ton of reading to do, skimmed this thread, will reread all tomorrow when I'm not as tired, been using a residential window unit in my 71 Caravel for years, swore to myself that this summer that would end. i have done a ton of lightweight browsing about it last year. Thanks Matt for collecting so much info!

on the good side i have a inside length of only 14' or so to cool, down side is that i work at Burningman, so unforgiving desert living, desert sun and often needing to sleep off a grave shift in the mid day heat.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:57 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattB View Post
Having spoken with the technician and the sales reps at Climate Right on the phone, the significant limitation with that system is that it is meant to be an outdoor unit. In other words, the main unit needs to stay outside of the structure of the trailer, essentially exposed to the elements in order to have the appropriate ventilation. Based upon their comments it would need to be on the bumper or front hitch. From my perspective, that creates another eyesore. They were very skeptical of the ability of the unit to perform with any kind of enclosure or shelter.

On the other hand, I think the 8000 BTU unit would work fine outside of the deep south and southwest in summertime for the smaller trailers, say 22 feet and below, in order to meet their guidance for the volume to be cooled with a comfortable margin.

Oh yes, I would love to hear the opinion of an HVAC expert on this, but I am super skeptical myself of any BTU rating for any system. How is it calculated? How is it standardized? They seem very inconsistent and some 13.5K BTU overhead units are definitely more equal than others. Do they just make thermodynamic calculations based upon the power draw?

YMMV of course.
Matt

I agree with Climate Rites comments on ventilation.

Too many unknowns and variables to get much help from an HVAC expert.

I use my 5k AC unit to cool my 24 ft Tradewind. You can find my thread dated 8/1/2012 and photos in post #17. Now I am not saying that it cools the whole trailer, but it works for us. Actually in the last two years of camping we have not needed to install the AC as we have not needed it. I did install it and use it when I was working on the trailer at home and installed a new fridge last summer.

Some thoughts on camping and AC. We always try to camp in the shade. We usually camp in the mountains. We always try to camp with the trailer heading north. This way we get the morning sun on the awning side of the trailer and the trailer shields us sitting under the awning from the heat of the afternoon sun. We are not in the trailer during the day. However if we do need to be in the trailer during the day like for a grandchild to take a nap, we will close off the bathroom and the front of the trailer. The AC will only need to cool the middle section that only has about 40 sq. ft. I don't care how hot it is, my little 5k unit can cool 40 sq ft just fine. For sleeping at night it will cool the middle and front section just fine if we need to like when there are more people sleeping in the front living area.

My AC is 5k which is small because I want the ability to operate it using our 1k unit genny. If you have ac power or a larger genny than you can go to an 8k or larger window unit. The 5k works for us.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:05 PM   #91
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Here is the link to my thread: 5,000 btu/hr AC and a 1,000 watt genny.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...nny-91215.html

Photos of the install are in post # 15 and #17.

Dan
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:05 AM   #92
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Minuet Split System

For those of you that have actually installed a split system, what other brands have you used other than the LG used by Smokeless Joe. Taking the advice given so far on this thread, I would still like to pursue a split system for my Minuet 22. I would mount the compressor unit on the tongue and the inside unit above the front wrap windows, since there is no cabinet there. The challenge will be routing the umbilical cord to the compressor. With The Minute wrap windows, it seems my only option is outside the wall on the interior and then out to the compressor under the windows. The curtains would have the potential to shield most of the exposes line.

Comments?????

Greg
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:23 AM   #93
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I am using an 8000 BTU window unit to cool my 17 ft Bambi II. Even in the Texas heat it provides plenty of cooling power. I mount it in the rear window which puts it far enough away that it does not blow directly on us at the dinette or in the bed. The thermostat is built into the remote, which I can put wherever I like. Unit is relatively quiet, not visible from the front, and does not impair the aerodynamics or aesthetics of the trailer. The only minor downside is having to removing it for towing but I have the process down to under 5 minutes.
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Old 06-28-2014, 03:10 PM   #94
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could these ClimateRight units be maybe placed in a drawer that rolls out to the exterior of the trailer before use and rolls and latches back in for towing? i know that on a few vintage restorations, this option was used on a trailer and a residential AC unit was used. this seems pretty smart. not sure if it was already talked about in this tread and i missed it.

i certainly understand the need for ventilation, though in my case i usually feel like overhead shading on whatever ac unit unit would help things ,since the mid day sun in the Nevada desert as so brutal.

i have some external hatch doors that i got off of a matching year salvage trailer, one is the large enough to fit a ClimateRight CR8000 thru it on a roll out shelf of some sort. the flexible duct hoses would allow it to roll out to a ventilated position prior to running.

Has anyone heard any hints from the company about the dimensions of the 1200btu model? it is being described as a ductless spit, so may actually be set up unite different than the others they sell currently.
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:41 AM   #95
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Here is some information that may be helpful to Greg in post# 92, and Bob in 79/80, above:

Last month I stayed at a historic inn at Kingston, Ontario and noticed how the split air had been installed in this old building from 1854.

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Perhaps because they didn't want, or couldn't, drill into the 22" stone walls of the era they had run the lines on the surface, pretty nicely enclosed in a housing that I hadn't seen anywhere before.

This idea might be able to be adapted to the work you are thinking about.
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:52 AM   #96
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Thanks Serg,
Good to see what it might look like. I had given that some thought as a last resort. Unfortunately I had someone offer me so much for my Minuet 6.3 that I was going to install the split in, I had to let it go. AND today, my '73 Argosy 20 may go down the road to a happy buyer and I will be trailer-less. So the split will be on the table for an Airstream Safari, Globetrotter or Caravelle when I find the right one.......down the road.

Greg
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:54 AM   #97
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Just thought I'd add these guys to the list. It's certainly the first AC set up I've come across that doesn't need AC power, just 48 V DC from batteries or solar. I do like the idea of solar and some Lithium Ion cells running a slick Air Con set up and at the rate of my trailer rebuild it could even be affordable by then....kidding, I hope :-)

welcome to geinnovations.net
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Old 03-31-2015, 12:36 PM   #98
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Another solution

Did not want a roof mount in my 54 FC and split system is beyond my budget and skill set so I went another way. I mounted a "portable" A/C on a purpose built shelf in the wardrobe closet as high as it would go without hitting the curved wall. I connected the exhaust duct to the top of the fridge chimney and ran a condensate drain line out through the wheel well. I then cut a duct opening in the closet door (still tweaking that part as I need to add a seal to direct all the cold air out the duct). No real world testing yet and I imagine it will struggle in the height of summer but should be adequate 80-90% of the time.
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