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Old 05-23-2005, 10:33 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by mtpalms
The following post contains a link that will take you to a chart that shows what new fridge will replace an obsolete fridge. When you call Palomino, you get a person on the line who is knowlegeable and will be able to help you make an informed decision. If you can't find your model, the Dometic site also provide dimensions that might help figure out a good replacement.
MTPALMS,
Did you get your new fridge already?
Do you have it installed?
I am so glad that I found Palomino on eBay. It is the same way I found Family RV Center for the A/C units. They were not auctioning what I wanted so I emailed them and asked if they had any other models for sale. They gave me their 1-800 number and the rest is cheap DOmetic fridge history!
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Old 05-23-2005, 05:25 PM   #30
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Yes we got it, and yes it is installed. The only hitch is that my husband doesn't want to hook up the 12 volt for the ignitor until he can put a fuse in there, and we don't happen to have one lying around. No matter, the electric side works great. We aren't going to be able to go anywhere for a couple months anyway - drat work!

Next is the A/C. I've been shopping and right now it is between ppl and Family RV, but it will be a couple months until we can get it and install it, regardless of which one we pick. I mentioned in a previous post that I didn't save all that much on the fridge. They quoted me a higher price ($50) than they did Midamrail, and frieght cost $200 because of our location, even though I had it shipped to our business.
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Old 05-26-2005, 03:36 PM   #31
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fridge install

This is a very excellent and helpful thread. I'm looking for a fridge for our '64 Tradewind. The Dometic RM2510 is the top runner for several reasons (in addition to the fact that another '64 Tradewind owner bought one). And Palomino does rock on prices.

What does it take to install one? Are they pretty straight forward? The exhaust vent on my trailer is missing the lower 6 inches (otherwise in great shape). I'm wondering what are the requirements for hook up - does that vent normally attach to the fridge or is it primarily a heat vent so the rising hot air finds its own way?

Looking forward to having ice.
Thanks,
Drew
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Old 05-26-2005, 04:23 PM   #32
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I suspect your '64 has quite different cabintry than our '71, but anyway, the only real problem we encountered was a piece of metal/probably aluminum sheeting that was secured to the bottom of the credenza countertop that we simply could not get back in place without breaking the plastic reefer vent. As far as we could tell, its function (besides being a major frustration) is to deflect heat off the plastic vent. The exposed piping and heat sink on the top back of the fridge get pretty hot, and I suspect it could melt the vent or worse if allowed close contact.

We cut our own piece of metal and secured it into the place where the original should have been. It was either that or pull the unit, disassemble the cabinet, modify the offending piece, and put it all back again. Did I mention in a previous post that getting it all back together required copious grunting and squidging? So.

We did have to do some redrilling, but we didn't have to drill any new holes on the outside cabinetry. Whenever possible, we used the existing outside hole and redrilled to whatever we were securing to. This is quite a feat with with the tambour cabinet style models.

The PO of our trailer was drill and screw crazy. Thankfully he didn't make any interior 'improvements'. Every time a set screw starts coming loose on the outside, we take a moment to pull out the rivet gun and replace it with what should rightfully be there. Almost the entire rear - street side belly pan area is screwed - heh, heh - uh together. I don't know if it was a plumbing problem, or what, but it was an ugly patch job. I am very much opposed to indiscriminate hole drilling. Sometimes I look at what others have done to my baby and think, "Frankenstream".
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Old 05-26-2005, 05:34 PM   #33
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Sir Frankenstream ...

That is what my MH is turning out to be. Anytime i open things up for a small look see or repair, I see alot of screws rather than rivets, some in areas obviously not originally rivetted! Recently I've noticed a few rivets actually working their way loose. I'm tempted to replace with screws and loctite. Haven't decided yet. Since the subject of fridges here, mine rattles around so much that I think the po "installed" it himself and didn't really secure it very well. The wall next to it shakes alot especially over bumps, and the fire extinguisher has cracked the attachment clip from the wall. I have to put a towel in the side of the wall and the fridge so that it puts enough pressure to keep it from skaking so much. If I get my RM 3804 rebuilt, I'll have it professionally replaced in it's space so that it doesn,t move or make a sound as I roll!
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Old 05-26-2005, 07:26 PM   #34
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When we removed the RM60, it had some small blocks and strips of wood scewed into it, and the credenza walls were screwed into the strip. Same with the countertop, but a little more complicated. We took the strips and blocks off the RM60 and attached them to the new 2510. Obviously (to you and me anyway) any appliance should be firmly secured, especially a gas appliance! So we installed the new fridge exactly like the old one had been (it was factory installed, which helped).

We've had some loose rivets, and we just replaced them with same. Even if you use loctite or something like that, I think screws will work loose from vibration, because you are putting a screw in an existing hole without so much 'bite'. Also even stainless steel screws will corrode (probably that whole dissimilar metals thing). Almost all the scews on the exterior of our coach are discolored.
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:29 PM   #35
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Thumbs up Life span

How long will a fridge last?

Does keeping it on Help?

I was told that if possible leaving it plugged in on a low setting prologs its life span, I do and its always handy to keep extra beer cold when the house fridge is full.

Who has had a long lived fridge?
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Old 05-28-2005, 03:04 PM   #36
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Hi, campcollector,

The fridge in my Argosy is a RM75. It's been running since 1992. I had to replace a heating element shortly after I got it. The fridge in my new-to-me (3 months now) Excella is a RM100 and has been running since I got it. Of course, the heating element went out in the first week...

I think the best thing to do for them is to keep them powered and circulating. As far as I know, both fridges came with the trailers. The Argosy was made in Nov 74 and the Excella in Jan 79. By the way, an amonia cycle fridge is a DIRT simple device.
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Old 05-30-2005, 09:18 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campcollector
How long will a fridge last?

Does keeping it on Help?

I was told that if possible leaving it plugged in on a low setting prologs its life span, I do and its always handy to keep extra beer cold when the house fridge is full.

Who has had a long lived fridge?
The fridge in my Dad's 1973 ran right up until last summer when my brother-in-law pulled it out. He replaced it with a Dometic from Palomino Parts.
It was running when he pulled it. Some of you might say he is crazy but it was starting to show its age. It was not keeping things as cold as it used to and some of the plastic was getting brittle from age and temperature extremes. I would rather replace it now instead of having it go out on me while I am camping. Plus he saved a ton of cash on the replacement.
So, to answer your question; it went 31 years before it became apparent that it was dying. Could have monkeyed around and got it recored, etc... but then it had already served my Dad and my brother-in-law well.
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Old 06-14-2005, 12:16 PM   #38
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Carrier Low Profile

Just ordered a Carrier Low Profile 15000 BTU AC from Family Rv in Fla. Real good price. The 13500BTU is still a month out and will be limited supply. Fearful it will be too big but I can always leave the door open.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:31 PM   #39
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Just ordered a Carrier Low Profile 15000 BTU AC from Family Rv in Fla. Real good price. The 13500BTU is still a month out and will be limited supply. Fearful it will be too big but I can always leave the door open.
AWESOME!
I was gonna wait for the low profile but I got antsy!
Please let us know how it works. I am stoked about the Carrier Low Profile.
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Old 07-13-2005, 01:01 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattersontoo
Has anyone called Palomino Parts yet?
I am wanting to know how it went, you did?

They are an RV Manufacturer, and they wanted $850.00 for a RM 2820 that is a direct replacement for the RM 76. $800 for a model that was 2 inches taller, and $750.00 for RM 2652 that is 2 inches shorter.

I inquired about a stove too, and found that the stove oven combo was around $250, and the drop ins were around $150 (I did not have my model and serial number handy for exact replacement so these are general numbers).

They were very friendly and helpful, and If I had the $850.00 to invest right now, I would get it from them.
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Old 07-17-2005, 12:10 PM   #41
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http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...onditioner.htm

Coleman 13.5K unit for $375, valid until 7/22/05.
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Old 07-17-2005, 01:16 PM   #42
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http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...onditioner.htm

Coleman 13.5K unit for $375, valid until 7/22/05.
Awesome price.
I did notice that you have to pay an extra $60 for the lower unit so that puts it at $435 for the complete unit with no heat strip.
That is very comparable to the Carrier AirV.
I like the Colemans. That is all I had before the Carrier. They last forever!
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