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Old 05-15-2008, 04:10 PM   #15
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1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock , Arkansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
I would use a 15K unit on a 31' for sure. These units are made to fit into a standard 14 X 14" opening in the roof and they bolt thru this opening, joining the upper unit to a retaining frame inside the trailer at the ceiling.
Ditto on the 15K unit!
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Old 05-15-2008, 10:40 PM   #16
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1981 31' Excella II
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Would it be best to use RVP as to match up with the existing hardware/opening since it has the coleman mach I on it?
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj81excella
Would it be best to use RVP as to match up with the existing hardware/opening since it has the coleman mach I on it?
Probably easier, but given the existing wiring in place, a conversion to another brand should not be too difficult. All roof airs need 120VAC and a 12VDC feed, which you already have. The roof opening is a standard 14 X 14" size and unless you have a remote thermosat, you should be good to go with whatever you choose.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:22 AM   #18
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1971 23' Safari
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Lewster, we're changing out our Armstrong TR21-12 Baybreeze with a Duotherm Briskair 13.5. on our '71 23' Safari LY. Just dropped lower unit and pulled like 65 pop rivets on top. Now we have to gently remove from roof for cannabilisation. Rigging up the supports before we take it to Tyler RV near us for install next. Time and energy is running out. Any tips from this point would be greatly appreciated.
Charlie
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pansy
Lewster, we're changing out our Armstrong TR21-12 Baybreeze with a Duotherm Briskair 13.5. on our '71 23' Safari LY. Just dropped lower unit and pulled like 65 pop rivets on top. Now we have to gently remove from roof for cannabilisation. Rigging up the supports before we take it to Tyler RV near us for install next. Time and energy is running out. Any tips from this point would be greatly appreciated.
Charlie
Last time I took off a Bay Breeze, here was no charge left in it, so I cut into pieces (they ARE heavy!!) at the roof and gently removed them. If your unit still has refrigerant in it, it should be evacuated first before you start to dismantle the unit, as any release of CFC or HCFC containing refrigerants is a violation of federal EPA regulations.

Any properly equipped domestic A/C guy can do this for you. If you have a scaffold and can slide the entire unit on to it and get down, it will be much easier.

Be sure that the 14 X 14 opening at the roof is braced between the inner and outer skins with 2 X 2 aluminum 'U-channel'. You can rivet this onto the inner skin to provide a nice base for your new unit. This procedure has been discussed before in these Forums if you need more detail and a few photos.
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Old 05-16-2008, 01:59 PM   #20
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removal AC Armstrong

Thanks Lewster. Getting her down is the problem. I'd like to keep it as one unit for others who may want to trade out parts for sumthin' or just give away locally to some members here.Think I'll try the ladder tec posted here by someone (sorry I've slept since then) can't remember who. My only thought is how to wrap, perhaps in blanket, then secure with ratchet straps, tie on lowering rope, turn on flattest side, and slide down laddie that is fully extended; with the help of a friend. Gotta have air by the 28th. That's our projected launch date for first short trip with our cutie Air.
Charlie
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Old 05-16-2008, 03:55 PM   #21
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Pansy
why don't you get Tyler RV to remove the old unit?
But telll them you don't want it tossed down. If they were smart they would save it for parts too. But with copper and aluminum so high everybody is scrapping everything these days.
I absolutely think you are doing the right thing to try to salvage it.
There is no need to evac the freon unless your local trash pickup demands it before they will carry it away. But You are not gonna put it in the trash.

Is the shroud still usable? That is a $225 dollar item itself. Even if cracked it can be re-done. (There is a thread on this forum somewhaere about doing just that).

Also the inside console and register(s) is irreplaceable, so take care of that no matter what shape it is in. Even if you have to toss the unit save the plastic parts. They might sell on eBay, but they are small enough you could ship them.

I need a model 25-14 CWC L-57 (Bay Breeze) so your model is a little older than mine. If I was near I would still come get it, but have not been to Tyler area in many a moon.
I do think we are going to Rusk or Palestine to ride the Texas State Railroad this summer though. Probably in June, but I won't be in a truckthat trip.
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:14 PM   #22
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Lotsa work for nothing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pansy
... Just dropped lower unit and pulled like 65 pop rivets on top. ...
Ya know, I've read about similar amounts of rivets to be removed to get a unit off of the roof. Sealing the holes left by all those rivets is part of what encouraged me to keep my Bay Breeze running instead of replacing it.

But, I had a chance to explore how these remarkable units were mounted in 1967 when my Overlander had a leak that HAD to be coming from the air conditioner.

While a plethora of bucked rivets are evident after the shroud is removed, it became obvious that those rivets do nothing more than hold the upper unit together. I.e. the rivets were bucked before the unit ever saw the Airstream.

My roof-top unit is affixed by four or five sheet metal screws running on the port & starboard sides, and three screws underneath the fan motor.

So, if I wanted to remove my roof-top unit, I would only need to remove 13 or so sheet metal screw AFTER the Freon & electrical lines were disconnected.

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Old 05-16-2008, 09:17 PM   #23
Charlie & Carolyn
 
1971 23' Safari
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Distantdrummer,
I did ask Tyler RV to remove and be gentle with Armstrong to preserve the gold in them thar parts, but I dunno if I can trust 'em. I also was afraid to let them build support for the Dometic. Err 65 per/hr. and my time is free undoubtedly.
On the shrould I used Tomw's thread and others tips on reconstructing it. Spent untold hours with fiberglass sheeting and ABS cement to repair. Then used Krylon Fusion in hammered grey I think inside and out. I'm no body man, but I think she looks great for an amateurish attempt, at least from ground level. I was so determined to salvage her I did that first. Doh again. Found a burnt start cap. and adjustable potential relay from Grainger in upper control box,and an associate charged her with R22. All gone now, plus he bipassed what he called a thermal overload switch bolted to comp. Looks like there's a hole in outer shell of comp. also where he bipassed said piece where these (2 items were) but I'm no HVAC guy either. So I suspect maybe the compressor may be the culprit. Hence my decision to replace with Dometic 13.5 with drain kit. She may still be sitting here if you do come to the Palestine Railroad. Just about a 35 mile ride from our house. Can't promise though.
TomW,
I love your blogs on your restore. Most complete I've seen and so helpful. Later I hope to photo spot my dissection and transplant if I can. Yah, I'm dreading sealing those rivets with Parbond or Vulkem and popping new rivets, then globbing more Vulkem over that. So far the only sealant on this part was Butyl tape with a trace of Vulkem in spots. Heat gun and voila.These rivets were just 1/8 " pop rivets though.Mine had four mounting bolts that came off easily from inside unit. Still haven't tried to budge her up and out though.
I found two spots on dividing line of shell at apex with what appears to be a hairline crack from metal fatigue on fore and aft near where shrould meets top of trailer.
Sheesh my fingies are cramping.
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