Removing a/c unit from my 1971 Sovereign

[JKnight]

I recently purchased a new a/c unit. I removed my original a/c cover and found that the a/c is different looking than what I was expecting. It appears to have approx a gallon of epoxy around the edges and is anchored down by numerous screws. The a/c unit appears to be original as does the epoxy.

There are also aluminum shrouds that the old cover mounted to. Do these come off???

Any ideas on how to remove this epoxy????

It's hot in Dallas, I need a/c.

[Dave Park]

Use a knife to *carefully* cut channels into the epoxy, then use a gallon or two of Jasco paint and epoxy remover. Remember, if you have a clearcoat it'll remove that too. Once you've removed what you can, with gloves, put as much of the epoxy remover in there to soften the epoxy, wrap in aluminum foil and keep shaded, so it can soften some more, then try easing the base panel off.

Once you get the panel off, use yet more epoxy remover to completely clean the surface.

Don't get electrocuted. Remove the A/C breaker.

[JKnight]

Underneath the epoxy am I seeing the screws that hold the unit on or is that something else?

Thanks

[Splitrock]

This thread,

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f478...oof-66345.html

And the blog titled air conditioner:

Air conditioner - Airstream Forums

shows what I found when replacing my air conditioner on my 76 Sovereign.




The old Vulkem came off easily with a heat gun and a sharp putty knife. Below the Vulkem was just a bunch of screws. They all came right out except one that I had to drill the head off of. I just scraped the surface after I got the old AC out and washed it with acetone.

[azflycaster]

On my 75 TW there were around 40 screws holding the drip pan and unit to the roof. Mine were covered with several tubes of vulkem. All of the sealant needs to be removed as well as the screws. The old unit should lift off the roof once everything is removed. I used olympic rivets to fill the old screw holes. A 14" x 14" reinforced hole is all you want when putting the new unit on.

[JKnight]

I appreciate your help. What about the fins that the shroud screwed to? Do they unscrew and are able to be taken off?

Mine looks like your plus the epoxy.

Thanks, Judd

[JKnight]

I see your from Texas. Do you have any contacts for polishing an Airstream. I just east of Dallas and have had no luck with finding someone.

Thanks, Judd

Originally Posted by Dave Park

Use a knife to *carefully* cut channels into the epoxy, then use a gallon or two of Jasco paint and epoxy remover. Remember, if you have a clearcoat it'll remove that too. Once you've removed what you can, with gloves, put as much of the epoxy remover in there to soften the epoxy, wrap in aluminum foil and keep shaded, so it can soften some more, then try easing the base panel off.

Once you get the panel off, use yet more epoxy remover to completely clean the surface.

Don't get electrocuted. Remove the A/C breaker.

[Splitrock]

I heated the old Vulkem with my electric heat gun, removed the screws, picked up the old air conditioner and sat it on the scaffold deck and it all looked just like this:





This is just how it looked before I cleaned up the Vulkem line and plugged the screw holes. Notice the old air conditioner left picture. The shiny aluminum is where the old air conditioner sat. The hole was there and it wasn't a big deal to remove, clean up, or install the new air conditioner. I did it all alone except for when my son helped me set the old unit in the loader bucket.

The new one is a 13.5 and it makes it so cold on a 95 degree day that I could hang meat in there.

Gary

[JKnight]

Okay guys the old unit is off and I hope to have the the unit cleaned and the new one installed tomorrow night. The new one just bolts to the the inside part of the unit. Only 4 bolts??? I guess back in the day more was better.......

Thanks for all the help

[Splitrock]

The original hole on mine was unsupported. For the gasket to compress and seal on the new unit I framed the existing hole on three sides back to the first rear rib. I reinforced with 1 1/2" dried untreated ribs and cross supports. I cut the ribs to the profile of the old air conditioner trim. They were 1 3/4" thick and 20" long. I installed three hoops and two lateral roof supports, so the roof is supported back to the first body rib behind the air conditioner. From the top, the body has a nice visual radius under the new unit.

There were just 4 bolts to draw the gasket down on the new unit.

[Dave Park]

Originally Posted by JKnight

I see your from Texas. Do you have any contacts for polishing an Airstream. I just east of Dallas and have had no luck with finding someone.

Thanks, Judd

There's someone who posts regularly of their Airstream polish service on Austin craigslist - they may well be willing to travel. I would even be interested myself, but my polishing is merely acceptable and I wouldn't feel right charging - it's a real skill and I truly appreciate the quality and technique of the skilled workers...

[JKnight]

Okay, What are you calling the untreated dry ribs? What material are you using, wood, steel, aluminum, etc?

I noticed on mine it seemed to be weak around the hole. is this normal or do folks just typically bolt it down with the 4 bolts and role on?

Thanks, Judd

[azflycaster]

If you try and bolt it down without support, the skins will buckle and deform. This will most likely leak and not sit level.

On my unit Zep (Roger) cut some wood strips to match the curve skin around the hole. The strips were the same shape and size of the gap between the inner and outer skins and about 2" in width. These 4 pieces of hardwood were then screwed in place from the top and the bottom skins. With these in place you have a very solid area to mount the new unit on. Two holes were then drilled into the wooden frame to allow the power and drip line connection to be attached.

[Splitrock]

Untreated kiln dried wood.

[adwriter73]

Originally Posted by JKnight

I see your from Texas. Do you have any contacts for polishing an Airstream. I just east of Dallas and have had no luck with finding someone.

Thanks, Judd

There is a thread on here titled "$600 polishing job". Here is the contact for the company the guy used. They polish 18-wheeler tanks...
Xtreme Big Rig Mobile & Detailing 308 S Saginaw Blvd 76179, John 817 706 4351.

[JKnight]

Have you seen them polish AirStreams before? Thats sure sounds cheap.

Thanks

[JKnight]

Basically your saying frame the 14" hole in between the 2 sheets of metal and there is no need to support it back to the supports?

Wondering what kind of wood as well. I have never heard of dried kiln before. I assume thats not something you can get at the local Home Depot?

[Dave Park]

You'll find kiln dried wood everywhere - it's a very standard way of removing moisture to "quick season" the wood. It's still good to let it sit with good ventilation for a while to season nicely before working with it.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by JKnight

Basically your saying frame the 14" hole in between the 2 sheets of metal and there is no need to support it back to the supports?

Wondering what kind of wood as well. I have never heard of dried kiln before. I assume thats not something you can get at the local Home Depot?

The opening for my OEM air conditioner was pretty close behind a center rib but the rear rib was about 20" behind the rear of the opening. I built a support frame and slid it all the way back to the rear rib. That way the pads are supported as well as the gasket. After I got the frame installed where I wanted it, I screwed it from below through the inside skin so it wouldn't move.

The wood I used was kiln dried and then air dried to about 8%. I didn't use treated wood because the treatment chemicals are corrosive.